katman

http://www.ztherapy.com, get their tuning video and save yourself a lot of headaches.

http://kennesaw.ga.us/CodeOfOrdinances.aspx

And opposite of Washington, DC is Kennesaw Georgia, right next door to me, where by law you HAVE to own a gun. Violent crime is, well, nonexistent. Great link Mr. Coffey, your research constantly amazes me.

It's 770) 932-0160. It's not really comparing apples and apples. Sunbelt's engines don't usually blow up....

You might also try Les Cannaday at http://www.classicdatsun.com. His door seals allegedly don't have the fitment problems everybody else's has.

Just some data points to ponder. In SCCA's ITS class we weren't allowed diff coolers, and we had to run the R180 so couldn't take advantage of the finned cover available for the R200. Running the factory clutch type LSD with say 105 lbs of preload we never had any heat related issues *until* Mr. Panoz changed the configuration of Road Atlanta and we started using 3.90's and 4.11's instead of 3.54's. Then we began cooking the diff fluid. Put a 325 degree tranny temp gauge on it and proceeded to break the needle off the thing after 11 laps. Not kidding. Tried Red Line and a bunch of other synthetics and racing fluids to no avail. Tried different preloads to no avail. Tried duplicating the problem by bolting the race diffs into a street car and driving the bejesus out of it including doing circles in the local high school parking lot until we puked and could never get it anywhere near hot on the street. But 11 laps in at Road A in the race car and we're puking fluid out of the vent and smoking the bearings. Finally found an additive by BG that got us the 20 laps we needed, and in fact made an enduro or two with no problems. Bottom line, I agree with John- probably don't need a diff cooler on the street. I have an original Gleason Torsen in an R200 on a street car and have run short sessions on the track with no problems. Find a way to get a temp guage on it to confirm whether or not you really need one, becase the only pump I'd trust is a Tilton and they're big bucks.

And they should be "wet" installed with mil-s-8802 or equivalent so you don't have corrosion problems with steel on aluminum.

I hate this design for the front control arms even though people use them for years without apparent problems. For a street car I'd much rather just go poly. The problem I have with them is they force the control arm to pivot about an axis through the centerline of the bushing, when in fact, by virtue of its attachment to the T/C rod, the control arm needs to pivot about said axis AND rotate about an axis parallel to the control arm. So something is being bent, or slop in the bushing is being created, every time the control arm goes up and down. YMMV.

If it has "a few little holes" in it there's probably not much real metal left in it to save. What brand/type header is it?

Ever since my days wilth aluminum tubbed solid engine mounted sports racers I am not a fan of solid engine mounts. Spent more time retightening hardware and buckin' loose rivets than you can shake a stick at. Some people get away with it, I don't do it anymore, even on my race cars. YMMV Here's a trick we used on the ITS 240Z (listen up Ed!). The rules allow us a stayrod between the engine and chassis to help react torque so we don't break factory stock engine mounts. What we did was take the stock mount and saw off the stud that bolts it to the crossmember. Then back drill thru where the stud was, thru the rubber, and thru the plate on the engine side. Then we ran a bolt from the crossmember thru the entire engine mount block, and put a rubber washer and thick steel washer on the engine side of the plate, and then the nut. Make sense? We only did this on the driver's side to meet the rule for "one stayrod". This relieves the big block of rubber from tension, and maintains somewhat of a vibration absorbing system. Cheap too.

pffffssht. Wasn't the South the ones with the slaves? I'm with Mike. And no, you don't have to exterminate every man, women, and child, you just have to knock back the terrorism long enough for freedom to take hold. Then the brainwashing of the younger generation will stop and the whole radical Islamic movement will collapse. Somebody in your neighborhood wants to kill you. It's his core belief. You gonna wait until he sends his son over to play with a bomb strapped to his waist? I'm bringin' my guns over to Mike's and my son over to do the reloading.

At the Regional level SCCA has a class called Improved Touring where you'll find lots of 240Z's in competition trim still winning on road courses all over the country. Check the listing for Speed Channel's SCCA Run-Off's coverage of the E Production class- 240Z's still running in there too.

Where did you get that? I heard an interview with the teacher in question and that's not the "context" I got. Whut up wit dat?

http://www.HUSSEINandTERROR.com and http://www.HUSSEINandTERROR.com/hayes.htm for more links. And of course http://www.insiderreport.net/clash_1-2.html and related discussion of this article (research-it has some minor boo boo's in it) for a little info on why we went into Iraq.

