luseboy

Thanks for all the tips guys! I guess I will finish cleaning the housings and then get rid of a little surface rust in a couple places internally, install new gaskets, put it all back together, and fill it with fluid. I'm really glad that this thing all worked out, it's really quite nice to not really have to worry about it anymore. Hopefully this trans will work great once I get the car all running. Thanks again everyone!

Man that looks fun. Agreed that they guy is reckless is dumb, but still that looks way too fun. I'll say the same thing about this that I say about motorcycles: You're able to go way too fast and have way too much fun, while being totally exposed. Makes it way too easy to push yourself beyond your limit. Not like a car that usually lets you know when you're pushing it's limits.

Ya I made sure to put the shim in a zip lock, put in a safe place so it won't break. I understand that they're very hard to come by these days. I believe the gasket set includes both the oil seals and the front cover gasket, I will be replacing all 3 of them. Thanks for the tip on sealing the threads! I was thinking while I have it open I would file out the holes in the adapter plate a bit to promote the movement of trans fluid. Is that a bad idea? I'm merely thinking of just making them a tad bigger and smoothing them out a bit. Also is acetone ok to clean the internals? And lastly, should I be concerned about how those rear gears are making noise? Seems to me like once there's tranny fluid in there it should be fine, but it seems like they're not happy at the moment...

Thanks for the tip, I just ordered one through drivetrain! Guess I gotta paint my bellhousing now. Is there anything I should replace while I have the case open? And for putting the tail and bell housings back on, can I use the same rtv sealer I used for my engine (black automotive formula) or do I need something else? Thanks for all the help guys!

I emailed him yesterday about it. Sounds like he's willing since he just made the first one piece glass hood with one of these made in too. He said on his facebook he was willing to do it, haven't heard back from him via email. I'll let you guys know what happens. I know he's always willing to try something new so I don't doubt he'll be up to the task.

Haha oops... sorry stupid iphone doesn't show the whole webpage. I guess the loose nut behind the iphone probably had something to do with it! I'm having trouble finding a gasket for the cover in the front of the bell-housing. The PO of the trans just put some rtv sealer in place of the gasket. I'd like to put the gasket in if I can get one. Should I just make one or does anyone have a source for them?

Thanks Leon! I was reading that some people prefer the MT-90 for the trans? I guess I should read into the difference of that. Man pulled the rear cover off the diff yesterday... 40 year old gear oil smells awful.

It seems like another love it or hate it kind of thing. I personally don't care for it, but maybe it would look good on the right car. Try doing it with plasti-dip first so you can peel it off if you don't like it.

Don't you love it when the simple, easy, practically free answer is the right answer? Glad to hear that you got it all figured out. It's amazing what a little grease can do.

Whoooo! I just got it to shift into 1st. I was messing with it again and noticed the synchro was really dry on 1st so I grabbed some marine gearcase lube I had in my garage and lubed it up and it went right in just as easily as 3rd and 4th did. 2nd is easier now too. It seems to be working now. However, it acts the same if I'm in 1st or neutral. I can spin the input shaft just as easily and the output shaft spins at the same speed either way. Is something wrong here? I can't spin the input shaft at all if it's in any other gear. I'm thinking this is normal? I have a feeling once I put the bellhousing back on and fill it with trans fluid it will work fine. What's the best lube for this trans anyways? What about in an r180, since I'm about to open my diff up too? edit: I can now turn the input shaft, I took some channel locks (with a rag covering the teeth) to the input shaft while in gear and turned it. I guess one of the bearings must have been a little rusty and stuck because now it spins. All the gears seem to work, including reverse. Is it worth it to pull the tail housing off and clean out the rest of the trans? Or is it a bunch more work?

You could also replace them with normal rod ends (mcmaster-carr), get some washers to space it correctly if need be, and a big grade 8 bolt (or even threaded rod) in place of the spindle pin, and basically set it up to be like the techno toy tuning ones. I'm not sure if that's the ideal set up, but it would at least work. That said, the picture above looks very similar to what was there.

