Tony240ZT

Hey guys, it's been about 2 years since my car has been sitting in the garage with the supra motor, I've collected some dust. I didn't like the mounts I had made up, one side sagged a little and they weren't that strong looking, so I've redone them up, and I think these are better. My welder seems like it's bout ready to die so I tried my best by doing little tack welds on them.. This one is the driver's side, I cut out the old mount support on the cross over, then mounted the supra rubber mount directly onto the cross member. Don't mind the dust I'm doing a little bit of body work on the engine compartment. Passenger side is using the existing engine support mount Valve covers are aligned well with the hood latch support The engine is as far back as it can possibly be, this is because the tranny seems short. This probably helps as far as weight transfer as well. Tranny shifter comes out a little further foward than stock Here are some goodies to bolt onto the car: I am making up a custom intake manifold to have the throttle body coming out the front of the engine, this requires that I lower the alternator about an inch. I've seen someone do this before and it looks pretty easy. Well worth the shorter intercooler piping and less pick up of heat by keeping the intake piping away from the exhaust. For those of you who haven't seen the car before here is a photo of the engine mounted a couple years ago with the stock turbo and stock intake manifold. The engine is slouching to the passenger side in the photo, this is why I redid the mounts: Next is to hook up the clutch, have the drive lines spliced together, do piping and finish up my intake manifold with larger throttle body. The engine is controled by a stand alone EFI system, the Wolf3D 4.0. There is a TRD clutch in there, Accel 500hp external fuel pump, 550cc/min injectors, and a full T04 turbo sits ontop of the SS header with 38mm wastegate. Would like to go with a T-66 turbo, but this smaller one will have to do right now, it will probably limit me to 350hp, but the T-66 should really open it up.

Don't use the 240sx tps sensor, it is different than the 280z type. The 280z is more like a switch, lets the computer know when you are idling and when your are at full throttle. The 240sx one is linear resistance, not a switch type. You may need to adjust the throttle body a little more open to get a higher idle.

Turned out that the little key or cog that aligns the crank pulley was missing on my engine, and the crank pulley was not aligned properly. To sum it up my timing was messed up because of this by a lot I bet. Anyways, fixed it up, timed it correctly and am now running 12psi with good pull through the band. Best of luck figuring out your running problems.

Sounds similar to our problems: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35827 How long has your car been acting like this? Does it ever start running well for you after a change of something?

I have been going through a similar problem, and have done much of the same in trying to get my car running. I've had it start to run great about two times on me after doing some work around the engine, but really for no good known reason. The car seems fine when not under high load at higher rpms. It's like I can use about half of my throttle pedal, and really seems like the car only has as much power as a stock L24 engine. When it's running correctly I have a hard time picking my head up off of the seat, and have traction problems. I know for a fact that my distributor is not in the best of shape, you turn it and it feels like something broke off into the bushings. The vibration of this alone could probably make the sensing go bad. The fact that it times out good at idle, and then under load it acts like the timing is way off kind of makes me suspect a problem, but it's hard to tell if the problem is timing or fuel related. Anyways, I feel your pain. I've been going through this stuff for some time, lots of people saying it sounds like the tps, but if it were only that easy then it would have been fixed so long ago. Keep us updated. If I get mine running well I'll let you know.

That's funny that you mention breaking up under boost, and swapping plugs gets you going well for about a week. I have the same problem with my car. I wasn't sure what to think. I guess I should consider swapping out the junk yard coil. I thought it had more to do with my air/fuel mixture, but without adjusting anything my o2 sensor would read differently under boost and car would run not as well after a while. What it looks like is the car isn't using all of the fuel making it read rich under medium load, but if I leave my foot in it long enough it goes lean quick. Didn't look right to me. This makes it so that I can't rev under load as high. Engine doesn't come to speed as quickly, and my gas mileage isn't quite as good. Does this sound similar, or different to your problem? Sorry to side track from the subject, best of luck selling your parts. I can't believe how low your times are with such low boost, sounds like a very efficient set up. After you have the coils replaced will you be able to tune in more boost?

I looked up a NA MKIII flow meter and yes it is the barn door type, but the turbo one definately is not. Here is a picture of my engine compartment: http://zhome.com/~aktar/ebay/supra/enginefront.jpg Here is the larger diameter lexus one that many people swap into their MKIII turbos to trick the car into not giving as much fuel pulse time so they can stick larger injectors in and run more boost: http://www.supracarparts.com/parts%20pics/DSCN3344c.jpg Here are details on the swap and a side by side photo of each (larger lexus, same interal but smaller MKIII Supra T afm): http://home.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/lexus/lexus1.htm Here is picture auction of non turbo afm: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908398857&category=33553&sspagename=WDVW obviously barn door, obviously different than the turbo one.

