zohanisback

Bahaha... I was reading through the posts until I saw Taryn had signed up and busted up on the floor laughing. Lol, you guys crack me up.

I would check ohms at gauge if you can get to the wiring without much trouble. Check it full and then once you know it should be between 1/4 and 1/2 tank. If the ohms are within spec, you are probably looking at a new gauge. Could be a faulty sender out of the box though, too. It does happen. Either way, I don't know anything about fixing gauge drift or recalibration. If the problem happened before you replaced the sender, too, then probably not the sender, but if it got worse after replacing the sender, it could be the sender or corroded wires. Check connections on both ends, too. Corrosion increases resistance, so it can play into the measurement as well. Here are some posts that might help: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread2308.html http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/47992-fuel-guage-calibration.html

I PMed you GB20. Not sure what my ultimate plans are, but I'll keep my options opened as far as getting rid of the thing goes. Started undoing the wiring harness and I'm starting to think about removing all the front components as Gollum said. If I really just laid into it, I could have the engine out in an hour. But time constraints due to school suck at the moment. But I like the idea of pulling the whole thing at once, and the tranny is empty at the moment, so I don't have to worry about spills too much.

Do it! I would love pics. I've already contacted some members here and on other z forums to see what ideas they have some up with. One guy did a double din in the center console part of the "dash." Looked awesome. Thanks! I have had a blast so far with both (though both are hard)! But seriously...there are thousands of Zs out there and I can't believe there are no build threads with custom or newer dashes swapped in. Time to shake off the old dust and upgrade (especially with the way my dash looked. Ok, I'll stick with the stock heater core than probably. Though if I could find an equally effective, smaller one, I would not mind cutting down on size. This project is going to require some serious reduction in under-the-dash components. Removing the old gauge clusters will be a good start.

I'm actually swapping in more powerful parts, adding A/C, reconfiguring the wiring, etc. It's gonna be tons of work, but I want more powerful climate controls. The goal is to mount everything to the interior "firewall" or custom brackets, then just pop the fiberglass dash over it and hook up an "umbilical cord" running from the dash controls to the firewall. Hopefully I can hook up one big bundle of connectors and call it good. As far as climate control knobs go, still working on that part. I would like to be able to swap in vacuum controlled actuators, but that's still up in the air. As far as gauges go, I need to work on a sketch, but I basically want a rounded style main instrument cluster with the gauges more coherent, then a 3-gauge pod above middle console, and maybe 2 more to the left of the center console. We'll see. Suggestions? That said, I'm swapping in an LS1 engine and was thinking of upgrading heat cores. How powerful are the stock ones? I always noticed mine was pretty warm, but still took a while to heat the car (could have been clogged, who knows?). But I will start a build thread in interiors once I start the mold making. Keep you guys updated! I'm in med school right now...so not a lot of time. Every other weekend except for breaks.

I don't know if we're "allowed" to post progress threads, but I'm doing it for the heck of it and if it's not allowed, just delete it. That said, I didn't put it in the interior section since it's more of a general update and nothing technical. Idk... Screw it. Decided to remove my dash because I needed the metal frame to form a reverse mold of a fiberglass dash I am building. Something more modern and with double din in it. Will require heavy behind-the-dash modification, but it will be worth it. Trying to aim for something along the lines of a PVC leather wrapped RX8/WRX dash. Anyway, it's going to be tons of work, but I've seen exactly zero pictures of modern dashes in Z cars (save that one 240sx dash someone did that was just OK), so I'm going to hopefully be one of the few... Here are pics of it pulled. Wow was it dirty. And man, these dashes are a pain with all the little wires and controls everywhere, lol.

Ok thanks guys. Yeah, I'm not sure I would even sell it, and it's definitely because I need something decent for my car. But since I would be going through the work of making it, why not make a mold to share if others wanted to "escape" the stock dash everyone uses. The question is, could I fiberglass the outside of the dash with modifications in place, then gel coat the "back side" (the side that was adhered to the dash) and use that as my reverse mold? I've heard of people using foam and whatnot, but the idea of a gelcoated fiberglass mold strikes me as easier. Not sure if it's been done with dashes, but seems like one of the better options as opposed to foam shaping an entire reverse mold for a dash (then again, with some bondo as a cover, might be a good option for a reusable mold). What do you fiberglass buffs think?

Ok... I might just skip the body filler... Idk. Maybe a basic coat and sand. I do not intend on using spray paint (horrors!!!!!), I'll be shooting it with an actual spray gun. Probably just thinking of using some high quality auto primer. Idk if I want the gas tank shiny with a base and clear coat. Any recommendations on paint? I've looked all over google, but having a hard time finding something that will work and last a long time with gas tanks. Should I use a urethane (still shiny once finished) or base coat with maybe one layer clear?

Pretty much just fixing it up and selling it. Has some minor pitting from rocks and negligible amounts of surface rust. Should I use body filler to get it perfectly smooth, or just prime and paint the thing? What do you guys think? Maybe just a decent urethane paint? Should I still use the body filler? Thanks!

