Tony240ZT

Not sure if this was possible, but could you have had the disc backwards? Looks like those springs were hitting your flywheel bolts. I initially installed my disc in backwards in my 7m-gte, luckly nothing touched, but I couldn't get it to disengage at all.

Thank you for making and sharing the videos, very intertaining and inspiring. Kalvin may not be so hard on supras if he saw a supra and z mate. I look foward to the updates!

Prowler Orange (I think 2002) More Pics here http://www.mlinks.net/~aktar/ebay/73240z/ Was thinking of painting it the new 350Z orange color, bu it was a bit too gold for me. This is a nice rich color with very fine metal flake, almost looks like a candy color over a silver.

Here is an above engine picture of my previously owned `73 with a L28ET: The 7M does seem shorter, and I had to move it further back to get the shifter in a good spot. The rear of the valve covers are under the hood latch support, and it would be tight removing the head if I had studs installed. I figure I'll have to do what a lot of the V8 guys do to the hood latch support. This car has a very distinct sound to it when under boost that I will record for you guys within the week. Sadly I think the TRD clutch isn't going to be enough, I felt it slip under boost on the freeway today. It is hard to explain to someone the experience of a good sized turbo car, expecially right as it spools up when you're not expecting it. The moment before the turbo hits you think the car is going well enough to pass any ricer you may see, a short time after that a rush of air all around you pushes the car foward so hard all you can think about is trying to keep your head upright. Soon after that you are grabbing desperately for the brakes. It feels like this much fun shouldn't be legal. You long forget about ricers and look for larger prey. Some of you know this feeling, it's the first for me. My L28ET setup felt nothing like this. Had I done some of the bolt ons I've done on this engine to the L28ET I'm sure it would have been a real kick too. But ultimately I think I will be able to reach my goals with this engine with less money out of pocket. Thank you for all of your good comments. I've worked on the car on and off over the past 3-4 years. In that time I've owned an `87 Supra Turbo that was pretty much stock, but very clean and was fun at ~10#'s boost. Very nice car, much more tame than the 240Z-7M. Working on and driving the Surpa with the 7M in it is what made me want this engine in my Z. I did go through a blow head gasket problem on the Supra at around 110K miles, but nothing to sweat over, and it's easy to make solid. I put a good amount of thought into picking an engine I considered the RB, 1JZ, and 2JZ. I actually ordered a 2JZ, but put the order on a Debit card that had a daily spending limit set on it that was less than the engine. That gave me time to think it over a little more, and I figured for the same price as a 2JZ I could have a 7M with the bolt ons that I wanted. The RB being the same case, while the 1JZ is a little difficult to find parts for, but would be my second choice based on its price and potential.

The stock intake manifold crosses over the top of the valve covers, I wanted a more clean intercooler piping setup. I started out with a Oxygen cylinder, cut it to size, mounted it onto a set of upper manifold runners from an old intake manifold. Welded a flange on to be able to accept a Mercedes V8 65MM throttle body. The OD is about 4 1/4". I opted to not go with volocity stacs simply because of the cost Here is a picture of right after cutting the intake manifold and sizing up: I had to lower the alternator a little bit, which was pretty easy. This meant putting on a smaller belt: Here is my computer rendering I designed to help guide the project:

