Tony240ZT

Very cool! I should be there with you in my 7M this year once I get it running again.

Awesome run, if you will be at the MSA show I will see ya. My car will not be running again I've been out enjoying my FJ Cruiser instead of my z car.

Very nice car, what was it running the 1/4?

Lemme know if this is what you were wondering. I used a banjo bolt off of an intake manifold for doing the fuel presure gauge. My EFI system doesn't use the cold start injector.

Materchan, looks like you're ahead of me right now. I'm getting a good head gasket on soon, with the head studs soon. I'm thinking of dropping the engine off at the engine shop and getting some nice internals, and a little head work. Really nice weather right now for working on cars. The stock JDM gasket was a little beaten up after 20psi of boost. I had even retorqued the head bolts before then. Also, I think one of my rings is leaking a little since the compression was low on 5, and it's a little oily there. Just bad tuning really. I should have taken it to a dyno before boosting it much. I'll be more patient this time, specially since I'll probably have real money invested in the bottom end now. Hopefully I'll have it together before April next year to be at the MSA show.

Did you try using some polish? I would take an angle grinder with a polishing pad with polishing rouge to that outer rim. Hard to tell from the pic how etched it is.

Here is my car with the wheels and a set of 215/60/r15 I now I have rear disks on the car. Springs are tokico

Very nice and consistant A/F graph.. Awesome numbers! I hope my 7M does that well some day.

I want the flares for my car. I still can't get used to that wing.

From what I've read and witnessed the longer stroke on the L28 makes it difficult to rev as easily. I had a L24 with a P90 head that I turboed with an EFI system, then took the exact same turbo EFI system and head to put on a F54 L28 bottom end and the quick light reving experience that I had before went away. But I gained a lot of low end and mid rang torque that was noticeable by the seat of the pants. Also, the exhaust note was different, more throaty sounding. Also the rods on the L28 were shorter. Without my books infront of me all I can remember is that longer rods have some advantages because there aren't as extreme of angles.

I got a response from a guy over at cosmoracing.com named Paul. He states that: This is is for the single spring setup. I'm going to place an order for them to raise my car slightly for some rally tires. Not the 7M silver car, I have another `72 with a non clear title that is a great car for off road driving.

I had a shop that has a mandrel bender do my 3" exhaust, it fits up in there pretty tight and don't have any issues rubbing

My JDM engine (they came in some sedans in japan) was $900 and then bought a 5 speed locally for $200. This didn't include a wiring harness though, but did include all sensors and fuel injectors. The engine was so clean in and out from low miles, which I think makes it worth going with a JDM engine. You'll want to find at least the front half of a drive shaft. MKIII Supras had a 2 piece drive shaft.

29 inches long from front of pulley to rear of engine block.. Trans is shorter than the Z trannies, but a bit thicker and heavier. materchan: if there are any updates post them please!

What did you use to get the pins out? I soaked mine then beat them with a brass hammer until they started mushrooming, then gave up and took them on over to the only shop in town that had a press large enough to do the job. The shop people were a little surprised about how tight they were. Strange thing is, the new ones went in real easy.

Sounds like you've got pulling the plenum down now though. Anyone know how much it would have been to get the stock ones rebuilt? Like say from RC? A previous owner installed some cheapo injectors into a 280zx turbo harness that I picked up to put into my old orange 240ZT. Those things didn't even try to atomize the fuel, just strait streams, I replaced them with some OEM ones and it made the engine run much better.

Ummm.. They still have that smog meeter here on some news stations, and you have to check to see if you can burn wood durring the winter before using your fire place. If the air isn't considered clean enough to burn wood, then you will get fined. I think our air quality here at the bottom of the San Joaquin valley is only second to LA's. I too can't see mountains just 20-30 miles away, except right after a rainy day. I'd love to be over on the coast where the bad air gets flushed out, and it's not so freaking hot. I got the `81 280ZX to pass smog earlier this year. Cost me like $65 for the test after a cut out from the yellow pages. I think it helped that I've only got about 20K miles on the cat.

Projects always seem to take 3x longer than you'd expect. In my case I could multiply that many times over. Glad to see another 7M project on here, keep us updated, and would love to hear about some of your plans.

I think I've thrown mine sideways quite a few times, not always planned though. That was fun. I agree with veritech-z

It's got my vote, where do I pay I'm ready to play.

Wish I could get my 7M to a state I was happy with. TRD clutch doesn't hold the power, wastegate isn't opening at the right time consistantly, and have ECU tuning issues. Sometimes it all works right and I loose traction going 45+mph.. Some day it will all come together though. The engine is just insane with the bolt ons I have, I can't imagine a 2jz with similar work done to it. I think the $900 I spent on a JDM engine was worth it, spent about $250 for a 5 speed tranny, $200 on a drive shaft, $450 on a clutch (and it sucks), mandrel bent 3" exhaust $300. Had to buy new alternator and starter because they weren't included another $200 there. Then you start adding up all of the supporting mods like the brakes upgrade, half shafts, diff, good quality fuel pump. Keep us updated.

I had my tank cleaned and coated for $120. Drilled out the plug and pulled my fuel feed line from it. Plugged the 5/16 and used the 3/8 for return. The shop I took mine to was a radiator shop, best of luck finding a place.

Soarer came with the 1jz-gte (2.5L Twin Turbo) that was also available in the later model MKIII supras in japan only (after the 7m-gte) In the US the SC300 came stock with a 2jz-ge, and many people put the 2jz-gte (turbo version from supra), or just bolted a turbo onto the non turbo block. So in other words, they came stock with the non turbo version of the surpa engine here in the states. The SC also had the available 4.0L 8 cylinder all aluminum dohc engine. In 2001 the SC430 came out with a 4.3L v8, and that retractable hard top, no 6 cylinder or turbo options for it. Just wanted to clareify.

Wish my living room looked like that.

You could probably use a HVLP gun, they mix paint well with less air. Here is a good buy: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45001 I think that may be the one that I use. The painting I did came out just about as good as an aerosol can does. Clean up is pretty easy with this paint. I can't imagine using a roller, I wouldn't have the patience to correct the bumps and divots created by something physicly touching the paint. So much sanding required that your layers of paint end up being pretty thin after they are corrected.