bodie

John the way gm has the solenoid wired from the factory is power on when ever the veh is less than 3mph so if you are long at a stop light it was gonna be powered any how. but the switch on the shifter works to as well as a shifter knob with a nitrous button but if you wire it from the brake you dont have to fidget with an extra switch when trying to get into reverse. and also those solenoid are fairly robust, they rarely got out and in all my years ive only replaced one.

yes it is a 12v selonoid, you can power it from you brake switch. so it applies when you step on the brake and be able to get into reverse.

here some pics with the 16ga floor pan

here some pics of the 93 t56 note the lack of skip shift

the oem fliuid is dextron 3 but the oem automatic honda will help it shift smoother here a link to d&d performace a supplier for t56 parts http://ddperformance.com/ a link to the t56 service manual can be found at there site http://ddperformance.com/techinfo.php btw a good way to wire the reverse lock out is power it from the brake lights so it will only go into reverse when you step on the brake, ive done this and it works well. the 93 t56 didnt have skip shift, so it easy to tell the diffrent ratios just look for a mising selonoid. and to help you there was no pre93 gm t56 only 93 and 94-97 then the ls1 series 98+,

here a couple of pic of my frame rails im building for my 73 240. im using 2x3 tubing with .125 wall, it might be over kill but i want this car stiff. yea some of welds dont look good but i got good penetration and its a pain to weld on your back. i also plan on connecting the frame rail with sheet metal to the sill.

that look good i was thing of doing the same thing. btw can i get better picture of you hood latch ? it looks like you did some thing diffrent?

ok i think you guys are splitting hairs, as you replace the rubber bushings with heim-ends you reduce the amount of toe in you would need to have to compensate for deflection in the suspension during load. ex you would normally have 15degrees total toe on a stock suspension you wouldnt need to run that much since your gonna have less deflection and you would bring it down closer to zero. reducing suspension bind.

btw if you plan on running at a NHRA track it wont pass tech if mounted on the firewall

ive got a stock manual harness in storage. rear o2 connectors damaged.

the lsd will usually have a sticker vicous lsd or vicuos fluid only and will usually have fins cast in the cover. but you wont no any thing else without pulling the cover.

if you still want one i got a 280 here in waco im bout to cut up ill let you have it free minus the suspension or 300 with the suspension. no motor no trans let me know before i pull the suspension

ive used both high temp wheel bearing grease and moly that came in a kit just a little dab here and there and put a light coat on the shaft spline

i know im late on this but here what i use and it works great, as good as the dealer tool and much less expensive. http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-320357-tct1028.aspx

some of those pumps just make noise, no matter what you do you could swap for a new one and it may or may not make noise.

you could alway pull the left valve cover and watch the springs, it will get you in the general area. +- 10

i seen a couple the pertronix seem to work pretty good, but as cheap as an rebuilt hei it prob be a cheaper route to go, you should be ableo to ge a large cap hei for less than 100 at you local parts store.

it will work but you will have to buy a converision kit, bell housing, clutch master and slave cylinder your best bet is to use a 93-97 f-body t56 then you just used the stock stuff and mount the master and slave

if you motor is a one piece and internally balanced then you should be able to use the stock lt1 flywheel

with proper maintaince ive seen stock/slighty moded sbc last over 200k. its not really hard for a sbc as longas your not too extrame on the motor and dont run it hot.

im not runnig an lt1 just a sbc i ordered pan 15-240 but i didnt use the canton pickup i m using the new melling pump 10555 with the melling pickup 12557 but i did have to bend the pickup tube to fit into the pan an also i am not running sanderson headers im buiding the exhaust myself.

cdk how mush did you have to shorten the whole setup and do you have any pics ?

i got the 7 in corvette canton pan and it is sturdy if i bottom out with this i have no dout that it will take it

relay are like that they work good than all of a sudden they dont btw did you mount the button in the cig lighter hole? do you have and pic of the finished install

sorry guys about the title i search and found some ford irs swap but i oculdnt find any pic or info on how? i know swapping the diff ove is the easy part, but i want to replaced the stub shaft with the ford axle and hub assembly