Tony240ZT

Something doesn't sound right if you are detonating on pump gas with stock boost, even after fixing any timing issues. I wouldn't call adding more octane a fix. With my MKIII supra I had to jumper some pins while timing the car so that the computer wouldn't try to self correct the timing. They were the same pins for getting the engine error codes. Just curious what are some of the things you bought to spend that much in trying to fix this? Did anything make any differneces you think? Sorry if you have already posted this info, but what was the condition of the car this engine came out of? Do you know if it ran well before taking the engine out? If I understood you right still sounds like you have some sort of issues, probably not safe to turn up the boost until they are figured out.

As I've been bolting on performance parts to my 7M motor I haven't thought, man I wish I could have gotten this stainless steel header from my dealership, or these larger injectors from PepBoys, this front mount intercooler from Wal-Mart. These parts would probably be too much for me to afford buying them new anyways. You can find nice aftermarket tubular headers on eBay for the 1jz (single turbo conversion ones), bolt on any turbo to any engine, feed more fuel the same way you would your L28. I can't say I know much about the RB engine, but I didn't realize you could pick up say, a head gasket, water pump, timing belt, starter, sensors locally. I don't think it would be crazy to have an extra set of a few of the named parts above. I agree with the way this thread is leaning about the 1jz being the better choice between the two engines. Even considering other engines that could fit a Z I think the 1jz is really up there on my list for turbo charged engines. I like how the I6 is easy to work on, fits so well in the engine bay. If you weren't stuck on an inline I would consider the GN engine as an option as well. If you're into fooling people into thinking you have the stock engine put a big Nissan sticker on the 1jz. If people don't know that there shouldn't be a 4 cylinder, or a DOHC engine in your z car then they would probably fall for it. Or just maybe a TRD badge next to a NISMO badge would be interesting, and I'm sure that would have people talking. I agree there is something neat about saying, this is a Skyline engine, or this is the supra engine from the fast and the furious. But I would rather have my car be known for being one of the quickest imports at the track, and putting that extra cash you saved by not spending the money on hype on a larger intercooler, stand alone ems, dyno time, BB turbo, ceramic coating, etc. As far as swapping the R154 onto the 1jz, I believe all you have to do is find a 1jz bell housing. I'm not sure if it bolts right up to the R154, but lots of MA70 supra guys do this swap. If you do a search on the web you'll find a pretty detailed list on howto. The R154 is a very strong tranny. lately http://www.7mpower.com/ is having hosting problems, but there are a number of MA70 cars on there with 7m-gte/R154 making over 500hp with no problems with drive train, man those cars are heavy, too. The exhaust on the passenger side I don't see as being any problem. Either way you go the exhaust ends up in the middle of the car right after the tranny, so at that point the exhaust would be just the same bends out the back. I am putting the battery behind the passenger seat, and have moved my brake lines slightly to keep them away from the heat. I think moving the battery was a good idea anyways. Clifton didn't move his battery, and I understand it gets very hot there in AZ. Really hope someone on this list does this swap, so there are less questions in some peoples minds about doing it. If I had found a 1jz for the same price as my 7M I would have done it.

If you intend on keeping the car for a long time, and enjoy power - go with the 1jz-gte. The stock rated power output of the 1jz-gte is very low in comparison to its untapped potential. The difference in work required to get the turbo setup running is really not that much more and the extra money put into it would be a far better investment than you could ever make on the NA engine. Just my 2 cents The 7M-GTE would be the same amount of work as the 1jz to install and pleanty enough power for an early Z car. May even be more affordable. Would love to have another inline 6 toyota swap on the board here. Would be great if you are serious about the swap.

I just bought a T-61 Turbo off of a guy with one of these cars. He is going with the 2jz-gte engine. The car also has some supra brakes and suspention parts. I understand he put some pretty wide wheels/tires under the car as well. He's going with a single T-61 as well, but with a larger turbine than the one he sold me. Guy's name is Walter Mulligan located in Englishtown, NJ Since the prices of the Supra MKIV are so high still this car would be something very similar for a much better starting price. Might even be more comfortable.

