Drax240z

I'm interested but not able to commit to much at this point. Please keep me informed though. I'll be after multiple sets if this happens.

My general guildline for turbo vehicles... Load vs AFR Flat ground: 15.5:1 Small hill: 15.5:1 Med hill: 14.7:1 Steep hill: 13.0:1 Max throttle: ~11.5:1

Don't believe everything you hear!

Me as well. I really want to get one and turn it into a monster.

Ramp rate is chosen purely on power & torque output, to make the run last long enough to get some resolution on the readings, but short enough not to overstress or over heat the engine. If it is chosen incorrectly it likely won’t have negative results, unless it is way off base. If it was an in-ground install, and it’s a RWD shop, then I’d say your roller was likely in the right spot. (the knurled roller being the one with the grooves in it, which should be in front of the drive wheels) From what you describe it still sounds like a slipping clutch to me. It is possible to load the car more on the dyno than you could find on your average street which may be why you couldn’t duplicate the problem. The fact that it occurred at your torque peak would indicate a slipping clutch as well. What kind of clutch are you using?

Sweet! That's a great swap. STI's wail.

Yup, corresponds nicely to the turbo spooling up and boost being made.

Allright, you graph cleary shows that your clutch was not slipping. A dyno dynamics unit is sensitive enough to show 1 missed ignition event on 1 cylinder at any rpm. It will show a slipping clutch and there will be no doubt. Do you know what they used for ramp rate? If you can find out, do so. It should be somewhere between "150" and "175" for that car. Any lower than that and they are too low. ("150" = 15.0 km/h per second acceleration) Now, the big questions. Was the mounted in ground or above? Where the knurled rollers in front of, or behind the drive wheels? If they got lazy, or do a lot of FWD cars, they may have had your car on the dyno backwards. That's fine for lower power cars, but usually ~250rwhp is where you'd change over. Maybe they were lazy about it. That combined with the burnt straps (tell them to order new straps dammit, they are just asking for trouble) could have caused your wheel slippage. If the dyno/car is facing such a was that the knurled roller is in front of the drive wheels and not behind, you should be able to turn out 400+rwhp WITHOUT STRAPS on that dyno. Loading up the rear of the car is not necessary in any case if you have straps. Anyway, see if you can find those things out. My guess is they got lazy and put your car on backwards, with the knurled roller behind the drive wheel. (causing your car to unload the knurled roller under power, ever so slightly) That combined with the strap problem likely let your wheels spin a bit...

What kind of dyno were you on? Really sounds like a slipping clutch though.

I had the Z on there for about 15 minutes while we were training... 24hp and 30ft-lbs gained in 15 minutes tuning... We'll see what this weekend will bring for improvements.

I wish it was just for a hobby! No, it's for my business based in Victoria, BC... We are now the only chassis dyno worth it's salt on the entire island. However with that said, it will be used a lot by the owner of the shop after hours.

I haven't even added it all up yet... with shipping, duty, plane tickets, hotels, etc.... probably in the range of $50k-$60k US.

The worlds best dyno... or so I have come to realize after the training sessions. Man this thing is powerful... More training coming tomorrow, but I am stoked to say the least. Haven't had the Z on it yet, tomorrow it will head that way I am sure. Mostly setup and some basic training taking place today.

I'm really happy with my hypercoils too. Very nice product.

Thats exactly what I did as well with mine, and it isn't very loud at all... way quieter than the stock bosch turbo pump. Strange.

Do a freaking search. Thread locked.

Don't skip by checking your timing as well. It is very important! Chances are you have no detonation at idle... What is your AFR under load? 11.8 is a very safe mixture under load, providing your timing is in the ballpark of where it should be for your particular setup. Sounds like your problem isn't mixture though.

Are you using the Walbro GLS392 pump? Mine is CONSIDERABLY quieter than stock, and is one of the least noisy pumps I've ever heard. I mounted it externally using the padded sleeve and clamps... Also if you mount an intank version of this pump externally it will be louder and will overheat... don't ask me how I know this.

I'm running a 200f/250r split with no rear bar and a 1-1/8" front bar, and using illumina's for damping. Works well, but I still need some fine tuning, I think a 1" front bar would help. John's suggested setup would work very well. (I ran 200/225 for a while, but had too much understeer going on with no rear bar... so I added some more spring)

Good times! Congrats Jamie!

Worst cage design I've ever seen... you could build a cage twice as rigid with half that steel easily...

As far as I can see the only ones at fault were Michelin...

I hope to have a lot to add to these type of discussions soon. My Dyno Dynamics unit shipped out of Louisiana today. I should have it in my shop here and set up in less than 2 weeks! Believe me I will be using it a lot for my Z, and I will share the info as I can. Included in this will be a comparison between stock and aftermarket cams on my setup, whenever I get around to getting a new cam. (won't be too terribly long) Great info though!

I've used Cymat before and this isn't at all the same stuff as what you'd use to make your chassis more rigid. It is used by OEM's in their crush zones/bumper mounts, and we used it in FSAE for the same thing. It isn't something that can be sprayed into cavities... Inventive and superior product for what it is, but it's not going to help you much in this application.