sickboy

Worst one? I'll just go with most recent: Welding under the car with no gloves (like an idiot), giant blob of metal falls off and lands on my wedding ring. Nothing I can do but watch it cook my flesh and then the skin just melted off (would that be considered 3rd degree?). Surprisingly it healed up perfectly.

My Dodge Cummins (4x4, quad cab) gets 17-18 mpg towing a 24' trailer with the Z on it. If I weren't such a lead foot it may even do a little better.

You have to respect the guy who takes a newer perfectly good sports car, rips it apart, and rebuilds it into his vision. Looks great!

Quote: I disagree with not needing a BHJ. I know of no one with a turbo L that hasn't had problems with a reworked stocker Yep a BHJ is good money spent. I too am running the Rebello setup.

I disagree with not needing a BHJ. I know of no one with a turbo L that hasn't had problems with a reworked stocker. Yep a BHJ is good money spent. I too am running the Rebello setup.

Yes that would be considered normal for a 240z which is (or was) driven hard or autocrossed. The stock chassis is surprisingly flexy and those are the points where it shows. My car was stock (with hubcaps and original paint) when I bought it about 15 years ago. It began to develop these cracks after several autox events. Strut tower braces and a rollbar will help a bit. Don't sweat it though, you're not alone.

Hey Bartman, glad you got it to fit.

Damn Clifton you are a tease!

Yes I ground the corners by the A pillars and the tabs were a little thick. It took 2 minutes with a dremel.

Dave at AZC is pretty close lipped about his sources (I don't blame him). I switched from all Ground Control stuff over to AZC coilovers last year. I like em.

Not safe IMO, you want something with some mass towing a car on a trailer. I know a guy who was towing his race car behind a V8 Grand Cherokee, the whole rig started wagging (for whatever reason) and it all ended up in a tangled mess next to the highway. I've had trailer tire blowouts and emergency manuevers at highway speeds, they are scary in a 4-door 3/4 ton truck but controllable. Behind an Odyssey? Could you save it?

I agree with Jon and Tony, don't dismiss those rings so easily. My last engine began smoking on decel and consuming oil. Compression tests were strong and even, leakage tests less than 5%. After performing every test I could think of several times with different testers (to rule out faulty equipment) I concluded it MUST be the rings. It was. Engine back together with no smoke/oil loss. I do not run a pcv, both breathers run to a catch can with a vent on top. Been running this setup for over ten years with no problems and zero leaks. My .02, good luck.

I've seen this happen twice, one was a modified 240z with urethane t/c bushings and the other was a bone stock 280z. The 240z t/c rod snapped while driving, the 280z snapped while backing out of a service bay. They both broke right in front of the bushing. Unpredictable and scary! I bought a set of front control arms from Mike Mileski and modified them slightly. They are very well made and easy to adjust IMO. Thanks Mike!

Funny you mentioned that, they said they are working on lids right now. They also plan on producing a cf hatch. Don't know any prices yet.

2180 lbs with less than 1/2 tank. '71 with cf hood AZC 4 wheel disc brakes AZC big piston coil overs chrmo control arms 15x9.5 Kodiaks with slicks 14 point cage PDK FG dash with Autometer ultra-lites race seats full interior with all glass (no HVAC) L28 with triples, crankfire 5-speed r180 AZC Al radiator stock bumpers with all holes filled

Here it is, took a little bit of dremel work on the tabs to fit up. It's a nice piece IMO, no ripples, gaps are even. CF matches my hood perfectly (pattern and angle).

I put in a bid for $280 and got it. No heater in my car so don't need the vents. Hopefully it matches my CF hood somewhat. I'll let you know how the quality is.

I like it, that car screams "don't F with me"

Hey Clifton! Yes FA fronts all around

The car is still in pieces in my garage, a few local z car guys have dropped by to see it and seemed to like it. This is my first cage and I found out I'm miserably slow at bending and fitting tubes (35+ hours into it). Next is fitting up the fiberglass repro dash (mock-up brackets can be seen in the pics).

15 x 9.5 Kodiak STXs, Yokohama a005s

More pics of my setup. Designed to increase chassis stiffness and still be able to get in and out of the car without pulling my groin. Definitely a compromise in several areas but I believe it will suit my needs (track days, auto-x, some street use). No doubt not as stiff or safe as multiple door bars and a race seat mounted to the cage itself. Maybe next car.

Good advice here, an old timer (40+ years as a pro welder) simply told me to " build a puddle and keep it moving". Sounds overly simple but is really the essence of welding. This helped me immensely when I was a beginner, hopefully helps you too

Here is a pic of my cage, it is a compromise because the car is still street legal and is driven around town occasionally (I did not want to have to climb in and out of the car). I agree, a hard side impact would most likely end me without a helmet on.