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luseboy

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Everything posted by luseboy

  1. luseboy
    Ya the 240mm isn't a bad idea. That said, people are now recommending the 225 for higher performance applications due to it's lighter weight and more centered inertia (if that's the correct term, i'm sure it's not though). I went with a 240 for my car but have no feedback yet because the engine is sitting in my parts room waiting for my car to be ready for it. It sure does look strong though, if that says anything
  2. luseboy
    btw make sure you have a throwout collar that matches your clutch/pressure plate. There's a lot of confusion out there but as long as the collar is for the pressure plate that you're using it will work just fine.
  3. luseboy
    Thats a good price for getting the locks re-keyed! Like I said it was a really easy job, and I went into it thinking I couldn't handle it, which was not the case luckily. I didn't think to do anything like that since it's a new switch, but I guess I'll try some PB blaster and see how that plays out, maybe that will do the trick, who knows? If that doesn't work, I'll just have to try and figure out the best switch I can get, and hope it works.
  4. luseboy
    Ya the push button seems really nice but to be honest i like turning the key. I guess I'll just buy a new ignition switch and hope it will be easier to turn so that damn tab doesn't bend on me.
  5. luseboy
    Ya I straightened out the tab, made sure it was in the right position, put the switch to the "lock" position as is marked on the back (err, front technically; side that faces the driver when installed) and got it to seat in the ignition housing. Turned the key to engage it and it wouldn't go past the ACC position. Just using a flathead screwdriver in the ignition switch it does feel really tight, but I can't see how that could be? Or how it could be remedied? I guess I'll just buy another new switch, what's the best bang for you buck for those these days?
  6. luseboy
    For clarification, the ignition is not installed on the steering column, and I was simply holding the switch in place behind the ignition assembly. The steering lock had no friction on it whatsoever... It must just be a really stiff ignition switch unless I'm really missing something?
  7. luseboy
    Well I just got done re-keying my ignition to match my doors per the write up on Ratsun (http://community.ratsun.net/topic/47412-how-to-dissasemble-datsun-510-ignition-switch-and-rekey/) and I'm feeling pretty good about it. Anyone else done this successfully? The only problem I'm having though is that when I went to put my new ignition switch on the back and turn the key to make sure it would all work, the little shaft that turns from the key cylinder and goes into the switch wanted to bend on me... is there some reason that the ignition switch would be too stiff? I think it's a Beck-Arnley unit I bought from Rockauto, if that matters. Any way to free it up so it doesn't bend that piece? Anyways I'm pretty excited that I was able to successfully re-key my ignition. I've still got a whole re-keying kit so if anyone needs their ignition re-keyed feel free to PM me, I'd love to help out those in need. Anyways I'm thinking the ignition switch must be faulty, or there must be some way to get it to turn freely, would appreciate any insight on this. Thanks! -Austin
  8. luseboy
    just need the brackets but thank you anyways.
  9. luseboy
    Hello, I'm looking to buy some rear disk conversion brackets for my 240z. I am looking for the type that would be used to put 280zx calipers on an s30. Please message me if you've got a set of brackets. Thanks! -Austin
  10. luseboy
    These are a bit of a tight fit but worked great for me! http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-7708/10002/-1
  11. luseboy
    Hello, I'm looking for a set of 240z side skirts. Figured I'd see if anyone has a set they're looking to sell. Let me know, Austin.
  12. luseboy
    For the front I used z31 turbo front hubs, which bolt right on. The only caveat with those is that they sit farther out on the spindle and as such space your wheels out a bit, i believe around 10mm per side.
  13. luseboy
    Hello, I'm looking for some sort of 5 lug rear set up for my '73 240z. Redrilled stub axles or some sort of aftermarket solution, whatever you have. Already have the front hubs all set up so just looking for 5 lug stubs. Alternatively, if you happen to have machinery I would be willing to pay you to re-dril my stub axles. Would be willing to trade my stock 240z 4 lug stubs for some 5 lugs of some sort. Planning on using 240z half shafts with the 240z stub axle flange, if that matters. Also have some 280zxt companion flanges (the ones used for CV conversion) if that's of interest as a partial trade. Please let me know!
  14. luseboy
    Hello, I'm looking for 5 bolt stub axles, a 4 point or similar roll bar (bolt or weld in), and the typical rear brake brackets to use 280zx rear calipers. I do have a few things to trade if you are interested: companion flanges to use cv shafts on 240z stubs (pulled from 280zxt), toyota front 4 piston calipers in need of a rebuild (s12+8, not for vented set up), all sorts of stock parts in good shape, etc. Let me know what you have. I'm looking for re-drilled 240z stubs or 280z's if you include half shaft companion flanges. I would also be open to aftermarket 5 bolt stubs but am not exactly on the biggest of budgets. Thanks! -Austin
  15. luseboy
    There are other ways of going about it. Personally, I will be using a 4bbl set up on my L28 and will be using a plenum on that with tubing going to the cowl area which will hold a cone filter. Up to you on what you want to do of course, but this system seemed to be the best option for my personal requirements. Simply putting small filters over the SU's and a heat shield under them would yield plenty good results as well. Either way would clear up the space for the clutch master, I'd think. Does that mean you have a custom shortened driveshaft then?
