Georgia Flash

Hmmm...they did not have those types of bombs when I was in the Army!!!!

Pete, Were your ears burning today? Mike talked about your visit for the first ever SEZ Event and how you drove your car down to the meet. Even though we were in my town today and not his, he still showed me around a couple of parts stores that we visited. Again, he was a great help.

As I write this Mike (kz) is probably still trying to make his way back down to his home. I just wanted to say thank you to Mike for taking the time out of his Sunday to drive two hours to help a fellow Hybrid Z member out. With Mike’s help, we were able to get my Z started and more importantly running for the initial cam break in time (if that’s what its called). The car sounded good and strong but that is probably because there still is not any exhaust hooked up yet Mike I just want to say thank you for the good conversation, fellowship and most of all for the knowledge that you shared with me today. On a side note, we discovered that the resistor on the tach side of the distributor that came with my Camaro parts car worked fine with no noticeable tach needle jumping. We also discovered that spark plug wires go up like kindling when they get too close to the headers for any length of time Ice tea works real well for a fire extinguisher. Mike I hope one day soon to be able to repay the favor that you showed me today.

Thanks for all the compliments guys. I just got out of bed and started moving about this afternoon, had to pull an all nighter due to one of my shift supervisors having kidney stones. Heading out to the garage now Thanks again and by the way this has been said many many times before on this site but here goes again. I would not have been able to do alot of the things that I have done to my Z if it were not for this site...period! I'm quite sure that I will still be able to gain valuable knowledge from the various members here as my quest continues with the Z car.

Thanks guys, I will try and do the cam thing the right way. Mike I will have to try and make the SEZ, when is the dates again.

Wooohoooooo! I finally did it! I am the newest member of the V8 Datsun club! I found out why my starter was coming on when the juice was applied. I had accidentally brought all three wires together on the Summit starter, which gave power all the time to the solenoid. With that easy fix, I hooked up the battery and turned the key. A few rotations of the engine later and bam, the monster came to life! I have to admit that it scared me a little when it roared for the first time inside my closed garage. Now I want to call in sick to work today and tomorrow just to get her down off the jack stands and out onto the road. Man, this has been a long time coming. I will have to wait until Wednesday to get back out there. By the way, I heard David Stacey say on his show Trucks that when you finally crank your rebuilt motor you should run it at 2500 RPMS for a few minutes and not just let it idle. I think that he said it had something to do with the new cam or something. Anyway, I will take any advice that you guys can give on that subject. Man if yall could see my face right now

Problem found and fixed. The two terminals on the Summit starter are pretty close together and as luck would have it I had all three wires touching when I tightened them down and this caused my problem. Stay tuned for a new post describing my very happy moment that occurred a few minutes ago

My mistake, I meant to type white wire not white and red.

Guy, According to the JTR wiring diagram the black and yellow wire (wire #10) that used to go to the Z starter now goes to the “S†terminal on the Chevy starter solenoid. The white wire (wire #9) that went to the Z starter now goes to the larger terminal on the Chevy starter solenoid. And of course, the battery positive cable is hooked onto the starter. Wait! I think I may have answered my own question here…I currently have the white wire hooked to the large terminal along with the positive battery cable. This may be my problem. The Summit mini starter only has two terminals so I guess that I need to move the white wire to the solenoid to be with the black and yellow wire.

Update I tried to hook up the battery to the Z tonight for the first time and the car tried to start. It seems like someone else here had this same problem a while back and I tried to search but I could not find the post. So here goes. What have I got wired wrong to cause this? The car’s switch was in the off position but as soon as I hooked up the battery the engine turned over as if it was going to crank. I quickly disconnected the battery. Man oh man I am soooo close to having my Z running with the V8! Any help here will be greatly appreciated. By the way, I have a mini starter from Summit and have the black and yellow wire connected to the solenoid and the thick white wire hooked to the large post on the starter along with the positive battery cable. I did not see anywhere to hook a ground wire or the negative battery cable. I thought that the Z car had a place for the negative cable. I hope this helps describe my problem. Thanks in advance for the help.

