Georgia Flash

Thanks Mike and Paz8, I will head that way as soon as I get my dash bolted back in and the wires hooked back together. I finally got around to pulling the dash the other night to secure the speedo and tidy up the wires to the other Autometers. I am working on some type of custom plate for the fuel gage and of course the matching autometer clock. (It just wouldn't be a Z-car without a clock you know) Thanks again

Did a little more searching and found a post from 2003 where Mat73GNZ posted a list of differential ratios. According to the list the 1975-76 280Z came with a 3.545 R200 from the factory. If I could get a second on this I will see if I can correct my speedometer problem. Also if there is a way to verify this on the R200 housing or elswhere that would be helpful.

Good morning all, I have a question regarding the correct speedometer calibration gear to use. I searched this topic and found a post from 2002 discussing this very topic, however, it was talking about swapping a Datsun 4-speed for a 5-speed. I need to know about my set up. As most of you know I have the Chevy 355 and GM 700R4 set up. I also have an aftermarket Autometer speedometer. Right now the speedometer is way off. It appears to be about 20 to 30 mph off. For example when cuising at about 50-60 mph the thing reads about 100mph! I know that the rear end willl determine what calibration gear to use but I do not know what the rear end ratio is. It is a R200 in a 1976 Datsun 280Z if that helps. Oh and also where would I find the rear end ratio? If anyone with this set up has gone to Chevrolet and got the calibration gear help would be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie Ball

Mike, The alternator is the same as was on the 75 Camaro with the internal regulator; it actually has three wires going to it. Well it had three I removed the blue wire for the light in the volt gage simply because I do not have the Datsun gage anymore with the warning light. The part number for the alternator is P7127M3 through Advance Auto Parts. Funny I did not notice the battery drain the other day when I made the video. This was after I disconnected the blue wire and had charged the battery overnight. David, I have a 700R4 from a 1987 Chevy full size van. It too needs to be adjusted by a professional shop I am sure. crazy canuck Z8, I uploaded the video to Google for hosting. I also put it on a site called streetfire.net It has to be approved by the uploading site then all you do is cut and paste a copy of the link to the video here so people can go see it. It was very easy to do. Thanks for the comments guys.

Hi Mike, Yeah I know about the recent Georgia Hybrid meet but once again, I was working that day. I got your email but knew I could not go The last few months have been hectic to say the least. I went through a tough hiring process with the Sandy Springs Police Department that almost made me pull my hair out! Worse yet I got the job only to discover that it was going to take me two hours to get to work (due to traffic on I-75 and I-285) and two hours to get home. In addition, I did not like to idea of not knowing the area well enough to comfortably work there. The Sandy Springs area (North Atlanta) is a pretty intimidating place to work for an old country boy like me ha ha. So long story short, I decided to go back to Acworth where I will be more comfortable in my surroundings. I am also a couple of years away from being vested there. As for the Z, I have been experiencing charging problems whereas the car will slowly kill the battery even when idling. I am on my second battery and alternator. Do you remember the loud whistling sound coming from the engine when you were here? Turns out it was the alternator making the sound. I guess the bearings or something was messed up. I have been doing a little research on the site trying to chase down the problem. I will try to come to the next GA meet just keep me posted. If I have too I may take a sick day

Thanks for the feedback guys. You know its funny I cannot really get the thing to burn the tires like I thought it would but then again it does hook up really nice. I still need to get some carb guru to help me get it tuned just right. It is still running rich. I also want to go with an MSD ignition. The car still has the original dizzy from the 75 donor Camaro. Just has a new cap and rotor but the internals are the same. Need to get around to getting that taken care of. Thanks again guys, oh and by the way you can really here the engine/muffler at the end of the clip when the music dies out.

Yeah I could make one I have all of the original clips to do so. Was the video choppy for you or did it play without interuptions? I also have it on Streetfire.net but it is not ready yet. It may play better on that site.

Well I know I have not posted here in a long while but a lot has been going on in my life lately. I will not bore you with the details. Anyway I bought a digi cam the other day and here is my firs attempt at catching the beast for your viewing pleasure. Feedback is always welcome. Here is the link. I hope this works. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2998803884867375526 Oh I almost forgot be sure to let it fully load for the best viewing possible. Thanks

Cops do not use "CB Radios" so therefore you cannot hear them on CB radios. And no not even the ones in Semi Trucks. You would have to have a scanner to listen but now days most police departments have scrambled frequencies anyway.

Lewis, On my 76 the green is the ignition wire just as Jamie said. Just hooked my Auto Meter gages up the other day. Now to make a custom pod for two more gages

I am planning on making the trip this time also. Maybe by then I will have most of my bugs worked out in the Z.

Here is a picture of my first Z car a 1979 280ZX. It had a wide strip of metal across the roof that connected the two side pieces of aluminum nicely. By the way, I have always liked the side treatment of the ZX. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. Here is my second ZX that I owned. This car was a real beauty I wish I would have kept it.

I would suggest using blue on the top since you already have the engine bay painted blue. I just think that it would look better when you have your hood open. I probably would have suggested painting the top black and the sides blue if you had not painted the bay blue.

Is it just me or is that engine bay screaming for a V8! It looks plenty large enough to do. The little 4 banger looks extremely lost in there. I'm with Mike on this one.

You would get much more than 1800 on EBay I would think. Remember aim high there is always someone out there that would pay double what you are asking believe me.

Guy that was my thoughts as soon as you posted that you had painted over that beautiful blue engine bay with bed liner. But hey I figured to each is own right. That pic of your blue bay had me salivating for while. Thanks for the compliment Crema240z

Had mine done the other day, $275 from the headers back with a single 2-stage Flow Master.

No plans to lay any down soon. Still trying to get all the mechanics working properly. But, when I do get around to paint I think I have it narrowed down to three colors. Those colors are bright red, black or the original Datsun blue that was on the car when I got it.

Here is mine

No problems here either. I used the MSA mount system and did have to take the hammer to the passenger side tunnel for the cooling lines to fit but the firewall was fine. I am running the 700R4.

Update on the transmission hookup. I called the folks at JTR and the fellow told me that he did not think it mattered which line went where on the radiator. I told him that 700R4 transmission sites specifically state that the bottom fitting on the transmission is the out line to the cooler and the top fitting is the return line so it should matter where they hookup…right? I called Bowtie Overdrives and the person there said that on a side tank radiator, which is what I have from JTR, it does matter where the lines are hooked up. They said to run top-to-top and bottom-to-bottom. Meaning that the top line or return line on the transmission should run to the top fitting on the radiator and the bottom or out line should run to the bottom fitting on the radiator. They also went on to say that on radiators where the cooling lines hook at the bottom that it does not matter which line goes where. Go figure.