Drax240z

I bet in winnipeg you can get the same thing for $50k.

Popular bore sizes are probably going to be 1mm, 2mm & 3mm overbore. (0.040", 0.080", 0.120") As far as thickness goes I's say make them all 1.5mm. (same as stock I believe)

Personally I don't like dynojet as much as the other options out there. They read notorously high for hp, fine for comparison purposes, but really just an ego boost for said owner. Also the base model (which many companies buy) doesn't have any kind of load control, which honestly is the only way to tune with a dyno. Doing pulls through the rev range and getting your AFR is nice and all, but it's not a very useful tuning aid, you might as well just buy a wideband with datalogger. (not to say these aren't useful, I just wouldn't want to spend a minimum of $25k US for a dynojet and not be able to tune accurately) If the purchaser springs for the extra's with the dynojet (load control, wideband, etc) it brings it up to the level of most of the other dyno's on the market. For me, I want to be able to tune. I don't care about HP numbers. Which is why I am trying to buy a dyno dynamics setup for my shop. I can hold RPM and LOAD anywhere I want. I can simulate going up a hill at 4000rpm in 4th gear, then at 4250rpm, then at 4500rpm, and hold it there while I do my tuning for that specific cell. I can hold it there and play with my timing to see how much power I gain or lose at that specific rpm, in real time. It might cost twice as much as a dynojet, but I think the results will be well worth it in my customers eyes. And if all they care about is hp numbers, then we can do that too. However, as long as you use the same dyno back to back, and if you are comparing mods done to your car to see the results, any dyno will help you there.

I'd go 180.

I've been down this road too. Bought my "project" Z when I was on a break from university. (midway through 2nd year) I did a bit of work on it over the next few months, then long before I was done I went back to university. The car then sat covered at my parents house for 3 years while I finished up. After I was done school I finished the car and am driving it daily now. Money has always been tight for me, now I am at a job where I am making way more money than at any other point in my life, and I still can't find much to spend on the Z. (good old school debts) My advice is to stick with it, store it when you don't have time for it, and pick away at it as best you can. The money won't magically appear when you finish school, assuming you have some accumulated debt from school like most people do, but with any luck the car will be waiting when you do have the time & money.

5k seems more than reasonable to me.

That's awesome information. Subtract 2 gallons of fuel from your 18 lbs too.

I find most people that use camber plates do dual duty street/auto-X around here, and like to switch settings when they get to the track. Camber plates make it a snap. There are lots of other methods that will work fine for a dedicated setting though.

Do a search. This has been covered as much as any other topic here. Thread locked.

Adjust your valves correctly before doing anything too rash.

I'd start with 1.5-2* per psi to be safe, and reduce the amount of retard from there as you test. I suspect you'll be able to get away with 1*-1.5* per psi if you are running premium fuel.

What CR? What is your base timing? What does your timing curve look like? What year engine? How is your fueling system? Throw us a bone...

Offset bushings work well in the rear, but in the front any camber change by way of adjusting the LCA will result in a toe change as well and will need to be adjusted out. Hence the reason why camber plates in the front are quite superior. (unless you don't mind going adjusting toe as well every time... or the toe changes work out to your advantage)

I really hate that sentance. Absolutely untrue as a blanket statement. There are detailed discussions on this website as to why. Not to be anal, but let's stick to the facts.

Though I will say of the stuff this guy is bitching about is either really minor, or just wrong. http://www.matthews210turboconversion.com/coolingfan.html Personally I'd rather have my fan pulling the air in the direction it would be travelling when I am driving forward.

Well put.

Not sure where you are in BC, but if you are on the island you can bring it by my shop in Vic and we'll sort it out for you. http://www.zensport.ca

Yup follow Doug's advice there. 304 has a very high coefficient of thermal expansion, so you certainly will need something! I'd go for the SS flex section myself.

Threads merged. Feel free to steer it in a (slightly) new direction if it hasn't answered your questions yet. Try to stick to the topic in the title though.

Pete the Smart's aren't that slow!

370cc/min is enough for 300rwhp. Now if your goal is 350rwhp then you should state that, because that requires larger injectors. 300rwhp is doable on the stock turbo and has been done by a few guys here... though they may not have the dyno sheets to prove it their quarter mile times certainly do. Since you are using an SDS you can get away with going a bit on the larger side of what you need and still get decent off boost economy/performance/idle.

6 370cc injectors should do you just fine for 300rwhp.

My 1972 240z, turbo motor swap, R200, IC, piping, recaro seats, stereo, etc: 2440lbs with 3/4 tank of gas and no driver. (no spare, tools, etc. in the car, this was at the track)

Welcome back man!