I will try and double check with the parts store, I am heading that way now. Thanks for the input.

Thanks, I will go Dex II tomorrow.

This may be a dumb question but I was wondering which transmission fluid to use in my 700R4. Do I need Dextron II or Dextron III? The transmission is from a 1987 full size Chevy van if this helps any. Thanks. By the way if everything goes well in the morning I will try to fire up my V-8 Z for the first time.

Well maybe a little better anyway, at least I know that I wasn't the only one to fall victim lol. And at least they were cheap This is a good thread by the way, maybe it will help someone in the future like you said.

Tony, Glad to here that you are up and running. Remember I am an organ donar to that Z so everytime you take it for a spin I feel a bit tingley Congrats

Sandersons fit great. You may be right Awd92, those do look like the crappy ones I bought over a year ago and are now stuck with. The part number for the Sandersons through JTR (you can see them on their web site by the way) is DAT-402C. That is for the 1 5/8 primary ceramic coated headers that I bought. Nice fit and good looks to boot. I am also using the MSA mounts so they work with that set up as well as the JTR set up.

Sanderson's arrived last night. I test fit the driver's side and it looks like it will be fine without any contact with the Steering shaft. Have not looked at the passenger side yet but I am sure it will be fine. These headers are a lot tighter than my made in Taiwan "bock hugger type" ebay header were. They bend back towards the engine block whereas the others did not. I will update later on and try to post a pic after I bolt them on the Z.

Beware of the cheapo ebay headers. I too went this rout and to my dismay found out that they will not fit my Z. On the passenger side it hits the portion of the radious arm housing that is below the frame rail and on the driver's side it will not clear the steering shaft. I have a set of Sandersons on the way from JTR. I hope this works. I will keep you posted.

I have my MSA stuff all mounted in the car now and I have to say that the “drilling blindly†for the tranny mount holes did not work for me. I almost wound up making Swiss cheese out of my tunnel. The MSA drive shaft that I bought months ago was, you guessed it, too long for my application! I had to take it to the local driveline shop and have them cut it down to size. My car is a two seater 280Z so it was not a custom made to order shaft, as was Tony’s so it should have bolted right in right. Nope! I have said this before but this time I mean it. I will never buy anything else from MSA. They have sucked the last penny from me that they will ever get. By the way, the drive shaft fits well after the cutting, now all I have to do is find new nuts and bolts to bolt it to my differential flange. This is because the stock 14mm bolts are too short.

Hello folks, A little update on the project is in order here. I have not made a lot of progress in the last week due to me being in a class and working. I have hit a little bump in the road concerning the fit quality of the MSA drive shaft. It is too long! This really bummed me out because I pulled the 355 and repositioned it as far forward on the MSA mounts that I could by drilling holes about ¾ of an inch forward of the original holes and the drive shaft is still too long to fit. I will visit a local drive shaft shop tomorrow when I am off to see what can be done. I wonder if MSA sent me the wrong shaft? I am using their mounts on both the engine and transmission but their drive shaft is not going to fit without it being cut down. As far as the wiring goes, I may have it all figured out. However, I will not know for sure until I get it ready to fire up.

Considering it has taken me since December 2001 to get to this point you are probably right I will hit it hard tomorrow though after a good nights rest. I am dying to find out if I was successful while carving up my wiring harness

Well boys and girls...enjoy! I promised a pic if I got it in tonight and here she is. It sits a lot lower than I thought that it would. Of course I do not have my carb on yet. Maybe tomorrow

You are right Larry. The wiring thing has had me flustered from the beginning. I will try to get my engine and transmission in later today/tonight. I have the engine pretty much together now and I am taking a little break before heading back out into the garage. Hopefully, if all goes well, I will have pics of the V8 mounted in the car tonight. Man what a milestone that will be! Later, CB

Are you going to connect from the ignition through the fuel pump switch back to the fuel pump? Or, are you going to do like I did and go straight from the fuel pump to the Chrysler switch?