Tony240ZT

I have to move soon, so I'm in a rush to get the car together, so some progress has been made over the last couple of weeks. It's more of "join all of the pieces together as quickly as possible without getting the car running" sort of thing at the moment.

Are you pulling the 7M altogether? Moving? You get quite a bit more time dedicated to car things, so it must be pretty serious. I did pick up quite a few goodies for xmas and bday combined including some 630cc/min fuel injectors, optima battery, quaife helical lsd for the R200, and some really nice seats from one of those Smart cars. Thanks to the guy on here that had pictures of them. I like how they are similar to the original seats but provide more side support. I have this week off to get some things installed, but first the wife's vehicle just started leaking antifreeze. So, that'll need to be addressed.

And... got that back together at least. I've been prepping the engine compartment for paint. Nearly ready.

I caught my car crying about being put back together, so I had to stop what I was doing, wipe up the tears and tear apart something that I thought was good. Turns out one of the rear brake piston seals was cracked. $90 for a rebuilt caliper over at O'Reilly's down the street, wife loves to bleed the brakes. I tell her it's a good exercise.

Thanks to jeeper42 for the idea on walnut shell blasting my engine compartment. It gets all over like sand does, but is easier to clean up and I was able to polish some aluminum and plated parts without ruining their finish. The walnut shells will take off paint down to the base primer, and only goes down to bare metal if you sit there for a long time. I removed the battery tray and replaced some metal under there, and have filled in all of the unnecessary holes. Close to painting the engine compartment. I have a quaife helical lsd ordered for the R200, I'll have a pro install it.

Thank you for pointing that out! Luckily the shop still had my core. What a PITA

Tried to install the diff this morning. Ran into an issue with one of the CV's being too long. More details here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123182-280zx-turbo-cv-too-long-whats-going-on/

I have MM companion flange adapters with an R200 and 280zx turbo cv's in my 240Z. My right side boot was torn, so I picked up a rebuilt replacement. The typical PepBoys/AutoZone don't carry these any longer, so I was happy to have found one. On the table at the shop I compared the best I could. The new one did seem a little longer there, but it also had a stronger return spring in it and the rubber boots were much more elastic, so I thought that's what accounted for the added length. I go to installing it today and it's around 2 inches too long. The splines pop in just fine and the companion flange is the same. So, the ends are identical to what I had, but the length is obviously different. I've been sitting on this shaft for a while, not sure if I can return it at this point. Given what I've described does anyone know what I have? Could this shaft be from a Z31? I may have to sell it to recoup some of my cost, but don't know what its application would be. In the picture I have the new one (bottom) that I was installing on the right side of the car and the left one (top) that fits fine.

I'm mounting the fuel pump and filters in the location where the 280z's have them tucked up under the car behind the passenger area. Welded up a small mount that can be isolated from the frame and bolted on as a unit. The fuel lines are run up in the trans tunnel. I tack welded some nuts as anchor points then used those rubber insulated clamps for the SS wrapped lines. I have a few short runs of fuel line to make, but the customized tank is reinstalled, diff will go back in this coming weekend. I'll clean up the engine compartment before dropping the engine/trans in.

Some parts are starting to come in. The fuel system is the first thing to get out of the way. I was going to run new hard lines, but changed my mind since it's a bit easier to install some PTFE line. I went with a 100 micron ss washable mesh pre filter, the GM post filter adapter kit from driftmotion.com. I removed the stock fuel damper and FPR from the rail and used 12mmx1.25 -> -6AN flare and 14mmx1.5 -> -6AN flare adapter. My old Walbro 255 (GSL392) should still be able to do the job. The V band clamp is for my down pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust. I had a leak there before.

Yeah, I picked up a spare inspection lid and drilled the holes in it. Hooked it up to a banjo fitting to the fuel rail, may have been the place where the starter injector used to be hooked up to. Got an external mount kit for the gauge and painted it all to match the body.

This happened over the weekend. Getting the old one out of the way so that I can clean up the engine bay and run the fuel lines in the trans tunnel. My 2 1/2 year old stood by to watch. I have the diff out as well at the moment so I can run the fuel line over the top.

