Matt Cramer

If you're not controlling it, set no spark outputs and no ignition options. If you're using it as a coil driver, set it for MSnS-E distributor mode and one spark output.

Reset codes are only a problem if they happen when you don't turn the Megasquirt on. Because they happen with noisy signals, a lot of people talk about eliminating resets. But the reset you get when you switch the Megasquirt on the first time is the one that's supposed to happen.

Could be a lot of things. First check your timing. If that's OK, then you'll probably need to adjust the cranking pulse width. See if your plugs look wet - if that's the case you probably have too much pulse width.

The kit comes with B&G base code. For spark, you need to install MS1/Extra.

I've seen a few MS-friendly discs that fit into the RB CAS, but they were all aftermarket bits. We've been looking into building a CAS mod package of our own but it's had a couple production tie-ups so it will be a while before they're out.

Check the TPS with an ohmmeter. I know a lot of the early Bosch L-Jetronics did not use a variable TPS.

Precisely. When you are using an EDIS setup, the Megasquirt never "sees" the signal from the toothed wheel. Set the trigger teeth number to zero.

I'm not sure on the TPS but it looks like you've got the right idea. Except you're only using the Injector 2 driver. You should have half the injectors on pins 32-33 (doubled up) and the other half on 34-35.

36 degrees of timing at 240 kPa? That other timing table will be a lot safer. There's a pretty good basic tuning guide for the MS at this link: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm You may also want to go over the MS1/Extra tuning manual. It has some other useful tips not in the main one, just keep in mind that it's software specific and several of the settings do not apply to MS2 which you appear to be running. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm

That's more like it.

When the Megasquirt shuts off, it can sometimes leave the injector drivers on instead of off. It was designed for the injectors to be powered from the same point as the Megasquirt, and wiring it up otherwise can damage your injector drivers or leave the injectors on when you turn off the engine and flood it.

I'd recommend swapping in the turbo distributor now, as this makes spark control a lot easier. Other than that, you can use the same sensors for both applications.

If that's like a dual coil Mopar distributor, you have to lock out the advance mechanism and use just one coil.

Yes. You can copy the VE, spark, and AFR target tables with the export function, but the rest of the MSQ must be copied by hand.

No. Megasquirts store settings in flash memory and save them when they are powered off, which is a bit different from many stock ECUs.

There is no power-on light on the Megasquirt. The LEDs can be programmed to do a variety of tasks, but normally none of them switch on until you have an RPM reading.

The MSD will give a more powerful spark; a VB921 is kind of like a middle of the road stock ignition module.

I see that Justin (he posts here as jxw) has answered your email this morning. The board does need a few mods for a L28ET, but we can add them before shipping by special order.

It won't stop you from getting a spark, but the Megasquirt generally doesn't like it. The electrical noise interferes with the Megasquirt's sensors.

The only major concern I'd see is that the relay board itself is not designed for the kind of current a fan draws. You'd need to use the FIDLE relay to activate a second off-the-board relay for the fan.

This is simply for noise suppression. A bad condensor would cause resets and noisy sensor readings but not kill the spark. It would also make for a noisy radio - that is the original reason they were installed back when cars had no digital electronics.

Interesting. Retarding the timing too much causes the fuel to burn in the exhaust manifold, sort of like an anti-lag setup (well, exactly like certain anti-lag setups).

With a relay board, the spark output comes out on pin S5. Most commercial relay cables have a wire for this. Some of the homemade relay cables do not have this wire as older directions said to leave it out.

It looks like the biggest problem is too much cranking pulse width.

The stock regulator on a 280ZX is a 1:1 regulator, as are most aftermarket regulators. That's what you will want for Megasquirt. A rising rate regulator usually isn't 1:1 - they can add anywhere from 2 to 12 psi of fuel for each psi of boost, and this can complicate things. You want a boost referenced regulator, but not a rising rate one.