I have an empty LSD case seen here: Can you still order new parts to fill up the inside of it, and does it take special tools to setup the clutch inside of one of these cases? I bought this thinking it would be complete with clutch inside. Anyone interested in having one of these?

Probably needs to download the divx codec to view. Do search, it's free. Perhaps if the supra engine was in an early Z body it would have been a better race. Looks like the T67 is good for 600wrhp, what do you think the NSX was making? Does 16#'s for the T67 kit sound like much? I was searching around trying to find what the stock boost was with the twins and it looks like only 15-16 pounds was stock, and I doubt the T67 spools as quickly as the the sequential twins. The car is probably slower than a stock supra tt. Perhaps someone with more MKIV knowlege can clear this up. Well, bet the supra guy has less invested, probably hasn't done much tuning. Another 10#'s boost would probably make a world of difference. Still though the NSX making the same power would beat the supra due to weight (supra is about 500lbs heavier). Here is a perfect example of why cars can't be compared completely on boost levels. The NSX has a much higher compression setup, 15psi was probably a LOT for that setup, while the 16psi on the supra engine was only a little.

Think you answered your own question. Put in a 280zx alt, or maxima alternator. A good 70amp one installs easily. Here is a post to the IZCC that should help. I've done this swap before, it's nice to be able to unbolt that extern regulator and clean up the engine compartment:

Here is my japanese 280zx NA manifold smoothed out. It didn't come with EGR, or a idle control built onto the manifold. It does have a cold start injector though. There were little screw holes left after smoothing it out, I just filled them with JB weld, would have been nice to have them welded so that I could have the manifold powder coated.

Forgive me if this should be obvious. What did this car start out as, or was it a complete custom job from the ground up? What was the body based off of? Looks a little similar to the tomahak z kit. The beveling around those tail lights are awesome.

Anyone else have the crank pulley key break due to quick reving and the high load that is caused by power steering pump, a/c compressor, etc? This happened to me ones taking off in my 280zx GL, and when I bought my L28-ET engine it came with a broken key. Usually happens if the crank pulley bolt gets loose. I think it's more likely to happen on the 280zx GL or turbo model with all the accessories. Also the other thing that sucks is that the exhaust studs on the ends break easily. Other than that the electronics and rest have been good to me. My 280ZX GL has that problem where if the TPS gets wet it makes it so the car can't rev past 3K rpms.

Sounds like the car is a little out of tune. Probably a combination of timing and fuel mixture. You can get a very hard launch holding the brake and getting the RPM up to the point right before the torque converter locks. I personally donno how strong the stock trans is though, and doing this a few times does heat the tranny up quick. The stock turbo really spools quickly. A larger throttle body will help the off line respons, but without an intercooler, and stock turbo I bet it spools at 2k rpm

Looks bad, any cracking? I once had a parts yard send me a flywheel with lots of little hair line cracks in it, the surface looked very much like yours. I made sure to get a re-surfaceable one to replace it. Looking on ebay you could probably get one from $25-$200 + shipping.

I may be a bit of an optimist, but it sounds like it's working fine. There isn't an easy way to test it on the bench, as far as I know. After you install it in the car the clicking/pulsing will modulate. If you need help hooking up the vacuum hoses do a search on here, there has been talk about it.

Don't shoot me for having this turbine housing. But I have one of these Bullseye housings with a 35mm wastegate port built into them. I can't understand why they thought this was a great idea. They don't mark their housings with an A/R. Their asking a lot for their housings too, but anyways, I bought mine cheap, and that's the only reason why I picked it up. I called and asked about what the A/R is comparable and they said it was like a .63 (uhhh maybe), and says that mine will fit P trim wheel, will also fit stage 5 T3 wheel. Perhaps my T4 wheel won't have all of the gasses focused on the wheel like it should since it's longer than the T3 wheel? They offer an extremely expencive bolt on V-band kit: http://www.bullseye-power.com/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=32 I'll just make a block off plate for the back like this, and was thinking a V-band would be sweet since I'm not staying with this turbo very long, and I don't want to have to redo the exhaust when I switch. Also the idea of being able to turn it at any slight angle sounds better to me.

Anyone have a source for getting a V-band weld on and clamp? I see one here on ebay, but not sure if it's a very good one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38634&item=7922803055&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V Price seems high to me.

