Drax240z

Wheelman, that crimp in the 90* corner of the middle line looks a little suspect to me!

Weber parts... http://www.overseas-auto.com/Home/index.html Might find some linkage help there.

You know... I think I'd still be building a Z.

Good point, if you are running excessively rich, or have blow by problems, changing your oil and filter more regularly is probably a good idea.

Amsoil recommends oil changes every 36,000miles, and filter changes every 12,000miles right on the bottle...

I would try to approach the problem without dialing back caster... Z's don't really have enough to begin with. Is there any way you can shift some of the weight bias towards the rear? (battery relocation being the big thing that comes to mind) Your other options are limited, but I can't figure out why your steering effort would be so high with only 2600lbs, and stock steering components and only 195 tires! What front wheels are you using? (Size & offset?)

I can probably go in for 3 sets.

Flex-a-lite 16" fan... low profile. Fits nicely and is under $100. As has been said here before, the Taurus fan does NOT fit with the L6. I've cut the hell out of one too trying to get it to work and failing.

Had the chance to weigh the Z contingent at the track last weekend. Here are the results. Please post your weights in a similar manner if you have verified it on an accurate scale. All cars listed have full interior. 1970 240Z L28, 14x7" panasports, basically stock otherwise: 2310lbs 1973 240Z L31, 15x7" enkei, 4runner vented brakes, heavy seats, R160LSD, 5 spd:2420lbs 1972 240z L28T 15x7" enkei, heavy recaros, R200, roll bar, big IC: 2440lbs 1973 240Z L28, 15x6" swastikas, R200, 5 spd, Volvo vented front brakes: 2460lbs 1975 280Z L28, 14x7" turbines, triple carbs, no bumpers, otherwise stock: 2560lbs

You can find a head cheaper than that, check your local pick&pulls. 75-78 should all have N42 IIRC.

I used a sump welded on to my tank that extends about 1" lower than the bottom of the tank and it works like a charm. I've never had fueling issues on the track or street, and I don't recall ever bottoming out on it, even on steep driveways and so on.

With the restrictor in place they do 0-60 in under 4 seconds and a 1/4 mile in the 11's.

A good bang for the buck swap would be a head swap to a well prepped N42... I'd start small, get a feel for things and upgrade what you have given your funds. Welcome!

Another vote for exhaust. Awesome results with a 3" mandrel bent system compared to a 2.5" crush system.

Count me in for 3 sets.

I'm interested in a 16x8" too...

ANother point, please realize there can be a difference between spring rate, and wheel rate. You can have a semi-trailing arm design with a 500lb/in spring rate that has a lower wheel rate than a 150lb/in chapman strut design. Generally struts wheel rate is equal to the spring rate at the corner, not so for many other suspension geometrys.

The 3 I measured were all the same size. 82 turbo, 75NA, and 81 turbo.

I love my 2 post Rotary and wouldn't trade it for a 4 post... In my opinion a 4 post is only really needed for wheel alignments. Pretty sweet though, even with my severely lowered Z I don't need to mess around with jacks & blocks and so on to get my car on the hoist.

All indications I've seen are that the 350z is VERY competative in autoX, right out of the box... Bone stock I've seen them beating some very well built 240z's, with seasoned drivers.

Jon, what size bars are you using with 200/250?

You have to have a minimum number of posts and have been here a certain amount of time before you can use the classifieds. Basically we want the person to have a reputation on the site before they can start using it to sell stuff.

Automatic ones have 2 pulgs on them, one plug is a switch type output, the other is a potentiometer type output. You can use either independantly.

SU's are simple any they work. There is a reason why Jags, Lotus, Volvo, Datsun, etc. all used carbs of this design on their inline engines. There is also a reason why every sportbike from day 1 until about 2000 used a variation of the SU design on their inline engines, before switching to EFI. (way after the automotive world) I won't get into the reasons they are pretty self-explanitory and many have allready been mentioned. For balls out performance (which I assume you are after, spending the money to build yourself a stroker) it is hard to beat triple carbs on these engines.

Giving this one a bump... I am thinking I might be able to get around to pulling the turbo tomorrow and seeing what I can do with it as far as rebuilding goes. I am going to try to get the turbo out the bottom of the engine bay without pulling the exhaust manifold off. (anyone had any luck with that method?) I have oild buildup on all 6 spark plugs, looks pretty even cylinder to cylinder, which is the biggest reason I suspect the turbo still. I'm getting tired of it, so it's about time I dealt with it!