Drax240z

In short, no, in the way you are asking the question. But if you consider a turbo or a supercharger a bolt on... YES.

11 years and I still don't have my car done!

A few more for me as well over the years: Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw: 10/10 One of my best purchases ever. Solid design, great blade, can shave off pieces of lumber 0.010" thick repeatedly. Makita 12" metal chop saw: 9/10 Rock solid and works great. Makita sanders (orbital, 1/3 sheet): 9/10 At $50ea on sale, a smoking deal and great products. Rigid 1/2" Corded Hammer Drill: 2/10 Crap. Lasted me 12 x 1/2" holes in cheap concrete before burning up. Dewalt 1/2" Corded Hammer Drill: 8/10 Good value for money. Still ticking along nicely. Mastercraft ratcheting wrenches: 9/10 I have metric and SAE longs and stubby's, my first choice of wrenches every time. Inexpensive, durable, excellent! Ryobi 18V cordless stuff: 8/10 Good value for money, batteries are a bit expensive and relatively short lived.

I'll email you, but we should chat.

Here fishy fishy fishy! Got to free up a parking spot first.

ZHP shiftknob is a big improvement as far as stiffness goes, and about 1" shorter overall. Hopefully I can reciprocate with something nearly as interesting!

Awesome Ron, just awesome. I've driven lots of Z's, and lots of M's, and without even driving it I can imagine how great a match this is. Good on ya for tackling this one!

Because it's a solid design, and easily capable of supporting my power goals.

As I said earlier in the thread, this is not surprising, nor is it a rip off, nor is it out of line with industry. This is a custom job, it's going to take a few hours (especially if the customer is present to test fit) and at $100+/hr it's going to cost you. Anyone who thinks this is a rip off has 1) never paid for a repair, and 2) never tried to make a living off of making repairs.

The last few pages have been cleaned up of photo quoting. DO NOT QUOTE PHOTOS. It's annoying. It's poor internet etiquette. It can ruin an otherwise good thread.

BPR6ES here I believe... you're in the right ballpark anyway.

Packaging in a Z car often becomes challenging.

I don't believe you'd see gains over a properly set up carburetor, running a TBI setup. One of the real benefits of a semi-modern EFI system is that you are putting the injector bosses right at the port. This gives you more control, better (even) distribution, and typically leads to better performance, economy, and emissions. The 4bbl replacement EFI setups are appealing to many because they are an easy swap for a 4bbl carb. I've attached something else for your consideration. Not sure if you are looking for the best performance, or a compromise with cost and performance out of this.

I've got a potential 400hp solution for you... Buy my car (for sale in classifieds) for $8700 and have $20,000 in parts to play with and install as you see fit in your car? Drax's 240z Turbo

Next person to comment on whether the O.P. is making the "right" decision with his credit is getting a big boot in the ass. Answer the question he's asked or don't post. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Woohoo, first drive! Looking forward to pics & vids!

Can't wait to hear your feedback from the first drive in anger.

To the Miata comments... I used to own one, great car. If I was really going the convertible route the Z3M roadster is about $7-8k cheaper than the coupe. I know all too well what 25k can BUILD. Yes, I can build an awesome car with that money. The key is, I don't have the time to do it. In a few years I can re-address that need with a suitable project. Until then, I want something to actually drive. 151ft for 70-0mph for the Z3 M coupe. Z3 M coupe is a distinctly different car than the Z4, more raw, louder, agressive, more car. As well, skidpad numbers tell about 10% of the handling story. Any car in race form has a good chance at out handling cars in street trim. In my mind the skidpad tests really only tells you what tires the new car comes with.

Also, if any of you know of good 911, S2000, NSX, etc. buy & sell resources, post them up. Similar to the excellent: M Coupe Buyers Guide Got to throw this photo out there, try to make others understand the passion...