Was out taking some pictures of the car and having some fun. Going to put the car out on eBay this weekend, so trying to enjoy it while I can. My sweetie has an artistic eye for these things, and I liked how it turned out. hint: I'm not having electrical problems If you are clueless as to how something like that could happen here is another hint:

I think you'd rather wait for mine to be out there. I should have it up by wednesday. It's my orange `73 with L28-ET, T3/T4 turbo, FMIC, painted earlier this year, interior all nice too. I'll have more pictures of it soon, and hopefully I can borrow a better camera. Basicly a clean stock looking 240Z with the engine transplant. Anyone else like the way these wheels turned out as much as I do?

I just put a few things up in the classifies, they are directed at you Turbo people. Last time I had these throttle bodies you guys were fighting over them, so thought I should post here that I have two 65mm throttle bodies off of Mercedes V8's. If you are unfamiliar with them do a search for the topic. I have one of these throttle bodies mounted on my car: Link to ad: http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=65&de=793 While I took a pic of the TB on my car I did an engine pic, haven't done one in a while: I am selling this car with the L28-ET very soon. It's a great car, but I need the money for the 7M-GTE project car. When I swapped out the L24-ET and put in the L28-ET I couldn't use my old oil adapter plate, so I have it up for sale. It has a T off of it to run an oil line to the turbo. Here is what the oil plate adapter looks like with a filter stuck on: You can see more pics under the classified: http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=65&de=794 Here is a photo of the new oil adapter on the L28-ET, these were on automatic equiped 280ZX's I believe.. Perhaps only certain years? I re-used my oil lines so they were a little tight after getting a little cut, but turned out well. Also, I have a bare L28-ET block sitting in the garage. It has had the rough casting removed from the inside. It's prepped like "How to build your Nissan OHC engine" book tells you how. I had hoped to make a stroker engine out of it, but went with the 7M-GTE instead. At this point anyone is welcome to come pick it up for free. I have a front bumper off of a `73 240Z that I need to clear out too, and a couple sets of SU's in the garage.. Noticing these are turbo parts I'll stop there. However, I have been known to make SU's into something turbo related: Yes, this is what the orange car's engine compartment used to look like with a draw through turbo setup on a L24.. I could not get enough gas into this thing, and it would ping.. Caused the engine rings to get unhappy, that's why the L28-ET is now in the engine with fuel injection. The added fuel, intercooler, and t3/t4 turbo have helped the car get down the road faster now.

I'm hooking mine up and want to make sure I have this about right. I have an external wastegate. And from looking at documents I've seen online like this one: Of a Greddy Profec hookup I think mine will be similar with my Wolf3D. The Wolf3D already has a vacuum line dedicated to the manifold for engine management and controls the vacuum switch based on that. Here is my picture, I removed as much as possible to make it clear to myself what needed to be done. Does this look correct? I also wanted to do this to help others see it more clearly, as I've done some searches and haven't found much info.

It's hard to tell, is that built off of a Z engine mount? Was your 12.8@117 time with your CT-26? If so have you run the 1/4 mile with your new turbo? Are you able to turn up the boost more now? The new turbo looks so nice looking.. I think next summer I'll work on installing A/C, possibly go with smaller compressor and will need to make up my own mounts.

I found a very inspiring web site. It is purely MKIII supra's only and they plan to stay that way, but otherwise the site has some very nicely done cars with good descriptions. http://www.7mpower.com/members.shtml All of the cars have over 400rwhp, all but one have bolted on a different brand turbo.. It's interesting to see how the dyno charts look for each turbo on the same engine. What is so inspiring to me is not the fact that one guy is making 730rwhp with his 7M-GTE, it's that many of these ~450hp guys are making the power on stock internals (with exception to ARP head studs, and MHG) I found 3 guys with similar intake manifolds to what I'm interested in making for myself. One of them looks like they made the intake manifold out of an old oxegyn tank. Could that have once been setup like this?: Was thinking of going over to a shop that sells these things locally and seeing if they had any tanks that were out of date, because the funnel part meeting the TB would be so clean looking in compared to something someone made for example: Notice these guys are running stock 60mm throttle bodies.. I found that interesting, ScottyGNZ also was making lots of power with a small throttle body. So, I'm really getting the point now that it's not a necessary thing. However, I have a 65mm tb I'm going to use because it's just more simple in design, and here are the rest of the parts that will some day become my intake manifold: This is a NA intake manifold that I will be chopping up.. I will lower my alternator with a little arm extending from the top mount to clear the throttle body. This guy has a very nice aluminum one on his car: You have to look left of the TB to see what I'm talking about. Right above it is a very small support for the intake manifold that is bolted to where the engine lift hooks were. I'll update with more pics as more is done.. It may be a while before anything is accomplished because I have to wait for the L28-ET Orange 240Z to sell..