I stand corrected. I guess it was never anything I was really interested in doing so I never really looked into it. Disregard what I said... haha

Nothing's impossible. But seriously, why do that? That's gonna be so much work. I doubt you'd be able to do it with the L28. I'd imagine you'd need to swap in a motor that is drive by wire and currently has launch control. This means motor, trans, gas pedal, wiring harness, ECU. It's gonna end up costing so much and being such a pain that I honestly don't see the point. Unless there's some sort of universal launch control module out there, but I still don't see how it would be possible with a mechanically operated throttle body. I suppose you could find an electric throttle body that you could modify to fit, but then you'd need the computer along with it. Unless you're very handy with computer programming and that sort of thing, I would say it's beyond pretty much any car enthusiast's budget or skill set. And at the end of the day, you're driving a car from the 70's, why put launch control in it? I don't know about you, but the reason I bought a 240z is to get away from computers and all the crap going on in modern cars. I personally hate it, and I'm a young member of the generation that grew up with it. Maybe practicing your launches on a drag strip would be better money spent... Personally I'd take more pride in perfecting using my own two feet than programing a computer to do an overcomplicated form of cruise control.

Update; got the shifter today (finally! usps took forever). I can get it into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th easily. 5th and reverse are tough and no luck with first yet. did get it past the baulk ring but it's still catching on the synchronizer hub. I've been lubing it and turning the input shaft. Any other ideas?

Yeah I mean i'm sure it won't be perfect, but very good from what I hear. If you really want no slop, one of the ones pegasus racing makes is supposed to be as good as it gets, but it costs like $500. I figure I can deal with a little bit of slop. I also like the idea of having it welded on, less bolts to get loose.

It is a spline type. I searched around all over different forums and google for hours and this is supposedly a really good one. There is supposed to be very very minimal slop, but a no-slop QR is apparently impossible . This one seemed to be the best.

Don't know if you plan on using a QR, but I have decided to get a weld-on LTB autosports (http://ltbautosports.com/ltbqurewe.html) quick release and weld it to my steering shaft. I really only want the QR for anti-theft reasons, but I believe this will acctually push the wheel closer to the windshield than stock (assuming a flat wheel). I can understand if this is something you don't want to do, but for me it makes total sense (not dealing with adapters, not dealing with crappy quick releases, not dealing with having the wheel too close to me). My car is a street only car (pretty much), or at least will be when it's done.

I'm thinking PCV too. If the PCV valve is worn out, it could be allowing too much of the air from the crankcase to go into the intake manifold, which will likely contain some oil. This wouldn't be a lot of oil, but I guess it could be enough for you to smell it. Otherwise, valve seals are pretty common, and a valve adjustment wouldn't hurt. There is a ton of threads about the ford viton valve seals, they're very popular and proven. The gasket kit I got for my L28 included some viton valve seals. I'm not sure if it is only for the 280zx L28 or if it's just something that company included.

I threw mine away about 6 months ago haha. It's pretty easy to remove them, just drill the head of the pop rivet off and use a screw driver. Get to know some Z people near you, see who's buying Z's and I'm sure they'd be glad to just give em to you. I personally despise the looks of the door gaurds, but that's just me haha.

Well I finished mine up. Painted it, including the engine bay, and primered then undercoated underneath as well. Mine looks about the same as the one RTZ posted. I was measuring up how much space I'd have at full lock with the wheels/tires I want, and there's only about an inch or less. This is with 17x9's, with 225 35r17 tires, and my techno toy tuning T/C rods are pretty extended. I will spin the T/C rods more probably, and see where it's at in a few months when I get an alignment. Otherwise pretty happy with it, it turned out well. I still need to get a battery and wire it in though. But I don't need to for a while since my car isn't very near done. I can fit a god sized battery in mine though, which is good since my car will be a DD.

