CableSrv

http://www.subaru-global.com/assets/files/a4/8c18f73c874c42b072200acb14397a.jpg this is what subaru's Torsen's look like.

Ok so bigger question.. with what problem I stated. Is it at all possible that the CV's would cause this type of issue? considering it drives normally under normal throttle can I eliminate them as a possibility and just hunt down the LSD unit as the culprit. I plan to take the diff out again this weekend and see what I can find.

But agreed, I need to look into the R180 and see what is going on. Just odd that it behaves normally under normal driving conditions and only acts up under tire slippage.

Some reports are AWD and some are from RWD conversions.

Well this diff has to be stronger than my stock R180 since it only has 25 spline inputs and only 2 pinions vs 27? spline and 4 pinion + Torsen lsd. And my stock R180 had no issues currently handling the LS1, however the halfshafts on the other end are very close to being grenades. Not sure why you guys think 300-340 is too much for a R180? STI's typically get boosted pretty easily to those power levels and beyond.

Only reason I went with the R180 from the subbie was because I've seen conversions done to make them RWD only and push 500hp to them. It seems it's a popular thing to do for drift cars. However that said I don't plan to do clutch dumps and never have. I do however stomp on the gas, which with the torque a ls1 has, makes for easy tire slippage. Then having tiny ass tires also helps!

Stock engine, with 3in exhaust and JTR's cold air intake.. so probably around 310-340? Roads are dry but I have tiny tires 195/50r14? Didn't feel any wheelhop, it was pretty smooth the first burnout however ever since then is when I get the clunk. I have never tried a reverse burn out... but I can try? tho noise definitely comes from behind me. I do have RT mount with polyurethane mount.

Ok, so I bought DSS's kit to replace the half-shafts with 930cv's and includes the inner stub axle for the STI R180. I bought a used STI R180 from eBay and looked inside to verify that it was indeed a Torsen unit. Finally got them all replaced and took her for a drive and everything seemed normal under normal driving conditions. So figured I'd see how well the diff would handle the power of a LS1 and stomped on the throttle. Tires broke loose like normal and everything seemed fine for a little while, then a weird popping/grinding noise started happening anytime I am under major power. Car drives normal under normal conditions... but anytime I apply power that would otherwise cause the tires to break loose, this horrible grinding/popping noise occurs. Could it be the 930cv's ? Could it be the Torsen LSD? Could it be the 930 conversion input stub axles for the STI R180? Something is making a horrible noise under power but otherwise no noise at all driving normally? No clue what the hell is going on and I probably need to drop the diff again and check inside... but has me worried that the LSD went bad? or that the 930cv's are junk from DSS.

Finally got my kit a few days ago and was going to install it today... the DSS R180 subie kit does NOT fit a series one 240z! The axles are to long. While in the air and the wheels off and the suspension at full droop the axle has no ability to slide. Upon lifting the A-Arm to normal squat, the CV binds and never reaches normal squat. I now have to remeasure them and let them know how much they are off and they said they'll get me another set. edit: Even tho I have a series one 240z, I have already done the fix for the diff to move it back 1in using a later model mustache bar, and I'm also using the RT front diff mount. So my R180 should be sitting in the same exact spot as all other 240/260z's

Oh good point! Thanks RebekahsZ! Thankfully I just picked up some red locktite. I do have to grab some anti-seize tho. However it's going to be awhile before I get it all. DSS stated 3-4 weeks build time.

So just ordered a Subaru STI R180 with torsen and ordered DSS's CV kit + subie R180 stub and a Ron Tyler mount. This should tie me over for a very long time. Next is rims/flairs.

In this order is what you have on your rear end. The stuff in bold is what comes with each respective kit wheel -> Stub axle -> Companion flange -> halfshaft -> Inner stub -> Diff This is what Joe's kit looks like (wheel) -> Stub axle -> Companion flange -> 930cv -> billet inner stub -> (Diff) This is what DSS kit looks like (wheel -> Stub axle -> Companion flange) -> adapter -> 930cv -> billet inner stub -> (Diff)

You are not seeing a stub axle and companion flange you are seeing a INNER stub axle which plugs into the R180 diff. The Outer stub axle and companion flange is not present in DSS's kit This is the outer stub axle and companion flange https://zcardepot.com/image/cache/data/axle-900x900.jpg This is what your wheel bolts too and what mates your axle to the wheel. The thing you are seeing in DSS's picture is an adapter plate used to convert the 930cv 6 bolt flange to the stock datsun 4 bolt companion flange and the Inner stub axle that connects to the STI R180 diff. Joe's kit includes the entire set of 39 spline stub axle and companion flange aka the 4 parts on the far left http://nebula.wsimg.com/51ff37b895e4cba6ae370ed0dd1eee54?AccessKeyId=E0140F9B09881878CF3E&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 Also the DSS kit you linked is specifically for the Subaru STI R180 diff not the stock R180 in a datsun. The R180 in a subbie is a torsen LSD with snap ring style inner stub's. The R180 in a datsun is a bolt in stub. You cannot use the inner stubs between the 2 diffs. Which is why DSS offers a 300m stub to mate in the Subbie R180 diff.

