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Clifton

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Posts posted by Clifton

  1. The borrom fitting, closest to the valav is to open it. This goes to the compressor or manifold. The top fitting is if you want to instal a boost controller, regulator types works good.. If you add say 10 psi to the top and have an 8 psi spring. You will now have 18 psi of boost. If you are just going to run it with the WG spring in it and are happy with that pressure leave the top open.

  2. If you are just adding the coil over sleeve. You can rest it on the stock spring perch. Either cut off the perch and leave just a lip ( what I did) or leave the whole perch. If you are going to section you need the strut inserts first to know how much to cut. I would go to a muffler shop if you are sectioning. Try a race shop or 4X fab shop. I posted some before and after pics of mine a few weeks ago.

  3. I just noticed in the post that many of you are looking at the AFR's when tuning with water injections. This can be very very very deceiving unless you have your wideband calibrated to read the correct stoic. Lots of information on this over on the innovate forums.

     

    It is better to tune with lambada' date=' that way it doesn matter how the water/methanol/alcohol has effected your the stoic of the fuel.[/quote']

     

    LM1's are calibrated with free air. Fuel type doesn't matter. I find it easier to look at the AFR rather than Lambda as I know at a quick glance that say 13.8 is too lean under WOT. I would have no idea what that would be in Lambda without learning what the equivilant AFR is or looking at the AFR.

  4. Desert Palms is full, or atleast the deal rooms are gone. Were is everyone staying that isn't staying there. I don't want to be the only Z in the parking lot :( . I was think of going back to the place that MSA had the deal with last year.

    _________________

  5. I talked to Lost. Seemed like a nice guy. He said the lack of interest was dissapointing and isn't interested in making them unless 10-15 people were really interested. I don't think that will happen as there wasn't enough people before. I'll get this engine pulled in the next few weeks and find out what it will cost to get some made.

  6. He used the w55 -w58 toyota 5 speed. I dont know what clutch. I will ask but I wont see him untill next week.

     

    Douglas

     

     

    That's ok. The W58 isn't the strongest trans. They are used on the n/a Supra's.

     

    mtcookson.... Is this through Lost? I have seen quite a few posts on many boards were someone asked something and he never responded. He never responded to me either.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    .

  7. zguy36' date='

     

    I was sure this was already in a post but I can't find it. So:

     

    [img']http://ozdat.com/forum/files/enginebay-gt35_141.jpg[/img]

     

    Yes the turbo is braced. I can undo the bolts to the manifold and the turbo sits in place. But it can still move forwards and backwards to allow for heat expansion in the headers.

     

    Not a readily available manifold, once off custom job built entirely by previous owner. Wish it had been my idea. Oh well.

     

    Dave

     

    They needed some turbo mounting 101 class. Poor angle on the turbo. If it doesn't smoke I'm sure the front bearing and thrust washer will go after a short time.

  8. The easiest way, if you are just looking for quick and reliable is to weld 2 tabs to the front and rear of the top portion of the mount and run a bolt through the tabs under the crossmember. Leave about 1/8-3/16" between the bolt and crossmember. It will even work with a torn diffmount. It will only transmit noise under heavy torque but you won't hear it as the engine will be making more noise than that at the time. Mines been on for about 2 years and I haven't had any problems with it.

     

    diffmount8ng.jpg

  9. I don't know a price yet. I just wanted to see if there was any interest first before pulling the VH out of my parts car and bringing him the trans. Lost was going to charge $500. So I can't see it being more than that.

     

    ZROSSA... What Supra trans? R154? Do you know what clutch he was going to use with it?

  10. The adapter is the only thing keeping me from starting this swap. From an earlier thread, Lost was going get some adapters made to attach it to a Z32 TT 5spd. He needed 10 people. I don't know what happened to this. I PM'd him but haven't heard back. I was going to use the Z32 N/A 5 spd as they are internaly the same, more abundant, and alot cheaper than the TT trans. I know someone that can make them but I would need to get more than one made to make it worth doing. Is anyone still interested in these?

  11. In my opinion' date=' the bling factor for a fuel tank is in the fuel cell. I guess it just seems like a lot of trouble to mod the stock fuel tank for something like this. If you mod the stock tank, might as well do an easy mod (for me would be the external sump).

     

    I truly like your idea of the intake pump and stuff, but that skill level is out of my reach. :([/quote']

     

    It really isn't that hard of a mod. Couple hours of work.

  12. I know this post is a little old but. The weld to the bottom sumps will have starvation in corners. In a stock type baffled tank setup the return line feeds the baffle/trap were the pump is. In a turn very little fuel by the motor and the and the remainder is fed back to the pump in it's baffle. With that weld on sump the returned fuel is just dumped back in the tank, not to the pump inlet. It would only take a second to use what little fuel is trapped in the sump that hasn't sloshed to the side of the tank and then it would pull air. This is assuming the car is hard in a corner and isn't running full of fuel. The intank pumps with baffle is the best design, that's why every car maker uses it. Z31 and MKIII's have great doner tank to get the baffles and pump hangers out of and Walbro pumps are about $90. The link pparaska put up would be good too. With an intank setup I can autocross with 3 gallons and not have any problems with fuel pickup.

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