bodie

swapping the corba irs over but using the center section, shorting the axles and using the ford hubs. elimanating the datsun stub axle. the only problem i see will be the wheel bearings, making th ford one fit, find one off a diffrent car to make work or have custom ones built. been thinking about this and wonder if it can or has been done.

i never tried it but if you have some spare sbc parts laying around, you could try replacing the key with one for a gen 1 motor and use a regular 350 balancer then index the balancer but you would aslo have to fap up some accsories brackets of if you have room you could fab a dis in the rear in the intake.

http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/superstore40/storepics/balancer.jpg heres and oem type balancer

http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/cam_install/500/31%20Balancer%20and%20hub.jpg here a pic of what im talking about you see the nub on the hub and he triangle on the balancer unfortunally this look to be an aftermerket bancer and doesnt have the 2 simicircles

the bancncer are zero balance, you can index then any way you want, but there should be a little nub between 2 bolt hole on the hub, and one the balancer there is what looks to be 2 simicircle and 1 triangle between the hub mounting bolt holes line the triangle to the nub. that the way the were mounted at the factory and i just like to put them back the way they were.

that nice what you friends website woud he be instrested in making a set for sbc ?

look in the gallery there are alot of guys just filling them in and not runnig marker lights.

prob be easier to buy the crank pully that matches the water pump pulley

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool.html i found this a couple weeks ago, though about buying one but havent yet, prob wont untill i for sure will need it

TCI sells a stand alone tcm form computer controlled transmission, http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Electronics/ email them to be sure it will work with the transmission the newr one are a little diffrent

i doesnt look that bad the front suppport isnt even touching the motor, just open the hood inspect the motor and assories for any damage, ive bougtha wrecked car a couple year age and the the whole front end was shoved about a foot back, some of the assries were damaged and i had to cut the motor out but the motor itself was fine

the long term is what you have to worry about, short term go off the long term adjust to try to bring short term back to center you can run with the o2 unplugged it will stay in open loop, and wont adjust for that side unpluged one at a time and observie 02 and trim readings depeing on year of you pcm you can either unpluged the battery for 30 min , disconnected the ecm fuse for 10 min or use a tech 2 as long a your 02 are not at the rear wheels and are between the 9 12 to 3 o clock position you shouldnt have a problem.

only in closed loop, you may possible have a bad o2 check long term fuel trim and see which is furter off of center unplug o2, reset fuel trim and drive to see if it fix it temporality.

i dont remeber about the pick up tube and i dont have my gmpp book right now buy your pick up tube when you buy your pan , to be sure you get the right tube, esp if you buying a bolt on tube, the stock press on has a bit of adjustment if all else measure pan clearance using modeling clay should be 1/4 from the bottom corvette http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performance_parts/store/catalog/Product.jhtmlPRODID=974&CATID=968.html camaro http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performance_parts/store/catalog/Product.jhtmlPRODID=969&CATID=968.html

you just building adapters? for tb you got any pics? can you build 4150 to 4100 with less than 1" hieght? i only say this cause ive gor a single plane efi intake and a 4100 tb but the current spacer is like 3" with the hat wont fit under the hood

what are you long term fuel trim? is that the cam you have in you sig? are you still runnig stock programming? both code could be none issue and you have another prob if you have one try running you can with out the maf plugged in

the ls series has so many improvement built into the motor it self that it would be really hard to get that kind of milage out of the lt series or gen 1 the ls has lighter valve train componts , almost fragile lighter pistons gundrilled cranks the heads flow and scanvage better and the cooling system keeps every thing and an optimial temp, and does flucatuate as much. not to mention the the ecm is faster and better able to control fuel short of building a race motor with light componts a really mild cam and a late model pcm it willl be kinda hard to simulate the same results

on the corvette oil pan the sump is longer and not a deep as a camaro pan since the frame rail crosses in the front below the balancer i see no reason why it wouldnt fit when i finish my motor i poan on a corvette pan, for the better ground clearance and extra quart of oil.

you can just replaced the center section on the new gm maf, there is 3 part to the new maf the 2 outer housing and the center section, the f-body guys swap out the outer housing for aftermarket better flowing housings.

dont use the zf 6 speed ts junk get he borg-warner t56 you usualy can find complete pullout kit from 1000-2000, check local wrecking yards, ebay and other car forums you can use the t5 if you want but they are weak and break easily. other options are tko 5 spd, richmond 5 spd, but cost alot more than a used t56

it can be as close or as far as you want as long as there is no air leak in between now i have see at a car show, and ls1 tb directly mated to the maf, custom?? i dont know i did a quick seach and found nothing, may be welding the tb to the maf housing . since there both alum i can see it being done by a good welder. the one one i saw looked powder coated red. speed and performance has some custom ls1 part you might check them out

junk the cable you dont need it. brake lock out, make you apply the brake to shift out of park. you apply the brake, which activates the seloniod that releases the cable to enable shifter to move.

it that an t56 you got behind that, and if so is you motor back as far as it can go?

rule of thumb if you think you gona need it to pass emission in your state keep it on, emission part on late models motors dont effect the performance of a vehicle, and most like the egr only come on at part throttle. the air pump on a lt1 is electric soe it dont matter. but if your not running catalyc converters you dont need to run and air pump.