Jump to content
HybridZ

Matt Cramer

Members
  • Posts

    860
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Matt Cramer

  1. You can either use resistors or PWM current limiting. And you absolutely must get an RPM signal while cranking first - until you get this, you won't see either ignition or fuel.
  2. Ok, so at this point are you getting a clear RPM signal?
  3. I'd fix the two issues you mentioned with the mismatched injectors and the broken coolant temperature sensor. Both of these are going to make tuning the car to start correctly in cold weather somewhere between a royal pain and impossible. If you can get all the non-turbo injectors on one bank and all the turbo injectors on the other, you might be able to trick it using the dual table option, but any way you look at it, you're in for a headache with this.
  4. You may want to try a smaller resistor for the pull-up in this case. If you *slowly* turn the distributor by hand, what is the most and least voltage you see?
  5. Unless the firmware is corrupted, the relay should not shut off entirely. Does the fuel pump LED work on the Stimulator?
  6. Take the distributor out and rotate it by hand, with the key on, while checking the voltage at the relay board's Tach terminal. It should go from 0 to 12 volts and back again. Let me know what you find. Also, you might want to pull the fuel injector fuses when doing this test.
  7. Ok, you're going to need to get an RPM signal first. Can you get RPM on the Stimulator?
  8. Do you see RPM in MegaTune when you crank the engine?
  9. Temperature sensor tables are not back-up-able in MS2, unfortunately.
  10. I noticed you have a very noisy battery voltage graph; it's dipping and spiking all over the place. This can cause all sorts of weirdness. Try putting a car stereo noise filter on your power supply line and see if that helps.
  11. Try using the Stimulator and check if the injector LEDs on it blink. Let us know what you find there.
  12. Could you post the complete log and MSQ file? Chances are there are a couple other clues about what is going on, hidden in the log file somewhere. If you upload them, I'll have a look.
  13. Sounds like a classic case of spark blowout to me, too. What are you running for igntion?
  14. You have an MS-II V3.0. Not sure what ignition mods it may have.
  15. How exactly is the USB cable set up? I have seen one weird case where attaching the USB adapter to the Megasquirt directly had issues with EMI from the Megasquirt and made the adapter flake out - putting a straight through DB9 cable between the adapter and MS fixed this. More commonly, I've seen the USB adapter plugged in without its extension causing the adapter to wiggle around in the socket and come unplugged briefly, which also causes the tuning program to freeze.
  16. What Stim version do you have, and what RPM input mods? You mentioned a COP setup - will you be using a missing tooth wheel or something?
  17. I'd see if the cranking pulse width settings are off. Also check your timing to be sure it hasn't moved somehow, as this can often cause the kick-back sort of problems.
  18. The components on the relay board are fairly weather resistant - not 100% waterproof, but about as water resistant as most other underhood parts. One thing Bowling & Grippo were concerned about with plugging the relay board into the MS directly was vibration damage from having the two PCBs directly connected through a rigid coupling.
  19. First, pull out some cranking pulse width - it sounds like the car you took the MSQ from wasn't identical after all. Does it not catch at all, or catch but then stall a few seconds later?
  20. The first time I saw the pressures these things ran at, I really did a double take. That pressure is higher than the breaking strength of most aluminum alloys. The first version of the Megasquirt-III will be sequential but not coded for direct injection. It's possible that a future code release may give it that capability.
  21. They are inline, and the one I have cost about $10 so I suspect we're looking at the same part.
  22. They may run at a higher voltage than what normal solenoid injector drivers are meant to run, and the code would need to be written specifically for direct injection. I know with diesel versions they often use multiple injection events for each combustion cycle. The timing requirements are pretty complicated. Right now you'd probably be looking more at the Motec end of the ECU spectrum to control this.
  23. BRAAP is right on the money with the plugs - fix that first. You don't want non-resistor plugs with a MS - or any other EFI, for that matter. I picked up my stereo noise filter at AutoZone (or maybe it was Advance - one of the cheap parts stores that starts with an A) in the cheap car stereo installation parts section.
  24. It's definitely resets and they show up as such in the data log. First thing I would try is putting a stereo noise filter on the 12 volt supply line.
  25. Not necessarily. Some people use it to blow any air out of the lines and others use it like a small shot of starting fluid. It can take some trial and error to get it adjusted, but in your case I'd start by adjusting the cranking pulse.
×
×
  • Create New...