Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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There are 2 vented rotor calipers. 86-95.
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You won't have any more of a problem with fuel with an AIC set up as carbed guys have. Injectors spray pretty fine and the air is moving pretty fast on boost. My power was pretrty good with it:smile:. I've run an AIC on 2 cars and a truck. I just took an HKS AIC on off my 73' Z. I could never get it lean enough up top without being too rich on the bottom, or vice versa, PITA compared to the safr I have now. I would go with larger injectors and an safc or safr. You can pic up those piggy backs used pretty cheap too.
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What Kind Of Power And Power Characteristics Would A Motor Like This Have? The 240 And The Off Boost 280 Both Have Poor Low End So Whats To Loose
You will loose power. The smaller motor will have even less torque. Torque is desirable, especially on a street car.
I would never ever give up displacement. Ask anyone who has done the stroker L6's if they are happier with there new found power. There is a 2.5 and a 3.0 version of the Toyota JZ motor. One has a shorter stroke. Yes it revs a little higher but guess which one makes more HP and TQ.
If you were racing in a class that limited you on displacement then it would be easier to use the L28 block and pistons with an L24 crank.
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I went 2.5"/2.75" while my friend went 3"/3". We both have the same the same 3" in/out intercooler and engine. On a second or third gear roll we both come on boost so close to the same time you can't tell the difference. On a stock turbo it is over kill but if you have the tubing you may as well use it. The turbo size really doesn't mean as much as how much air you are moving through it. Your set up (T3/4) at 20 psi would move more air than a T66 at 10 psi.
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2fiddyz's car with 5zigens.
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Here's another point...the RB26 will be at your target HP levels in basically stock form whereas the L28ET will be nearing it's max potential.
True.
An RB26 is about at it's max as far as fuel and turbo at 400rwhp though. An L6 with larger turbo and fuel can easily do 400 reliably with stock internals. An L6 doesn't need anything special to be reliable, just don't run a small turbo and expect big numbers. If you ever want more than 400, the RB26 would definetly be a better choice but you'll need to spend more than the initial swap to do it.
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The internally regulated Hitachi is an easy swap. You could have a dead cell though too. But a voltmeter on the battery, It should be atleast 12.5 + with the engine off. Watch the voltage when you try to crank it. It shouldn't drop much. Same with turning the headlights on. I pulled my hair out once with a battery that would take a charge but not start the car. Voltage was always good until I checked when cranking.
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Suspension Techniques.
I don't know. They were gold before I painted them undercover black;-). The last set of ST bars I saw were gray. Did they used to paint or plate them gold?
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Cool, thanks.
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Clifton, is that a stock swaybar just turned around?
No, aftermarket. I don't know the brand though. It was on a 240 parts car I have. It was a behind the diff bar on that too, just had aftermarket brakets.
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On the bottom of the spread sheet is mention of Ron’s voltage test comparing an Escort VR sensor to the 4.0 V-6 Explorer VR sensor on a spinning Escort 36-1 wheel at varying RPMs. The Explorer 36-1 wheel this sensor came from measures approx 3.7†or thereabouts. It appears that we just may have to acquire an Explorer 36-1 for more testing.
Is there a benifit to the higher voltage of using the Explorer VR sensor? I've read that the EDIS has an rpm limit. With EDIS4 higher than the 8, and 6 in the middle. Did you test max rpms? Do you think the Explorer VR would give a higher rpm or is it the module that limits it?
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I wanted to keep the stock mustache bar as I don't run a solid front diff mount and need the twist the stock bar has. I'm sure others have wondered if this would work with the stock bar too. I had to notch it to clear but not much. Where it is notched is still wider than the ends just before it mounts to the body.
With sway bar installed
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ok, i've just recently been having problems starting the car with my PC680. i suspect the alternator may be bad (will switch out tuesday). anything else i should look out for? i'm installing a battery cut off in case there is somehow an amperage draw somewhere in the system.
I would check the voltage with the engine running and off. It would be quicker than swapping an alternator and narrow down the problem.
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Doubt it. The VQ trans won't bolt to a VG. The Z32 is a VG.
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I am getting new tires for my '73 240Z and I have been told that the Kumho 712's are one of the best.
Not unles high mileage is your goal. I guees it depends on how you drive the car and what you do with it. They were way to hard for me. Sold them with less than 2k miles on them. Look at Falken Azenis, much softer but still a street tire.
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They look like 440's. I just sold a set. Alot of Supra guys go bigger and with the square plug. They just throw away the stock plug (I did). You could probably find some on supraforums.com or supramania.com
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I used Rust Mort. You can get it at auto body shops. It does contain acid.
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I can. If you are too rich it will add alot of lag. I like mid 12's even low 13's don't bother me till the boost gets up there, then a little richer. Not enough timing will also do the same.
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Put a straight edge on it or have a machine shop check it. If it's out just a little I would not shave it. If it's warped and you cut the bottom you'll have to cut the top too. If you do surface it and just take a little off, you can run it without shims.
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You need to measure the inducer and exducer to find out what trim it is. .60 doesn't tell us anything other than the housing a/r. You can put the cold side on the T3. The T3 side is still a restriction and the standard T3 turbine wheel is kinda small. The T4 most likely has a P trim turbine. You would be better off power wise getting your .63 housing machined to fit the larger wheel and use the other complete turbo.
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The dish will be the same as the turbo pistons. Only difference is the ring lands. Your C/R with the P90 on your 78 block will be the same as an L28ET. I run less than 7.4:1.
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Well the reason I want to run cast pistons is because if detonation occurs it will poke a hole in the piston and not shatter like a hypereutectic piston would. Right? I would rather run cast pistons under detonation than hypers because once a hyper piston shatters it goes all through the engine and pretty much messes up everything. If I'm wrong on that please correct me. I don't have a problem at all paying $320 for a set of forged 8.**:1 pistons but once again I think there's another (not necessarily better) way.
I run cast pistons too. Cast pistons are weaker, although forged or cast both will not tolerate prolonged deto. Ring lands will break first if it knocks and you can't hear it to get out of it. Here the highest pump is 91.
To say, I did it with 87 octane is like saying I race without a seat belt. You can do it but why take the risk? It isn't going to impress anyone and it isn't worth risking a motor for bragging rights. If you don't knock you'll be on the edge of it. It will eventually get you.
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That ebay T70 isn't the same as everyone elses T70. It is not even a 70mm wheel. It's 60.5mm.
Why 87 octane. You know what detonation does, especially to cast pistons? It's asking for probelms. If 91 is too expensive I would skip the turbo idea.
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I just finished the same brake kit and have heard mixed opinions as to where the proportioning valve should be mounted. Ive heard that these fronts will over power anything in the rear so install it in the fronts line to allow more bias to the rear.Ive seen them installed inside the cab against the tunnel indicating the rears are proportioned.Ive heard you both dont and do have to gut the stock valve.If there is a definative answer to these mixed opinions, please advise.
You want it on the rears. There is less braking required from the rears so you need to limit the rear pressure. I like mine in the cab. Easier to fine tune. I left the stock valve ungutted on both cars. I can set it to lock the fronts or rears first.
Is there a clutch for a 225mm L6 under 225HP for $350 or less?
in Drivetrain
Posted
I run a Clutchspecialties 4 puck and PP with a 225mm flywheel. It will easily hold the torque if you don't mind the lack of a marcel and instant grab.