Not exactly. Wave energy is so much higher than mass airflow that turbo systems aren't immune to reversion or other wave induced calamities. Nothing like running the design through Dynomation I always say...

If you make it higher than it is now, then it is a "raise". No spin. Now, if it was "proposed" to lower taxes, and you repealed the proposal, then you could say you aren't raising taxes. See the difference? (or, if Kerry wins, Viva Le Difference?)

Well here's my take on adding welds, stitch or spot, to an otherwise sound unibody. This opinion is based on having prepared and maintained several 240Z's for SCCA ITS racing, several rotisserie restorations, and a few "Texas Sawzall Massacre's" on unibody's that didn't cut it (ha, there's a pun) for racing. The thing I don't like about welding anything extra on a Z that isn't necesary for a repair is that you fry any primer that might have been inside the joint from the factory. Yeah there's a lot to be desired here to begin with, but it if it wasn't rusted before it probably will now. Structurally I'd be surprised if it added any measureable overall stiffness (this opinion based on 20+ years analyzing bolted aircraft structure). Now more welds would reduce the load on the existing spots, and theoretically the flexibility of the joints would be reduced, but I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference in handling. Me thinks this is especially true of stitch welds, which are generally another "half a flange width" away from from where you need them. Now there is some merit in reducing the stresses on the existing spotwelds, so I've been known to add spotwelds via the aforementioned method (I use a 1/4 drill) in critical areas on the race cars. This is usually limited to the frame rails in the vicinity of the sway bar attachment. I see cracks develop on a regular basis forward of the firewall on the frame rails, but never in many years of racing have I seen any signs of fatigue anywhere else on the unibody (suspension parts and stub axles are another matter). Also, having done a few postmortem's on some racing accidents with Z's I can't recall ever seeing something that made me go "hey, a few more spot welds would have been safer". I'm presently wrestling with this issue on my own street car project ('71 with a BMW V12, don't ask- I'm not very far along, my wife keeps spending all my money). Sure is tempting to stitch weld everything in sight while it's on the rotis (actually, what is really tempting is to drill out every spot weld and bond it all back together with a weld thru bonding agent but I told my racing partner to shoot me if he catches me doing that), but in the end I'll probably leave it all as is. Repairs or add-ons is another matter, and I don't disagree with what's already been said.

We did a back-to-back on an ITS prepped L24 and actually gained 2 hp when we removed the scraper (engine dyno). There were a few reasons why we thought the test did opposite of what we expected, but bottom line is you're not going to feel the difference anyway. To be effective it needs to be about 0.040-0.060 from all the rotating parts, and stiff enough not to bend. A big PITA that only makes sense for competition.

The spec line for an ITS 240Z says 9.5:1 is the legal limit, and the engines in question were both at the legal limit.

Got any lambda or other mixture ratio data? Without that you could be losing tons of hp in tuning. Second, chassis dyno numbers don't mean squat unless it's relatively back to back pulls. Way too many variables. Do a leakdown check just to make sure the bottom is sound. Eliminate the obvious and easy things first.

Ha! The KATMAN test. I agree, one of the better cages I've seen in a non racing forum. Agree too with JohnC's suggestions, especially that a single diagonal in the plane of the main hoop would be mucho bettero (lighter, stronger, lower CG) than the X brace from the top of the hoop to the rear strut towers. I also prefer my front lateral bar to be just above the tranny tunel, not up near the windshield. This does a better job of keeping the footwell intact. Looks well executed.

Interesting, but 3 times stronger than what kind of steel? Heck, 9Ni-4Co-0.30C steel is 4 times stronger than C1025 steel. Is the Modulus of Elasticity still 29e+6? And "brittle" is a baaaad thing. What we need is a room temperature spray on steel ......

Gasketworks- http://www.headgasket.com, or Richard Clark Gaskets. Got an address around here somewhere. If anybody wants to go this route lemme know. On the odd chance somebody wants one, they have a custom L24 gasket shape on file we used in our ARRC winning ITS 240Z's.

Atlanta Road Paint & Body in Smyrna does pretty much anything for money and pretty competently too. Advanced Paint & Body in Holly Springs did a great job on my last 240Z race car and a few insurance jobs since. Now if you're after the $6000 show car paint job I can point you to somebody for that too, but is the reason your car sat for months at two different shops because you were getting a "deal" on the price?