Matt Cramer

Tuners in the Atlanta area that we often work with would be Doug Wilkes at DBW Motorsports, or Arif Hossein at YAI Racing. There's also Zen Motors in Suwanee.

The MAP sensor isn't the only thing giving weird readings - there are massive battery voltage spikes too. Where exactly is the relay board grounded, and are you using high or low impedance injectors?

Can you post up your MSQ and a tooth log of the loss of sync?

It's losing RPM sync. Can you capture the RPM problem in a tooth log?

Data logging is pretty straightforward: To get a data log, go to the Data Logging menu and click Start Logging. You will be prompted for a file name. The log starts when you save the file (this is an easy one to get tripped up on as a lot of people expect saving the file to be what you do at the end of the log). Once you have recorded what you need, go to the Data Logging Menu and click Stop. If you want a video, though, check out Andy Whittle's How EFI Works channel on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeqAzDNOeaI

Got a data log of this? It could be the ECU is losing the RPM input.

It uses 29 bit CAN in the MegaSquirt version. At this point, I believe it only receives data from one device on the line - but if the MegaSquirt can read the 11 bit CAN and retransmit on the 29 bit CAN, that would be a workable option.

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The block or head can be an acceptable second choice, but sheet metal grounds are generally terrible. Grounding the ECU to the battery cuts out any potential for voltage drops with the block to battery ground. I have not seen the starter cause a voltage spike that would be a problem with grounding the ECU to the battery but not the block.

In my experience, good chassis grounds are usually bad, and bad chassis grounds are horrible. A chassis ground may look like a nice thick piece of metal running straight to the battery. But in practice, there's often a fair amount of rust, spot welds with poor contacts, and possibly sections where the current is trying to get through paint and rusty screws in the path of current that you try running through the chassis. So grounding the ECU to the battery is the best option for grounding.

Try grounding the MS directly to the battery. Chassis grounds often tend to have noise issues.

Could be the solenoid is failing mechanically, but it might respond well to a bit of machine oil in all the ports. I've seen times where they "stick" and some oil frees them up.

You can use the tooth logger feature to watch the signal coming in. See this link for how it works:

The mods in that picture are set up for D14 spark output. Please be sure your tune is configured to match.