Also from Modern Motorsports/Ross the calipers are from a 240sx and rotors from a 280zx. Looks like they still offer the adapter http://www.modern-motorsports.com/z-rear-disc-cnc-brake-brackets.html

I have 280ZX turbo CV half shafts with adapters from Modern Motorsports coming out of the R200. Swapped over to some disc brakes at the same time and no more old rubber bushings anywhere.

I'll have the new engine swapped in before summer and shortly after that it should start. Most everything is still in place since it last ran, crossing my fingers that the electronics are good. I just went through the brakes. I'll try out this ACT clutch I got with the engine, and hopefully this transmission the guy says he rebuilt is in good shape. I was having a bit of an issue with ignition before. I think my cam position sensor signal was weak, or one of my junk yard igniters are bad, so there may some bugs to sort out. Overall the goal is to be on the road before the end of the year. I had issues with traction, so before I put a set of new rubber on the car I'd like to get some flares and wider tires. My suspension should still be in good shape since all of the bushings are urethane. My next large task after running the new fuel lines will probably be fitting the car with a new radiator and oil cooler. Along with fabricating a shroud. I see you can just buy them, but it's hard not to save a few bucks and do it myself now that I have the welder. Before when the car was running I drilled and tapped the drain plug on the gas tank, ran a 90 degree elbow off of it to the pump over 3/8" line to the engine, then the return line went into the original feed line and plugged the old return line. That seemed to work fine for my setup, maybe that could work for you?

What's left to get your car going again? Back when the car was running I didn't have access to a video camera. Now any phone has that capability, thinking about it that way sure does make it sound like it was a LONG time ago. Tank is back from the radiator shop after $150. Coated on the inside and repainted. It's ready to go in. Still need to run those lines under the car.

I didn't give up on the old tank. Turns out a lot of that orange was some form of dried up fuel sludge. I knocked out most of it with a wire wheel, then sand blasted the parts I couldn't reach. Built in a coffee can looking cylinder for the baffle, and replaced the fuel lines with 3/8". Used the TIG welder to mend it back together. I think it'll work. I have it dropped off over at the radiator shop again to have them coat the inside and do a leak test on it. Next is to run the new fuel line under the car.

I had my gas tank cleaned (this is the second time since I've owned the car), this time just enough to get the gas fumes out so that I could open it up to install some more baffling and install an in tank pump. Upon closer inspection of its condition it's obvious the tank will not be usable. Either from rust attacking it, or from the acid baths it has a ton of tiny divots and channels etched into the metal. The exterior looks great, so that was a surprise. I've purchased a TIG welder from Eastwood. I got the 200amp AC/DC unit, so my first large welding project will be building an aluminum gas tank that will fit in the stock location so that I don't have to cut out the wheel well.

I know this is a very old thread, but I found it to contain information that was relevant to my project, so I tried contacting Boyd's about constructing one of these tanks for me and this is the response I received from them today: So, I guess I won't be having them build it for me.

Over 10 years ago I finished up my 7m-gte swap (and hybridz is still here!): http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/37143-tonys-toyota-7m-gte-in-his-72-240z-hybrid-turbo/?do=findComment&comment=296543 I only got a few hundred miles out of it before blowing the head gasket and scaring one of the cylinders. My intentions were to get it rebuilt right away, but life got in the way. I now have a fully built long block to swap in, so I'll try and keep you updated. Or find me on Instagram @turbo240z

Looking forward to seeing it running, and hopefully mine back up and running this year.

It's been a long time since I've been active. I hope you're project has progressed more than mine. If you're still interested let me know. I've since sold the L28ET car and have kept the 7M, although it hasn't been running. The 7M car was built to be a beast, and the L28ET just had some minor tuning work done. In the end there was a HUGE gap in investment. I swapped out the tired L24ET before selling for a L28ET.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to clear things up here. I have an unknown year brake and clutch pedal setup in my `72. The clutch and brake are too close for comfort at the moment and I'd like to get this corrected. Can anyone chime in on what I have currently what I need to replace it with to get the correct layout. I'm assuming I have later model pedals here in an older vehicle?