  16. luseboy
    If I remember correctly the driveshaft is in fact different. Could be wrong though. Aside from that, shouldn't be too difficult. Replace the flex plate and torque converter with a flywheel and clutch, add a "second brake pedal" and the hydraulics to go along with it, pop in the 5 speed tranny, and don't forget to use that "second brake pedal" when shifting!
  17. luseboy
    Reasoning behind not grosely over-sizing belt would be the already discussed problem of room in the bay. Would require shifting the engine back, right? Perhaps cost (not sure how much that'd cost), availability of belts/pulleys, and tensioning problems. All things that can be addressed but not very easily. Also I'd worry about wear on the crank from leverage on the end of the pulley.
  18. luseboy
    I don't think it should be relied on even to limp the car home, but I was thinking simply in the case of it throwing a belt, just to keep water moving after you turn the engine off/when you're pulling over to the side of the road to avoid excessive overheating. Even in stock form it wouldn't be possible to drive the car with a broken belt, at least for very long. In a Z-car it isn't over-pretentious to assume that a belt change on the side of the road would be possible if nothing else broke in the process, so at least this way it would give you the opportunity to simply install a new belt and be on your merry way again, albeit with a drained battery but at least your bearings would be intact! Make sure you make a limiter for that tensioner though, as if that belt does break, it wouldn't be too hard for that thing to take out the closest pulley, and possibly ruin an alternator, the timing cover, your supercharger, and itself in the process, leaving you stranded. As you said, it's a lot of force required to tension a serpentine correctly!
  19. luseboy
    What about having a remote electric water pump as well as some sort of serpentine one? That way at least you had some backup to stop the engine from overheating... The mini cooper s uses a remote water pump in conjunction with one driven by the timing chain (If i remember correctly, been a while since I went on the mini forums). Maybe you could just have one that you could switch on in the event of a belt breakage? That pulley is really cool though!
  20. luseboy
    Ya serpentine's need a lot of pressure. The belt tensioner on my mini cooper s (supercharged model) is quite hefty. I put a smaller pulley on my charger and needed about a 4 foot bar and some heft to get it un-tensioned. Would be interesting for someone to do a full serpentine conversion. Seems like a lot of work for little gain to me, but hey, what do I know? Is it possible to weld onto a dampened pulley? I have a powerforce crank pulley on my L28 and it only has 2 threaded holes on the outside... any way of attaching a serpentine pulley on the outside like you've done with the stock pulley?
  21. luseboy
    Sorry if I'm missing something, but are you saying you have stock LCA's with poly bushings? That's all I can figure. If your goal is to get caster, why not run T3 LCA's too? Then you can run lots of caster and the rod end can handle it just fine. Anyways I'm running the t3 LCA's and T/C rods, and I'm gonna be running a fair bit of caster to clear my custom dropped battery tray. I've heard of people having to cut around 3" per side off their air dams. I'm not too excited about that since I've got a G nose but oh well.
  22. luseboy
    Haha I did tow my car home with my dad's 4runner. It's a 2009 but a v6 none the less. Worked flawlessly, good thing he was driving too i'm nowhere near talented enough to drive well with a trailer, but ya 4runners are great for towing. I didn't have any extra parts in the back though, that's a bit more weight. I'm looking forward to the times when I can just pick up a couple extra engines and spare parts here and there and tinker with them in-between driving my Z. I still don't believe Z's were made to be driven, not mine anyways. It's meant to sit in my garage for an eternity as a "project". I'm still quite jealous of everyone on here who can acctually drive their Z's. I've never even been able to sit in the driver's seat and pretend I'm driving mine haha
  23. luseboy
    Hey Jeff, thanks for the reply. I already have front and rear brakes and 240z strut insulators. Sorry that I didn't see this before. -Austin
  24. luseboy
    Haha I biked to school one day successfully. Then the second day I tried it I got a flat tire 10 minutes into my ride. Figures since I have to ride by a construction zone to get to school... Oh well. Anyways I'll send you a PM about parts. So where's pictures of the new Z? How will you deal out having 2 Z's and a s2k? I've always wondered how people justified having more than one sports car... Personally I'm a proponent of having like 2 cars: a Z and a little datto pickup (once I sell my mini lol). So what are you going to do with 3 sports cars?
  25. luseboy
    I used a U-haul car trailer to tow my Z home (3 hour drive), it worked really well and was about $50. Maybe rent a pickup and a trailer from u-haul? Really wish I could get your shell and build it instead of mine, but maybe it will go to someone who will build it up really nice. Hit me up about parts, I'm in dire need of stuff haha. Funny you guys talking about commutes, guess i'm a bit lame on that. Didn't want to have a 45min commute every morning to school so I got an apartment lol. That said, parking at school takes about 45 minutes too so it would technically be an hour and a half commute, but with traffic on 101...
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