RB240zDET

Wow. Good little video. Guy had a pretty bad wreck in the end when he flipped the car.

Is this a z31 or z32? If it is a z31 you are looking for a turbo model for the axles

I had them make and use all brand new parts so it was a little pricey. But all said and done 300 dollars. But they used serviceable joints, brand new slip yoke and beefier and stronger joints all around. They called it their racing/drifting shaft and they rated the shaft for 1000hp. Overall I am more then happy and they had my driveshaft done in an hour...

Ah. Looked familiar to me. Good job on the install. Looks clean and factory.

Thank you!!! Exactly what I was looking for. Exactly what I am wanting to do as well...

Is that the Z32 rear aluminum knuckles?

I don't think entirely. I just tested it and gave positive rep to another member just fine. But when I tried earlier today to give positive rep to a specific member I got the error.

I am having errors/issues leaving fellow members positive reputation. This is also happening to other members as they have PM'ed stating the same issue when trying to leave me positive reputation. When I try to leave positive rep I get a error message stating 'Action failed: You have reached your quota of positive votes for the day', this has happened on days when I haven't even been on the site for a day or two. How could I reach my quota for the day when I haven't given anyone any rep for that day or been online?

I have seen all of the mentioned ideas above. They all look amazing if done properly. If you are wanting a quick fix then do not expect it to look factory or amazing. If you take your time then it will turn out amazing. If I had a stock dash I would consider the foam idea and just take my time and do it right the first time. I have since made a custom aluminum dash for my datsun. Whatever you choose just take your time and do what you want to do and don't be afraid to experiment.

This. Also a driveshaft that does not have proper play/spacing will mess your transmission. I would highly suggest going to a custom/special driveshaft shop and having a custom made shaft. They know everything needed in a proper driveshaft. I had a custom one made for my track 280z and it is flawless.

Has anyone tubed their front end on their Datsun? I am considering this on my track 280z. I am wondering what all you removed from the front end and replaced with tubing. I am thinking cutting right in front of the shock tower down to the frame rail and stripping all the metal forward off. As I am going to use hood pin/latches to secure the hood I wont need any of the wheel well area for the stock hood hinges. I also am thinking of retaining the lower core support although I could remove that and weld in a straight rectangular bar to tie the left and right side frame rail into each other.

Yes. Holds it in just fine. Good enough hold to keep it in yet not permanent so you can remove it later for whatever reason needed.

If you make me a CAD file I can have a custom bracket custom laser cut for you...

Looking good. When I remove my rb20det engine setup and put my VK56 in I am going to tube the front end and reinforce the entire engine bay and tie it into my chassis.

Anyone?

I used RTV sealant. If in the case that I had to remove them again and Rechrome them I could easily remove the trim from the surrounding light housing.

So my brake setup is as follows, My entire rear subframe is from a Skyline R33 GTS and my entire front suspension is out of the Lexus SC400. So up front I have the huge Lexus SC400 brakes and in the rear are the Skyline/Z32 rear calipers. I know the fronts I will eventually buy a wilwood BBK for and will be fine with that. My question is Brembo made a upgraded R33 entire brake kit. Do I really need that much rear end braking? Or is it one of those I will be fine with the stock rear calipers?

Not a matter of torque to yield. My point is any time you torque a bolt down you are theoretically stretching the bolt to achieve the desired torque setting. It may be minimal but my point is on something that is as essential to an engine as a head stud, main stud, rod bolts, etc you should not really reuse any of the original hardware.

It being a major basket case. Where the PO has screwed everything up, cut wires, removed relays and other such stuff. Not saying its a bad deal. But I already have a major project with my 280z and at this point I feel skeptical about a car that the PO knows nothing about. Might mean he has done some of the mentioned things above. Also I continued to contact this guy and asked if he had the PO's info so I could get any information at all and he stated that even the PO to him knows nothing.

Well good luck...

Why a 240 over a 260/280z? The 240 is older and more likely to have more rust then the later 260/280z models. Furthermore they are the same body style only subtle differences as in the bumpers, front turn signals and rear tail lights...

I have texted the owner and he seems like a idiot. Says he bought the car and knows nothing about it. I am wanting it to fix up as a little run around town s30 as I am building my 280z for the track. Not sure I want to jump into a project with a previous owner who knows nothing about cars and could have just messed up a lot of stuff.

I need to post pictures of my fender mirrors. I had my friend make me some carbon fiber race mirrors and mounted them on my fenders. They look really good actually and I can't complain about them one bit.

Sell some Z parts then. Do what you gotta do, but honestly do not risk throwing all that money down the drain on reusing old main studs.

Looking for Boost/Vac autometer gauge, Fuel pressure, Oil pressure. All electrical if possible. Also would like to have everything needed for the gauges to work. I.E.-sender, adapters if necessary, etc. Also if you have a wideband that would be icing on the cake. Let me know what you have. Thanks