Some of you may know I've been working on this swap for some time. I had a bad case of "while I'm at it, I might as well..." For starters I've purchased a low mileaged JDM 7M-GTE long block that was in very nice condition. I expected to have a great deal more power with this engine and have done other supporting bolt ons to keep the car under control. The intentions of this car have been to keep it streetable with the ability to pull off a good 1/4 mile time. Engine mods: Blitz Stainless Steel Hand bent header (modified) Super T70 Turbo, .70 A/R compressor housing, divided tangent T3 .84 A/R turbine housing and stage V turbine wheel. V-Band exhaust hook-up HKS 40MM external Wastegate TurboXS Type H Blow Off Valve Front Mount Intercooler core dementions: 24"x12"x4" MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires Custom intake manifold w/65MM throttle body 3" SS mandrel exhaust system 2 1/2, and 3" SS mandrel bent intercooler piping 14" electric fan (1200cfm) Fuel/Electronics: Wolf3D V4.0 Engine Management System (fully programable, built in boost controler) 550cc/min Fuel Injectors Walbro inline fuel pump (GSL-392) -6AN fuel lines Drivetrain: Toyota R154 5 Speed Transmission Toyota Racing Development Clutch Kit 3.54:1 R200 Differential 280ZX Turbo CV half shafts, 280Z stub axels, Modern Motorsport CV adapters Custom drive shaft Suspension/Brakes: Tokico Springs Tokico Struts Urethain Bushing/Bump stops MSA Front 1" and rear 7/8" sway bars Stainless Steel Braided Brake lines Toyota 4x4 4 piston front brake calipers Brembo 11.4" rear solid rotor disk brakes, 240SX calipers, Modern Motorsports brakets KVR brake pads The car is running very strong right now, but does need to get dyno tuned. That will be happening later this year along with a metal head gasket, ARP head bolts. Thank you everyone who has provided me with your insight expecially Clifton, Ross Corrigan of Modern Motorsports, Pete Sanders, and of course my girl Kim Many local companies that have helped out in services include: http://www.dnaparts.com/ Delaney and Ahlf Diesel Services for my TIG welding, T-bolt clamps and silicone hoses. http://www.bobsmuffler.com/ Bob's Muffler: SS mandrel bending http://www.amstreetrod.com/ American Street rod: many of those hard to find Earl's hose fittings Pro Shaft of Bakersfield: made my custom drive shaft in one day, very high quality Engine Pros, Inc: machine work, can prepare surfaces for multi layer head gaskets http://www.taprecycling.com/ Toyota and Lexus Recycling, Inc. For a good 5 speed tranny and flywheel. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ Modern Motorsports for my CV adapters, and rear disk brake kit.

I've also used engine paint with good results. This picture was taken about 4 years ago when I painted them. And here is how they look today: No cracking or pealing.

I've built both L28ET and 7M-GTE 240Z's and the L28ET project was finished much much quicker, and for much less money/greef. With some very minor bolt ons it was enough power to make driving the car a ton of fun. I like that you can still purchase a JDM 7M-GTE, but L28ET's are too old to find with only ~40K miles. Many people have just dropped a junk yard L28ET in after checking for good compression and didn't even sweat the mileage. Ultimately you'll be wanting to pull the head on your L28ET to freshen things up just as you would with the 7M, and a metal head gasket with good fasteners is recommended for any high boost application. I agree with Sparks280zt about if you want to make up to 350hp then the l28et would do the job, but if you want to make more you will probably save money in the long run with the 7M. I haven't officially anounced it, but my 7m-gte project is under boost now. It's a real neck jerker when boost roles in. My turbine housing may be a bit large because the hammer doesn't come down until about 3600 rpm. I'll be posting some pictures soon, later on this summer I'll have it dynoed.

Here is how I painted my wheels for my old `73 240Z Turbo. I polished the outer lip and the caps, then painted the spokes gun metal gray

If it were the tps you wouldn't be able to rev it while parked either. I had a similar problem after a long swap, ended up being fuel delivery problem due to the gas gunking up from sitting so long. Fuel presure guage verified the problem.

Very nice swap! I'm exactly where you are right now with my 7M swap. I had the car down for 3 years, and am now able to drive it around with no boost. Expect to have intercooler piping within a week and will post more info up at that time. Congrats on getting to this point. Hope to see a full detailed list of your mods.

7M-GTE !! Think the engine looks any better with a custom intake manifold? BTW, my 7M powered `72 240Z is running.

I found a local shop in my area that does mandrel bending. They were able to get the exhaust up much higher than I would have ever been able to do. They were able to shape it perfectly to get up along the tunnel real snug, and the picture angle doesn't do it justice. I think I have better clearance now than I had with the MSA 2 1/2" system. I'll post more pics of the car when I finish up the engine. I've been driving the 7M-GTE powered car without turbo hooked up for about 100 miles now. It's given me a good oportunity to make sure everything is sealed up and I wired correctly. BTW, I'm running Tokico struts/lower springs and I haven't rubbed yet. I used to rub with the MSA kit lightly sometimes. If you have the money it's definately worth having a shop that can put those important bends in to get that clearance. The shop I took my car to is Bob's Muffler http://www.bobsmuffler.com/ The guys liked the car a lot. They can bend up to 4" pipe and I believe they make some kits that are shipped out all over the states. Located here in downtown Bakersfield, CA They can not bend aluminum pipe because they push a brass slug through while bending. The brass and aluminum would stick together too much. I plan on having them do my intercooler piping as soon as I have it mounted. I've been waiting on my silicone hoses from a guy named aileronone on ebay. He is very difficult and slow to deal with. The price seemed well worth it, but not worth the trouble.

I just had mine done, so thought I'd add it in here as well. This is a mandrel bent system, all stainless with the same magnaflow muffler on my 7M-GTE. It's actually not all that loud, it's not a racy sound, kind of just low and rummbly. Will post more pics of the engine swap as soon as I finish up some more things.