Very nice! I wish I were at this stage at the moment. But agreed, packages make the weekend SOOOO much better!

Whatsup guys? A while ago (long while ago) I posted on one of the Z forums about making a fiberglass dash for the z cars that was modernized. The effort needed to install the dash would be considerable because the dash would fit with some modification, and would require rerouting of major electrical and air control/vent components. The end result would be something comparable to a WRX or RX8 styled dash, with the goal of pulling out the inverted angled radio area of the Z car and pushing the entire dash back about 1-2". Added to the car would be a double din, better vented defrost, rounded style air vents and possibly unified instrument cluster. While I love the Z car, something has always bothered me about the dashes they have, so I feel it's time to do a facelift. Here's the question: Would there be enough interest to make multiple dashes? Would you guys make a reverse mold of the dash for multiple copies (as opposes to just coating the current dash in fiberglass with mods)? I know you can technically just fiberglass over a dash and install it, but technically it's a tiny bit bigger than the original, so I would rather make a reverse mold, then be able to make multiple copies for others, if interested. Dawgggggggonit though, this would take so much modification of the existing under-the-dash components (air control, lights, air vents, gauges, etc).

Huh... Well Idk what the guy did to this car, but I know that with the auto 3 speed, putting the gas in a couple mm would slam you back in your seat. When I swapped in the 5 speed, I had to drop the clutch fast right as I tapped the gas a tiny bit to keep from burning the clutch. Of course after first gear, it was like a normal car, but the starting torque was RIDICULOUS. As you mentioned, maybe the car was abused in its previous life. Who knows? I suspected maybe he cammed the engine, but I have no idea. I always attributed it to the webers. Either way, the diff is definitely done, and since my goal is 400+ on the LS1, I feel like an R200 LSD is in order. If you know someone in need...

Finally starting to happen guys. I am now working on taking out the L26 engine in prep for the LS1 and body work needed to start this project. The L26 has triple webers on it and the torque they produced on this engine tore through my diff... Time to upgrade all around. I loved the triple webers and L26 (only 90k on the engine, too!), but I'm gonna love the LS1 more, I think. Anyway, gotta try to find an LS1 with comparable miles to the chassis (around 90k) and ditch the current drivetrain to fund the next project. I'm figuring on just yanking the whole engine/harness/tranny. Any tips on the removal? I unbolted the webers/intake to make it easier, but I couldn't see engine lift points off the bat.

Sounds like a linkage to me. I find that the linkages get old and break after a while. On my Datsun I intend to upgrade the vent system with something a little more...custom. Plan on doing fab for better linkages and vents.

Isn't that the definition of a Lambo? Just kidding....

Oh sweet. There are some nice setups there. I'm actually pretty excited about this because I have a two car garage, but this will allow me to move the datsun into the middle and out of the way as I work on it and other cars.

Correct. Once placed, they stay in and you reduce risk of stripping the head threads out. Here is a youtube video which helps show the procedure for installing a stud:

I'll take one of each please. Except for Jaspers', he has too many for my garage. Gorgeous cars guys, thanks for sharing. Just figured out what I've been missing not being on this forum the last year. lol

Dershum, Those pics are just what I need. Thanks for posting them! It's gonna make working on this car so much easier. haha, this has to be one of the most ingenious things I've ever seen.

Well that's the thing. 200-300 seems a little low with a nice, triple carb setup. 2-1 intakes, etc.... I think the carbs alone are worth close to 600. The whole setup runs great, and I just drove it 1200 miles last year. What do weber carbs usually go for?

Hopefully this won't get flagged as I am NOT selling this drive train, I'm simply curious as to what the worth is if I do sell it in the next year to help with LS1 expenses. I REPEAT, not for sale right now. Now that we've taken care of that... L26 engine. Triple Webber carbs (super torque). You can hardly start the engine slow as a little gas = big jerk. I always started rolling with easy clutch, no gas. Transmission is a 5 speed swapped from a 79 280zx 2+2 NA (I believe). Engine doesn't leak a drop of anything and has roughly 90k on it. Runs super good, started every time. Transmission does leak slowly and needs more oil, but I'm pretty sure it's still good (drained until I noticed it wasn't shifting smooth anymore). IDK guys, how much are these worth?

I just don't trust Harbor Freight that much... My car should way less than 1800 lbs with the motor and tranny out, but 2+ tons on harbor freight quality stuff, IDK about that. But if you've done it with their stuff, good for you!

That's a fantastic idea, actually. These cars are light enough for it. Gotta love the perks of joining car forms (I have an account for every make owned).

Then that is what shall happen. Yeah, that's my one and only problem with these vehicles, weak frame (and as I know now, can't take it off). But that's alright, I have big plans for it, so I'll tear her down anyway.

Hey guys. Looking at pulling the body off the "frame" so I can sandblast and reinforce the frame for a V8 swap. Is it possible to do this and do you guys know of any good pics or write-ups? The frames on these cars are a bit....lacking, and I wasn't even able to find anything that suggests they can be removed. Any suggestions?