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Posts posted by Clifton
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Did this just happen or was it after the brake swap?
Regardless of the pad you shouldn't have any problem locking up a tire with those brakes, especially if you are running street tires. I have had a bad vacuum booster and I had a hard time stopping, even pushing as hard as I could still wouldn't lock a tire.
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You can run alot more than 22 psi on a stock block if you have the octane for it. You are right about the detonation.
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Q: How do you mount a rear sway bar with those chrom-moly control arms? I see no attach point.
On the back side of the toe adjustment, the point of the triangle, there is a female threaded hole to attach a rod end with a bolt. I thought he includes them with the arms but could be wrong.
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There are some maps here. http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/maps/all.html
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On the 5spds it's 5th gear that's the weakest. Other than that I would think they are the same, strength wise.
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You'll have to re-adjust the backlash. Get a dial indicator and base. Harbor Freight has them cheap. With 2 diffs you should be able to make the shims work. I did.
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Some will but not all, the lean burn econo engines.
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You don't have to. I don't know how much power you are putting down but negative camber doesn't help straight line traction. The more you lower the rear the more neg camber you'll put in it. IF you have c/o's you could avoid going to low.
Do I have to use camber plates? I am looking at straight line performance and cruising mainly. Besides that I am on a pretty tight budget. I was hoping to put Tokico Illuminas on all four corners and the camber plates will foil that plan.The only reason I am going to coilovers is for rear clearance issues.
Mike
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I have them. At first I just put them in stock, no rewire. They weren't as bright as they should have been. Checked voltage, it was really low so I wired in a a couple of relays and got fused power from the battery. My P lights are on when the lights are on though, just light stock.
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It can be pressurized and has been done, it just can't measure the density of the air moving through it.
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MKIV Supras do. MKIII's use the R154.
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There a few places in Australia that make belhousings for the 1UZ's and R154's. A stock R154 clutch will easliy hold 400 rwhp/tq. The R150/R151 are trucks boxes. Very few people break them.
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Nice. Lets see some more pics of the car. Are you going to trim the rear fender under the flare?
got the AZC kit recently too plus wheels tires and bearings and the LCAs.my wallet is recovering for those coilovers though.
pics.
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You can fit a 9" wheel without flares. I run 8" springs 250f/280r. No problems.
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Personally I prefer a slight oversteer loose feel when the car is in full drift. Grew up in MN winters where you learn to corner with the throttle when the front tires almost become useless braking on black ice. To this day I refuse to buy a front wheel drive car for that reason alone.
Taking the rear bar off will reduce oversteer. Also you can set up a FWD car to be loose.
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Looks really nice. How many hours do you have in them?
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Does it matter if you are tuning for WOT or part throttle when trying to acheive these ratios or does it change when tuning from WOT to part throttle?
Thanks' date='
Guy[/quote']
Part throttle/cruise should be in the 14.7:1 range. If you have O2/ cloosed loop, it will try to keep it there.
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It's an unauthorized charge. Don't even call the tool company. Call the CC company. I had an issue with Clutchspecialties not refunding me, after the second call and no results I gave up. Called Visa and they took care of it. make sure you know who you talked to and when. They will ask.
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Can't see em.
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Looks good. I've sat in a 350Z a few times. Those seats are comfortable and have pretty good support. Did you happen to weigh it before the install?
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I have check on Arizona Z website and they have a 2" shorter Koni catridge. Wonder how that works. Has anyone use them?
Thanks again.
LL
I'm running them in the front and my fronts in the rear. You will need to section the struts to use them and then run coil overs. If you have Koni red DA's in the front, stick some in the rear and get another set of springs. I guess you could just run some aftermarket rears but who knows what rate you have in front. I would think the car would push pretty good right now with stock rears. If have a pair of rear DA Koni's if you are looking for some.
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You shouldn't do it for the reasons already listed, but people do blow through them and hot wire sensors.
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He put alot of work in it. I wouldn't say he copied though. His is 6-3-2-1. James is 6-1 They both run forward but that looks like the only similarity.
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If you only drive your car in good weather, you probably don't put alot of miles on it a year. I would run something a little softer and enjoy the ride instead of getting a tire that will probably become hard before it wears out. Falken Azenis are probably the best street tire as far as traction and Toyo RA1's if you want to stick a little better and don't mind a little more wear.
240z 4spd handles 350hp+
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Me too.