Wow!!! That is awesome. Very happy for you, was this with higher octain this time? Looks like your site is down, can't wait to see the dyno chart. I'd be great to see it in action, maybe you could put together a video some time?

Do search.

http://zhome.com/~aktar/mafz/ as some of the projects on this site, I did not finish this, but I did collect a lot of interesting information. The MAF uses a higher voltage output, and the voltage output is the oposite of the AFM door type. The AFM has a very linear output while the MAF was more exponential (curved). I did make this black box, but found that it was not as flexable as I would have liked, and a large reason behind this was the flexability. If anyone else would like to get started I can help. It will likely take a small processor and a few anolog to digital converters, along with digital to analog converters. 2 of each I would expect (1 for each flow meter, and 1 for each differnt type of temp sensor). I used a PIC Micro processor, it seemed quick enough for the small task. The reason this will not work well for different sized injectors is because the injector pulse rate is directly connected with the timing change. However, in a stock configuration I expect a small amount of adjustment to be okay, and the conversion to MAF would be helpfull. On the other hand, many people have made loads of power with the stock flapper door type AFM's. I do understand their weeknesses, but you could optionally look for power gains else where. When they are functioning correctly they do their job as they were designed.

Thanks for the update Matt. Looks pretty mean with that intercooler. I have a similar issue with my down pipe with the 7m-gte. As you have pointed out there are a few issues with having the exhaust sitting right there, you have your brake line (I moved mine over as well, for now), wires, and in my case I had to worry about the heater hoses getting too warm, or possibly flexing a little and touching the exhaust. I thought about getting a heater hose with the multiple 90 degree bends that I needed, but ended up going with copper pipes that are used for plumbing with little 90 degree bends that slip over. I was able to get pipe with the OD the same as my heater hoses. I think they will take the heat better than rubber hoses. I think I have to make a tighter bend in my exhaust than you: And here's a teaser picture of the whole engine. I'll start up a new thread when it's on the road. I'm pretty close: I'm just waiting on a clutch slave cylinder, exhaust and intercooler piping.

I wrote down some notes on wires when I dropped a L28ET into my `73. I think I cover the area you have in question: http://zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/

speeder aka Rick has the front msa air dam with flares http://rick.thebowersplace.com/webstuff/Car/Zcomp1.jpg Web page at: http://rick.thebowersplace.com/webstuff/Index.html Haven't seen with rear flares and msa matching rear. Rick's whole front end tilts, or is removeable, but the end result would be the same look.

Look foward to seeing what you'll be fabricating for the RB engine. Bet you have the engine on the stand right now sizing up some SS tubes that will be flowing you into the 9's Best of luck selling your engine setup, it's quite a piece of craftsmanship.

I didn't expect you'd get around to it so soon, wow. That's great. Let us know what you think after it's bolted on. I'm running a similar sized A/R T61. My intake manifold is about ready to be taken over to the welder, just waiting to finish up my 3 1/2" turbo flange lift from my header that wouldn't clear the larger turbo. Should all be bolted together and on the road within a couple weeks. What machine work are you going to do to prep the surfaces for the MHG? Do you know of a shop near you that can do lapping? Thinking of purchasing the lapping tool from SONiC?

It's been a while, but I believe you are holding the efi relays which include the relay and voltage modulator for the fuel pump and relay for the ecu, and I remember there being a seporate wire for the injectors. When I did a L28et swap I did away with all of it, wired the fuel pump up directly to be full on when the car was on and had no problems. The fuel pump is a little louder at idle this way, but it is one less thing to worry about. Here is a bit of writing I did on the subject: http://zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/ Best of luck wiring it up. I traced every wire in the 280zx haynes manual. A few wires, like the power for ecu and coil intermix with the chassis wireing harness. I've since sold the car and my notes along with it, so can't help you any further.

Very nice and inspiring to say the least. As far as we know clifton has the quickest 7M powered Z, for now at least I just recieved my rear disk brake conversion and CV adapters from modern motorsports. Very nice looking stuff. I have it all bolted in, little clearance issue with my sway bar, but I think a little grinding will make it clear. Also just picked up my drive shaft today. Get to take the car off of the jacks finally. Should be on the road by the end of the month if all goes well. As far as install goes for the 7M if you do a search I think you can find some pictures I took of my mounts and descriptions. I put my battery in the back because my header swings out pretty wide. Should be the same amount of work to install the 7M as it is to install the RB.