I hope nothing was damaged from oil starvation. The problem could still be from the oil pump, I'd open it up and make sure everything is cool in there. The most likely cause for burning oil is your valve seals. They are a PITA to change, but not horrible. Get some viton ones out of a ford (cortina, I think?) search on here, it's been talked about more times than you can imagine. Other possibilities are rings, cylinder walls, oil pan/drain plug not sealing, busted pcv valve/system, various gaskets, etc. The most likely one is valve seals. You'll have to adjust the valves when replacing the seals anyways. Other than that it could be a big problem or a little one. Have you pulled the valve cover yet to make sure you don't have a broken rocker arm, valve, valve spring, or valve spring retainer? These can break (though not likely, but hey it's easy to inspect). Also check your timing chain and cam sprocket for problems, teeth can break off, the chain can get bent or maybe get a stiff link, etc. There's a number of things that can go wrong, it's best to inspect them. I'd say buy the "How to rebuild your nissan/datsun OHC engine" book and read up on the troubleshooting section. That book is the best $12 I've ever spent.

I definitley like the rad being flat behind the engine like that. You will probably have trouble bleeding the system as 1976280z2+2 suggests. One thing is you could always run the honda rad in front and a full size flat behind like you have it, that would give you tons of cooling. I'd probably look into having a custom aluminum rad made to fit there, with an inlet that would be facing up. But with two fans underneath the rad and a cool hood scoop and ducting design, you're looking at a vary cool system. I'd think there'd still be room for turbos in there somewhere, especially on either side of the trans. IC placement would be tough, perhaps cut out the bckside (like the side facing the firewall) of the strut mounts, make some sort of semi-tube chassis reinforcment for it to keep it strong and stiff, and put the intercoolers there, on either side, with ducting from the fenders. That could be a good system. You'd have to put some sort of grill or cover over them to prevent road debris from ruining them. But you'd sort of have a built in fan from the wheels spinning. If you went with a G nose you'd have plenty of room in front for 2 good sized intercoolers too. All something to think about. I like that you're using the subi engine instead of the RB. The tricky part with the RB is it does use a transaxle behind the trans (if I'm not mistaken), so you'd have to run a driveshaft from the back of the trans, through the trans tunnel, to the oil pan. I'm sure it can be done, but this way you only have one driveshaft. In order to keep weight in the back, I'd say re-locate as much as you can to the back. Mainly a battery. Maybe go for a really stout, heavy diff (R230 or ford 9" maybe?), and just relocate as much as possible to the hatch area. If you added a good 4pt roll bar that should add a little weight back there too. It is a shame that the engine does have to sit so far forward, the majority of it is in front of the front axle, right? But honestly the weight balance thing is a little over talked about. There was a discussion on here about how it doesn't make as much of a difference as people would think, and the downsides to having a front or rear biased car can be tuned out with proper suspension tuning. Don't worry about that all yet though haha

Is this car going to be street driven? I know some racers like to put the rad in the hatch. You could replace the quarter windows with a piece of lexan with some big NACA ducts and duct from there... Maybe even a hood scoop. Probably wouldn't want to do it on a street car though. I'd think you could mount the rad horizontally or angled over the trans and pull air through the hood, fenders, wheel wells, ducted from the front of the car, etc. That could be a cool set up. The other thing I'm wondering is if it would be possible to put the rad in front of the rad support. It might work there... You'd need some slim fans though.

Wow haha that could've been bad if you didn't catch it in time... Glad to hear it was something so simple, that makes it easier. Although I'm not sure how you'd have noticed any clicking with that exhaust of yours, must have been some really loud clicking!

Wow that looks to have fit in a lot better than I would have thought! What about buying subie front coilovers, and putting Z mounts on top? I'd say maybe go for the techno toy tuning camber plates so you can adjust camber and make up for any difference in width. It'll be pretty cool to see how this all works out.