torynich

If you are only going to run them on the street do you absolutely have to shave and heat cycle them?

All this talk is for steel fenders, I am thinking that I would like to go with fiberglass fenders in order to cut down on the possibility of corrosion down the road. Is there a good fiberglass fender available or am I worrying about corrosion needlessly (I already know the weight savings are negligible)? Tory

also make sure you mounted your calipers on the correct side so the bleeder is on top so you can actually get all the air out of it.

Heres my situation: my front flares at the forward edge drop down past the top of my MSA type 2 front airdam. The flares curve inward too much to keep them on the outside of the dam and pop the airdam out too much to just tuck them underneath. So this leaves me with cutting them off at the airdam/fender junction. I have not worked with fiberglass before. Can I just cut the tips off with my diegrinder cutoff wheel and sand the edge down or is there a special procedure? Did anyone else run into this and what did you do about it? As a side note, I thought all fiberglass was grey, why are these black?

www.ezaccessory.com 4 lug 4.5" to 5 lug 4.5" 2" thick $129/pair Buy the lug nuts at the same time and save on shipping or you will be ordering them later after finding out what the auto parts stores are asking for them (I learn the hard way some times). They are pretty nice. i did have to enlarge the center hole on the fronts just a tad. I powdercoated them semi gloss black so they wouldnt stand out as much since you can see everything through these wheels.

I have 2" 4 lug to 5 lug adapters on it now (cheap and easy untill I can afford to do the full conversion to 5 lug) and the rears stick out about 1.5". I should be receiving my ZG flares today so we'll see how it looks with this set up. I will measure the backspace when I remove the wheels next, but I dont think stock 18X9 cobra rims will look right on a YZ flare. To get them out far enough you would have to go with an extremely thick spacer. Ask Rick Bowers what he did, his looks great.

Thanks Rick

Has anyone come up with a nice looking way to put headlights into the 280YZ front end? I like what Rick Bowers did, but I was wondering if anyone else did something different. I have seen the square headlights in the grill cutout and that is not the look I am going for.

Maybe I looked in the wrong section, but Summit wants $89.95 and MSA only wants $69.95

Go to: http://flickr.com/photos/42511247@N00/?saved=1 18"x9" 1999 Mustang Cobra rims. 275-40 rear, 245-40 front. Just a trial fit right now cuz I still need to do a 5 lug conversion. Stock suspension with Tokicos all the way around. Close to the strut, but with creative spacing, looks like I could probably get away with som ZG flares, but I am leaning toward spacing them out a little more and going 280 YZ rear with Subtle Z front. What do ya think?

How are you supposed to aim the generators? Straight or angled? Also, what is the optimal spacing between each generator? Or is all of this talked about in the wind tunnel thread?

Whats up with the bottom of the F22? Looks like something is missing

I got the chance to see the B-2 do a fly-by at an airshow in Las Vegas. Absolutelly amazing!! Almost completely silent and so huge...it looked like a UFO just floating lazily by.

That looks really really good!!! What you should think about doing is setting up a light in your engine compartment with a switch on the dash so you can energize the glow in the dark and be able to pop your hood whenever you feel like it at night and have it glowing.

I powdercoat over chrome all the time also. Maybe it was just that shops preference not to. Like Cruez says though, powdering transclucents over chrome is the best way to get a really deep shine. You can do any powder color you want though over chrome. They did a good job on covering the entire wheel, I have seen the cheaper guys do just the front face.

Yea, but, once again, it wasn't the spacers fault, it was the idiot who put it on. If you install it right (and use an actual spacer, not lug nuts) you shouldnt have a problem.

"Only thing I would cad/zinc plate is brake components, due to operating temps. - Greg -" Actually, for a daily driver, regular powdercoat will work just fine for any brake part. Where you might run into problems is on a track car where you use the brakes hard and for long durations. Even then there is high temp powdercoat that will withstand 1000F. Most of the high temp powder is black, silver, or grey; but I have seen Eastwood also carries orange and blue. I just dont like the Eastwood powder quality so I cant endorse it. Tory

I think the problem is the width of the fade...you have it too tall. If you look at the mako, just the very bottom 2 inches...3 with the fade are colored. My personal opinion for a fade is it should be closer in color match, not a contrasting color. 9 times out of 10 it still looks bad. Just an opinion.