bodie

im guessing you were using the cheap paper gasket, if using those you have to retighten them several times. i usually tighten and keep checking each bolt as the car warms up. and after a quick drive. but its just easier to get the steel/graphite or copper gasket.

reverse lockout is a pita to get through if not wired up. either wire it to a seperate switch of from you brake switch. its just a 12v selonoid.

pm sent

pm sent

Well it look center but its actually a little bit off to the right to clear the parking brake but since the diff is off center slightly there is less than a 1/4 inch difference from the axle flange to each knuckle, so i should be able to use equal length axles. I havent match the pinion angle yet but when i made the front mount i had slotted the hole in the lower mount to give me enough room to adjust pinion angle with shims if need be, but as it sit not im about 3 degrees, and i can lower it to 0 if need be. I used both an upper and lower so the diff wouldn't move, under acceleration your diff going to move up esp so if you are racing and under decel its goingto move down. making a heaver mount is going to elimate the front movement and should help control any wheel hop. And as far athe the axles i plan of using the tenhno toy set up, using their knuckles and using an outer cv from a z32 and just having shafts made.

i finally finished my front mounts, i built an upper and lower mount to keep the front of the diff from moving underload. i also had to clerance the body but to to bad. it looks good and i got seven degrees on the inner cv and less than 20 at full drop. i was worried since the inner is a tripod cv and your not supposed to have over 25 on a tripod cv. it looks tight but i still have enough room to run the stock parking brake cables. so far the tough part whas deciding where i wanted the diff, i had made several front and rear mounts before i found the best place for it. where i have it now i didnt have to notch the rear frame. now all i have left is get custom shaft made and finish building the rear suspension. some ford irs info, i used an irs from an 03 mustang cobra. but you can get one from the lincoln mark 8 up to 98, the supercoupe and ford explorer 01-04 cobra has 31 spline diff with 03-04 having stronger inner cv. lincoln mark 8 super coupe and 99-00 cobra have 28 spline diff. the mark 8 diff cave is idential to the cobra, both are aluminum. and the 8.8 internals can all be swapped around. as long as you axles match the carrier. but a 28 spline carrier from a solid axle can be swapped to irs with 28 spine axle and so forth with 31 spine. the ford exporer diff has a diffrent cover then the rest as well as being an iron case.

hey man ive got two r200 laying around , one welded and one open and im in waco i dont know the ratios but can find out if you want

with the roller made of aluminum its gonna have a tendency to bind. i would suggest using and heavy grease, aka wheel bearing grease to keep it lube and avoid binding.

bwahahaha!! thats awesome, you think someone would notice that before it got on the air.

ill prob run in the 3.73 range most of the ford guys are not breaking diffrentials there breaking axles the major advantage of the 8.8 is the wide selecion of gears mutiple carriers and be able to get parts to rebuilt them cheap. so no hunting for the right gear ratio and not spending 1200+ for a quafie, ill be able to put bearings and gears in for 300 and get a new posi carrier for less than 500

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/lsx-discussions/ls-x-based-s10-truck-conversions-2721.html here a link doing a quick search showing a diffrent pumps

there are several diff oe water pumps for the ls series it look like you using a fbody pump you might you might a vette or gto one, thatll have a shorter nose. but you prob gonna half to spend some time at you local parts store to fing the size you want

yea it pretty heave but it the next size up from .080 and the original frame rail are weak and be dented easily. yea i do lose a little bit of ground clearance but its gonna be the same level as the exhaust and if they scrap it wont be a big deal cause not like it gonna do any damage to the frame.

yea they get stuck sometimes, ive got a special press for ujoint but for the one that are stuck good ive been know to use a BFH and tap them out on a vice. and if you think you halfshaft are bad ive got a set you can have if you dont mind driving to waco.

any one know the spline count and length of the outer cv, the shaft that goes into the hub, on a q45 or 300xz . im hoping some one has som laying around that know the measurements. thanks bodie

after step 3 your cap should b sticking out enough to where you can get a big pair of channel lock and twist it out, then repeat step 3 again for the other side.

well i spent about 4 weekends building the rails and floor pan, im currently cleaning some of the welds and getting ready for paint and seam seal. alot of the weld i used weld tru primer so it look like i didnt prep, its just the primer it make burn marks.

moved it up 1 inch and it looks good, the front mount looks to be easy. i plan one making and upper and lower mount, i plan on welding the upper inplace and bolting the lower to the diff strap mount holes. i did incounter another problem, since the cast in mount on the cover is off center the diff if to far over to the left and i need to move it to the right 1/2 inch, im gonna try and drill the mustach bar.

swapped a 280 mustache bar instead of the 240 it made a big diffence. made a rough mount out of angle iron and mocked and control arm up and a cv shaft. it looks like im gonna have to raise it another inch to clear the control arm mount. the plan is to get the diff mounted buy gabs setup for the knuckles and see if i can use the cobra outer cv or use the q45 cv but either way get custom shafts made. after looking and studing the cobra irs i found it wasnt gonna be easy to use the cobra subframe a-arm or knuckles.

ive been throwing this ideal around in my head for a while and today i pick up a complete cobra irs got it real cheap due to the center section needed to be rebuilt but thats not a biggie for me ive rebuilt my share of 8.8. any how here is the a rought fit the front mount gonna not be a big deal i figure id build some thing similar to the rt mount and the rear id either make a bracket to bolt it to the mustasche bar or modify a nother cover by welding a block of alumun to it and putting studs in it similar to the stock r180. its in a rough location and as it sit now the inboard axles will be 1" forward than with the r180. now do i leave it like that move it back and do it raise it more? let me know what you guy think

so of the injectors havethe plactic cap to help hold the oring, you local part store should have an oring kit that may include the cap, each part store are diffrent.

good progress. did you just bolt the sway bars through the frame? and for a better lube for the sway bar used brake pad silicone grease it doesnt was off and stay on longer. it usually come in little packs when you buy brake pads.

man you donig it the hard way. if you had a lift itd take you half as long. hell i can drop one in less than 2 hours. but speaking of the hard way i knew a guy who took the heads off to take the motor out the top, now that really was the hard way oh and next time take the harness and ecm out with the motor, there only one connector (i belive it to be blue)behind the glove box that you have to feed through the fire wall.

they want to drain the coolant cause they also want you to remove the coolant line the connects both head at the rear. some people get to agresive when trying bend it out of the way when removing the intake.

easy fix dont do a 6-5 down shift while on the brake. but i actually tried once, at about 30 mph wondering if i could get into gear. all i did was grind an not got in.