Here is the tranny mount. The base of it is based of a MKII Supra tranny mount.. There is a bit of reinforcement on the inside of the tunnel. I don't like that very much, but it leaves a lot more room for exhaust, and I was in a hurry when I dropped the motor in to return the engine hoist. I just put in my R200, it's just an open one for now, mounted on urethain bushings. I'm installing Modern Motor Sport's 280ZX CV conversion kit. I'm just waiting on some 280Z outer spindles and new bearings. After I get those bolted in I can take over my two drive shafts and have them re-tubed to the length needed and I'll have the ends rebuilt at the same time. While I have the rear suspention off I would like to convert to disk brakes, if anyone has parts to help me do this let me know. I may go with the Modern Motor Sport kit that uses nissan parts. I like where the stock shifter comes out. My shifter is from a MKIII supra, I'm not too tall at 5'8" About making mounts for others, I don't claim to be an engineer, and only hope things are lined up well enough to not give me problems. If it turns out great then maybe that would be something worth doing for others as it's a great engine for the price. I currently am using the mounting holes on the engine block that were intended for power steering pump and A/C compressor. Those that would want to use the A/C compressor would probably want to do something different. Clifton has A/C on his 7M powered 240Z, I'd be interested in how his driver's side mount looks.. The engine sits so differently in the Z than it did in the supra that the original mounts were some where near the tention rod bushings in the z. I guess something could have been built off of the frame rails and some how around the steering column. Anyways, would love to see more people doing this swap and would like to see new ideas. I'm open to redoing my setup if somebody finds a better way of doing things. I just noticed I need to remove the stock trans mounts because they are too close to the sides of the tranny. This tranny is quite a lot wider than the stock 4 speed.

I like the Monza's a lot.. http://www.Zhome.com has quite a lot of racing history on Z's. Check out the nose on this one labeled Macau 240Z My favorite articles include the Electramotive Bob Sharp 280ZX Turbo. There are some photos of the engine on a dyno in "How to build your Nissan OHC engine" that are pretty neat. I would like to get more info on the engine of these cars, expecially the turbo models. It looks as though they tilt the engine a little bit, and have the cam running by a belt, also the cam sensor and sometimes distributor is sticking out the front of the cam, through the valve cover. Anyways, Carl Beck has helped a lot in keeping our Z history together in one place. I have a lot of respect for him.

If you need help converting to digital could mail me a copy. I have the hardware to do it easily. Bet that was a shocker!

Will be selling my orange car this month to get the money to complete the job. I'm hoping to be done by the end of this month, or early next. I've had the engine running in the engine compartment before, without a drive line, so at least I have the wires in the right place, it'll just be a matter of tuning once I have all the parts together. My orange car has received new paint (prowler orange), a low mileage L28-ET, it has a T04B/T3 turbo, 65mm throttle body, Japanese no EGR intake manifold, oil cooler, front mount modified starion intercooler, electric fan, 4 core radiator, accel coil, fresh air K&N intake, and the inside looks pretty nice. The engine is bolted up to a 3 speed 280Z auto tranny that shifts very nicely. The car can run up to ~13psi without a problem. If you know anyone who would be interested pass the word around, it's a very nice california rust free `73 240Z. I would say that it could use some suspention work and some fresh brakes or perhaps I should say with the added power maybe these could use an upgrading, but as far as the engine and looks go, it's perfect. (front air dam is now painted, and bumper is fixed) I'll be excepting offers over $5K. I just drove it up to Reno, NV from southern CA it was very exciting all the way, may have broken the speed limit a couple times