biohzrd

thanks for the help guys. i guess i'll go ahead and give it a try and if it blows put in the old 700r4. it'll probly be easier to set it up for the standard the 1st time and then go with the auto if needs be than visa-versa. thanks guys

i have aquired a t5 out of a 92 model hyw patrol camaro and was wondering what kind of hp and tq it could hold up to. would putting it in a z raise its dependability due to the fact of a 1000 lbs of less weight. i've heard mixed thoughts from friends and thought i'd run it buy you guys. i've always heard the less vehicle weight the less the stress on the drive train.

the main reason i'd leave it alone is b/c the 400 block already has thin cylinder walls to begin with . thats befor any machining has been done. if you're going for the 600 hp mark out of a 400 block i think you wnat it to be as close to perfect as you can get it. i've seen guys with 400 blocks before that had all the goodies in it and still blow out the cylinders b/c of spray of too much boost. its just an awful lot of cash to invest in a block that may not handle it even in like new condition. but hey for free you really can't beat the price.

the car was an 87' gtu model i think. in any case it was a 2nd gen car. believe it or not the car weighs less then it did befor. as far as the room in the engine bay goes there is more then enough to fit it in. as a result the car has a perfect 50/50 weight ratio and runs the quarter in the 11 teens.

leave it alone, don't touch it, say bye bye. if it has a crack there that means it got hot. good chance of having a crack in the cylinders aswell. i'd just keep looking. i know 400's are hard to come by but atleast try to start out with a good core

i may just sell the long block if thats the case and use the intake and fi parts . thanks for the help

sorry www.grannysspeedshop.com

www.grannyspeedshop.com just got finished doing one of their swaps with a friend. very easy to do.

i am thinking of getting an lt1 from a friend for a steal. what i'm wondering is what are the main diffs in the bottom end of the lt1 and the 87 through 92 blocks. i'm aware of the optispark setup and elec. water pump. i guess my questions are can you use a regular 350 rod and piston or are the lt1's a different design all together. and 2nd is the reverse flow of the coolant b/c of a change to the block or just to the intake and heads. i want to stroke it to a 383 and use better heads but don't want to have to pay that extra $$$$$ just b/c it says lt1 on it. if you can convert an lt1 intake to fit the older style heads.... why couldn't you put those heads on an lt1 block??? any help would be great thanks

i am intrested in doing a five lug conversion on my 77' 280z and had a few questions. i've heard of people using the 300zx hubs on the stock 240 spindles. i know you have to get a spacer to correct things but what i was wondering was whats the diff. between the 240 and the 280 spindles. if there is a difference can i put 240 spindles on my 280. also what about the rear. i would like to do the five lug back there aswell. right now i have drum brakes but plan on going to a disc brake setup in the future. can i just re-drill the hubs and rotors to accept the five lugs. thanks

i saw that red z a while back and fell in love with it. does any one know what kind of fender flares those are. i love the look

when i saw it at 1st i kinda felt stupid for never thinking to do that before. something so simple and it was there everytime iturned on the lights. i guess in the end it was the fact that i'd done this type of work in the dark a thousand times befor and not noticed it

tonight i was outside working on a friends 4x4 and stumbled onto something that i thought ya'll may find helpful. we were swapping out his front axle and had the big halogen shop light under the truck to see what we were doing. i went to get something out of the cab and OUCH. oh the blinding light. it turns out that my shop light was powerful enough to blast light through every little rust hole in the floorbord. my buddy was pretty upset considering he had just spent the last 2 months repairing the floor. it was amazing holes the size of a needle looked like they were the size of quarteres. we my new found trick i took it over to the z to see what mine looked like. expecting swiss cheese i was impressed with how solid the floor was. only 2 noticeable holes that i had not found before. hope this may shed a little "light" on things for ya. i know the next time i go looking at a possible project i'll be bringing my light and a 100 foot power cord to see how good it really is.

if the msa kit is different then the scarab kit then where does the mounts sold by hooker fall. are they the same as a scarab or are they closer to the msa. the reason i ask is because i got a set of the motor and tranny mounts for free from a guy and was really debating wether to use them or not.

going to put my 406 in it for starters. it's got to much torque off idle though. in the future i plan on putting in a twin turbo motor built more for high speed runs like silver state challenge and those sorts. the current motor is good for about 460hp and 460 tq. i've got over 350 ftlbs of tq at 2000 rpm. makes for a good smoke show though

what all comes in the jtr kit. i was really wondering what must you have with it such as mounts, tranny mount, ect.... i've heard that there is a lot of unneeded parts that you don't really need with it. any help would be great. the other thing i was wondering was would the hooker tranny mount still work or would it have to be the one from jtr.

i sure will. one thing i'm wondering though is about the v8 kit from hooker. if i remember correctly isn't it the same a the scarab kit. if so would the tranny crossmember still work with the jtr motor mounts? i would really like to have the motor sit as far back as possable. better wieght transfer for auto x and so forth.

i forgot to put it in the first post but it comes with a brand new in the box b&m pro rachet shifter. i've got to go find a trailer to pull it home this week

well today after a long hunt i found my new project car. its a 76' 280 thats a good candidate. there is minimal rust on the car except for the rear valance under the taillights. the frame rails, quarters, and floorpans look to be in good shape. there is no carpet and it needs a new drivers seat. the motor and trans has already been removed. the car also needs a new winshield and all new weather stripping. the previous owner removed the weather stripping/ windows to paint the car. what i'm getting with the car is a new master cylinder,rotors, struts,hooker motor mounts, a tranny mount and the paint and prep supplies to finish the paint. the color is a bmw metallic blue. i got it all for 400 bucks. it's going to need a little work before its ready for the street but not to much body work. i'll post pics soon. so it begins

i think that idiot was trying to turn it. if you look close and slow it down, right before he gets goofy look at his right side compared to his left. thats the only thing i can figure. why would you push a car that fast if you were not sure it would take the speed

well one thing you want to look at first is the filter. make sure its clear and free flowing. if it is the pump one thing you can try to do as a limp mode so to speak is clamp off the return line to the tank. this will cause all the fuel to get stopped at the rails and thus giving you a little more psi to work with

what you should do is get with your neighbors and call your local wildlife and fisheries agents aka game wardens. show them what you've found and let them handle it from there. chances are that the reason the cougar is acting this way is b/c she has a litter of cubs somewhere. we had a similar problem down here with a resent resurgence of cougars and the wildlife and fisheries dept. had to address it to protect the safty of the public and the cugar. they have the ability to trap it and move it . i'm afraid if you take measures into your own hands you could be looking at a serious fine or even jail time. so be careful about your actions. also i'm sorry to hear about the loss of you dog. i know how they can sometimes become more of a member of the family instead of a pet. good luck with your problem

nice looking setup. i too often wondered what the cobra rims would look like on a z. if you don't mind me asking what did you use to make the 5 lug conversion. was it a kit or did you piece it together yourself

i don't know what the part #'s on it are but i can get them for you. my friend is the one with the motor. he read an article in one of the hot rod/ hot rodding mags were they made a 455 sb out of it. i was under the impression that it used the sbc heads intake ect.... but i didn't see the article and couldn't tell you for sure. if anyone did see the article about this please chime in. for those who don't know i'm building a twin turbo sbc and am going to need a block that will safly bore out to 4.150 and not have to worry about the cylinder walls cracking under boost. a stock 400 block will not be up to the challenege and i didn't want to spend the big bucks on a bow tie or motown block. if anyone knows of a block like that please let me know.

ttt