The 7M uses a heated wire mass air flow sensor like the 300ZX does, not the door type that the 280Z/X's do. I believe the non turbo uses a single coil while the turbo has 3 coil packs. The older MKII supras used the door type, maybe confused the two? MKIII's are from `86-`92 Comparing the 7M to the 2JZ the 2JZ is a better high reving engine, I think you can pull another 1K RPM out of them in stock form. The 2JZ has better head flow design, but price difference is quite a lot. My 7M-GTE engine swap is about complete after 2 years, just need to go and get a drive line made up, and some other odds and ends.. I had to put off the completion for some time due to finances, but I've just sold a car and am back at it.

I'm located in bakersfield with a hybrid turbo swap. Don't know how far away you are, bet you're on the south side of the grape vine, but if you're headed my way you are welcome to come talk, take pics, and we could drive it around the block.

If you just need something to get you around for a little while I have a stock turbo up for sale: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7908229763&category=33742 I know, probably not what you're looking for performance wise, but hey, it's cheap.

These Stone Mountain Standard wastegates are going pretty cheap on eBay, so I bought this 40mm one. Here is the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7908328773&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT I'm assuming it is one of those inbetween ones? I think the tial ones were about $50 more, I could use the money for a throttle body. Too bad I didn't see the post earlier I would have made an offer on that 38mm one J Taylor has.

Box only weighs 3 pounds 2 ounces. Shipping from 93309 to 91325 is $5.30 would only take 2 days to ship. I have a paypal account, aktar@becksystems.com

That linkage was a long piece of all thread, it had a little flex in it because it was so long. If I were to do it again I'd adapt some throttle linkage cable and mount it securely at both ends. I couldn't tell ya for sure how many pounds of boost you could run. Would just have to exeriment a bit. The turbo itself isn't much usefull above 13 pounds or so. I'm still running the engine I had with the old carb setup now with EFI, so I'm proof that you can play around with these things without totalling an engine (just listen closesly for knocks). I would suggest using an O2 sensor and an air/fuel ratio guage. It'll give you a heads up on if you're running lean. Start building a small intake manifold to join the SU 2 carbs, and also join the linkage. You may be able to make it with fiberglass (can you run gas over fiberglass?). Even a steel one would work just fine, if you have MIG welder. Then just mount that puppy infront of the turbo and use the Y pipe I made up. I think it would be much easier to mount a down draft carb though, lot more options too. Let me know what your zip is and I'll let you know how much shipping is.

I still have this custom aluminum Y pipe. It was MIG welded, the bends are like weld els and are smooth inside and out. Would be awesome polished! This is lined up for the stock T3 from a 280zx or 300zx (z31). I didn't have any problems cold starting the car even though I had the carb so much lower than the intake (would start after about 1 second of cranking). Boost levels that you can run very on octain, ignition timing, tempurature, exhaust, C/R, etc.. But it is definately a cheap way to bolt on a few more horse power. I'm willing to part with it now for $27 + shipping. It has a fine hair line crack, only surface. I would have loved to have had it TIG welded, but just didn't have the money at the time. All you have to do is mount a carb infront of the turbo's intake, you can make like a right angle and raise the carb. I'm using the rest of the parts, except for the SU intake manifold, so if you need it I can hook you up with that as well. I also have the SU carb, front pipe to mount it up, but I would suggest a larger carb.

The throttle cable looks very clean. How do you attach it to the gas pedal? Any tips on ordering the correct size? Intake looks nice, could use one for my 7M.

Sure enough there are 30, thanks for the info. I will look into the option of getting a set of the S15's shafts vs custom fabbed. Any ideas as to if the S15's shafts will bolt onto my 280zxt CV's? Probably a long shot, but maybe they can be adapted some how. Sounds easiest to get the `84+ R200 with the 12mm ring gear and such, I will have to look around to see what ratios are available. This job isn't a priority on my list, so probably won't get it finished until like this winter, but I will definately let you guys know how it's going, and I'm sure I'll need more guidence along the way. Oh, I didn't bid at all.. Just emailed the seller about it before and after the auction.