Some great responses guys, thank you. Mostly cars I've considered, but I have MY (personal) reasons for choosing some rather than others. I'll put them out there for debate. The Originals Porsche 911 - Lots to like, and everyone knows what that is. Drawbacks for me are 1) too common 2) probably too much work for a $25,000 example. Not ruling this out. NSX - Really like these, need more power and more noise and basically they are great. Headers, exhaust, intake take care of the noise. If I didn't have a buddy locally with one I'd probably be more interested than I am. His is a 9.5/10 beauty. Still not ruling this one out. Corvette Z06 - Never really in the running for me, but it's a hell of a lot of car for the money. Not sold on styling, commonality, or the cheap-ish fit and finish. Probably not in the running. BMW Z3 M Coupe - Car I've been lusting over for 11 years. S54 examples have 315hp, and are among the best handling cars made. Love it or hate it styling, I love it. An object of desire, but is it the best choice? Front runner for sure. The Suggestions Lotus Elise - I lust after this car, but worry that it's going to be a bit underwhelming as a STREET car. If it was an autoX/track car, with only occasional street use, I'd consider it. For me, I'm looking for a street car with occasional autoX use. Ariel Atom - See above, but twice as much. I see a lotus 7/Ariel Atom as a 2-3 year DIY project down the road a bit. BMW E30 - Too mundane/common for my tastes, even the M3. A bit too old. I drive an E36 every day as it is. MKIV Supra - Driven a few, not the "driving" experience I am looking for though. I like them in a lot of ways, I'm more of a corner carver than a straight line guy though, and the Supra seems better tailored towards brutal acceleration. Lancer EVO - I have ZERO interest in a boosted 4 cylinder unless it's in a MUCH lighter car than this. Not a big fan unless it's for rally use. (where it's phenomenal) Not my intended usage. Honda S2000 - Best steering I've ever driven. Fits the corner carver in me. Engine is only so-so in my mind. Not a fan of convertibles. A bit too common for me. Mustang - I've owned one, no interest in owning another. I understand the appeal, but I'm looking for something a bit less cookie cutter. Volvo C30 T5 - Not quite going to do it for me, in this particular application. Maybe a better replacement for my daily driver, but I can't see a scenario where I get revved up to get the Volvo out of the garage for a weekend cruise. Not sure a manual tranny is available? Super 7 - In the long term plan, but it's got to be DIY project and I'm not looking for that at this point. In a few years once the kids are doing their own thing perhaps. BMW E36 M3 - Doesn't work for me, not looking for a daily driver. E36 already daily driven. Porsche 928 - Just doesn't do "it" for me. Love it or hate it styling, and I don't love it. Jaguar - Unless its an XK120 or a D-type, I'm going to have to pass. Skyline - RHD only here. Not an option for me.

So let's say hypothetically you have $25,000 to spend on an used sports car. It's going to be a bit of a garage queen, reserved for weekend and summer jaunts. You don't want to put much time into maintenance/building, otherwise you'd have something along the lines of another Z. Staying away from anything too exotic and old (ie: old lotus, old lambo, etc.) due to ongoing costs and work. Basically it's got to be a drive it, enjoy it, park it, and drive it again car. What would you buy? Thoughts and comments encouraged.

I've got a turbo Z for sale if you are interested in that option. Check the for sale section. Whatever you do if you are buying a car unseen, make sure the seller will satisfy you with any photos you request, and make sure they are clear. If the photos are unclear, or they don't fulfill your request I'd be cautious.

Winner winner, chicken dinner. Use the $685 you have left to put a 3" exhaust on it.

If that happens, the last thing you will be thinking about is your car. T-bone + early Z = bad news.

I've used it first hand a fair bit and will offer up my experiences. In 2000 I sandblasted the underside of my car (ugh) and applied POR-15 to a freshly sandblasted surface. At the same time I did much of what the OP did to the floorboards, removed everything down to bare metal. I used a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder (which worked really well by the way) to remove all residue and prep for POR-15. I applied it direct to the floors as well, no primer no other steps. In about 2004 I had the car up again for a lengthy period. The undercoat POR-15 was holding fine everywhere. No delamination, no rust, no failures. It didn't look all that great (faded, dirty, etc.) so I power-washed and reapplied over the old coat to freshen it up. To this day, it still looks pretty damn good and has not failed under the car. (with limited driving, but always stored outside) The floorpans have seen some failure however. It didn't bond to everywhere on the floor great. There was some small amounts standing water for a period on the floorboards. They have some surface rust, but have held up really well too. I think the failure of my POR-15 was due to 1) not properly prepping floorboards, should have sanded as well as wire wheeled and 2) never covering the POR-15, no carpet, padding, sound deadening, etc. I think if the OP put this on fresh, rough metal and/or used metal prep he'll be good for some years. How many? Based on what I know of California weather I'd guess more than 10...