I think I might have one of those chance of a life time deals here in my hands. I should probably figure out how to get it working, or ask enough to get me a complete higher mileage bolt in LSD.

majik16106 - no doubt the best bang for the buck is upgrading your ct-26, I was just saying in it's stock form it was small. I'm not comparing it to a little T3, but I'm comparing it to the flow capabilities of more modern engines such as the stock twins on the 2jz, or even the 1jz. There are pleanty of reason to move away from the ct-26, for instance the number of options on sizing go up as soon as you go garrett. Finding replacement parts are a lot easier to find for garrett (most diesel shops have rebuild kits in stock), pricing is better. The best reason to modify the ct-26 is because you'll be using the stock exhaust manifold and it's an easy bolt on. Also you can pass smog with it. A lot of Supra guys really try to stay with the ct-26, it's kind of like they are trying to prove something with it. I see the same thing with other Z car discusion groups that say an only Nissan engine will go in their Nissan car. I'm just trying to get things done the easiest way with as little amount of money possible. Initiatially I started out wanting to build a 450hp L28ET, but that turned out to be out of my budget, the 7M has it's issues, but most of these only become apparent once you're making far more power than a L28ET with a worked over head and a nice set of bolt ons. Even with the issues at hand I find it to be the best bang for the buck, and who needs over 500hp in a 2300 pound car anyways? The availability of a TRD head for around $1500 (over sized valves, ported, larger cams) also makes it tempting to me if I ever think I could use a little more GO. Just had my valve covers and some other parts silver powder coated, turned out real clean. Will be working on other details here shortly, should be going this summer.

The high bidder on this LSD: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=ViewItem&item=2411185886 Backed out and I ended up buying it for a lower price. I'm not sure exactly what I've got myself into at this point, but I was hoping that I could bolt it into my Z car. Before purchasing this I was going to install the late 80's 300zx LSD R200 along with my 280zx CV's and adapters from Modern Motorsports. I already have the shafts and adapters here. Now I'm trying to figure out if my shafts are going to work with this thing, and what differential I need to bolt it into. I haven't taken a real close look at it yet, but I'm assuming it has 12mm bolts, so I'll need a later style R200 from a z31 I guess, and as for the input shafts I'm not sure. The splines on my 280ZX CV's seem to be too small for the inside of this thing. Would anyone happen to know what I will need to get this to bolt in. I think I got an awesome deal on this, maybe I should resell and look for that z31 turbo 3.7:1 LSD that bolts in easily? What I like about this one is that it has very low miles. Oh yeah, this is setting on my parts car, someone come please take it away, I need some room.

Z-Gad, I've had the same experience. My local diesel shop had a t04b turbo that they were going to return as a core, and I asked if I could trade my t3 compressor housing for that t04b, and we did it. Also, they had a new t04b sitting on the shelf for over 10 years, didn't have the part number to it anymore, so they offered it to me $100 and I couldn't pass up. My local shop made some mods to my starion intercooler piping. Like you said, they love doing something a little different. They always wonder if I've blown up my car since bolting on a diesel truck part, which always makes me laugh a little.

He doesn't have any pictures of his setup with the old mercedes throttle body anymore. There is a link to his current site on my site, under links.

Those triangle peices on the intake manifold behind the throttle body piping, are those flat peices of aluminum or are they pieces cut out of round metal, like a large diameter pipe? Very nice work. I especially like the intake manifold because I'd like to make one for my car very soon..Would like more details on it, did you stick air horns into it, did you make your own some how? I think I will have to put my throttle body out like that as well. Was shopping around for throttle bodies, and I think I'm going to go with a 75mm one off of an LS1, has a built in idle valve, which I think is cool. The 65mm on my orange car is pretty easy to drive with, so I figure 75 shouldn't be too much harder.. The main body of the intake manifold looks like it doesn't have welds on the outer edge, is this because you ground them down, or did you pick up the metal pre bent, if so where can I get some? Very nice work overall, is that a 40mm wastegate? Was looking around on ebay and thought I saw one similar. I'm going to bolt up a 35mm one, as that should do the trick for me. I like the tie in supports a lot, are the threaded parts SS? Are you keeping with the square exhaust system under the car?

Cool.. What size?

I've bought about 4 rebuild cartridges from them, they are willing to make deals if you buy in bulk. Best thing to do is to call them up, I don't have the number on me, but I think it's on the web page. Anyways, most t3 or t4 rebuild kits are about $115 shipped. The turbo on my orange car has a rebuild kit from them in it. I've put about 5k miles on it, and it still feels like new. I didn't do any balancing, and my shaft looked like it was in good condition, so I just sand blasted the parts and bolted it together. Best of luck getting the turbine housing off.. Sometimes it's a real pain. I've had to cut off the bolt heads before then machine them out. What a pain. If you need a stock turbine housing, because of the difficult bolts, or because of cracking I may have one laying around. Just ask me and I'll look to see. I know for a fact I have a compressor side setup.