Joe's kit has the 39 spline stub axle, flange and inner R200 stub DSS has the 300m R180 inner stub for the STI R180 diff, but does not include the stub axle and companion flange. Both use a 930cv design but it's unknown what DSS does for the inner cage and star gear. Joe's cage and star use 300m. Now the 39 spline part of Joe's kit is probably the most expensive part of his kit. Stub axle is 830 Companion flange is unknown but either around 440-540 based around his other flanges. (Zcardepot sells their 39 spline companion flange for 699 for the 930cv) Since it is a 930cv design there are plenty of manufactures out there that sell 300m cages and stars to replace whatever you break. A complete kit of 300m parts usually runs 930+ bucks.

Looking at the adapters that DSS use it looks like it might take up the difference from a stock flange plus the adapter... but not sure? Probably have to measure it vs a stock flange + their adapter.

Oh heck yea! Thanks man!

I couldn't find the porsche companion on whitehead's website? I found 300zxt, 280zx and the R230 flanges, but nothing related to the 930cv type.

Well newzed made a very fair point. Not all 930cv's are the same. While they share the same design, material strength on the other hand could be different. It seems that wolfcreek and TroyE haven't beefed theirs up. From what I've read about the weaknesses of the R180 and R200 is that R180 are only 2 pinion diffs and also smaller ring gear which means slightly less load. However the R200 having 4 pinion's plus slightly bigger ring gear have seen 800+ hp from people. The downside to the R200 is a decent CV option and the stub axles. As stated most cv kits minus the DSS kit are rated at about 400hp. However DSS stated theirs is rated to 800hp which would mean the weakest link would be the stub axles? The STI R180 is upgraded to 4 pinion + torsen LSD which should be much stouter than a stock R180 and roughly as stout as a R200... however the inner stubs are the weak link.... which is where DSS comes in! They have 1000hp rated stub -> 930cv adapter that just snaps into the STI R180 and complete cv kit. Which would now make the weakest link the 280z outer stubs/flange. Which I can upgrade to the MMS 39 spline kit if they also offer a 280 flange to match the stub they make? If not then I'll stick to 280z 27 spline stub/flange till I can find a upgrade to that? But I figured, that with lack of money and lack of time to have the car down, that it would just be better to lower my HP goals down to around 400 and thus save myself headache on getting all the parts needed and breaking the bank just on the rear end.

The speedo and tach slide in from the front, the stock 3 in the center can be reached at by removing the front panel. So it is possible to get to the gauges without taking the dash out... however it can be a slight be annoying.

I think, I have decided to tone down my HP requirements, and go with a subaru STI torsen LSD as these are easy as hell to get and use stock components. DSS makes a 800hp rated cv kit for 1200 which will keep me in budget and be good for around 450hp. I've read a lot of post from the subbie guys that do RWD conversions for drifting on the stock R180 that they have in the STI models or upgraded to the STI diff. With this I don't have to upgrade my driveshaft, or buy new mounts, but will need to buy DSS's CV kit for 1200 + source a 3.54 STI R180 LSD which can be had from anywhere of 400-650 on ebay. It seems that the torsen lsd R180's are much more stout since they are using 27 spline inner stubs vs the datsun R180 using 25 spline inner stubs. Does anyone make a upgraded stock companion flange? Chequered has 39 spline stub versions but not with a stock mating companion flange, only upgraded to new companion flanges.

The only reason I was negative to the 930cv is because both wolfcreek, and troy ermish cv's are based on the 930 design and neither of them state they would withstand more than 400hp. Plus there is a post on the forums showing damage to the cromoly ball cage. But you are right, not all 930cv's are the same! But the question is what makes one inherently stronger than the other? and how do you verify? Chequered said theirs is rated to 800hp... but has anyone run theirs to verify how strong they are? As NewZed stated, people throw out chromoly a lot without it carrying too much meaning. A better question is how do we know how well it was heat treated?

I have not found any local sources of Z's in the DFW area so a clsd R200 is extremely rare and I'd have to pay someone out of state to ship me one, if I could even find one online. I would in a heartbeat if I could find one reasonably priced. I have no problem doing leg work or even some light fab work since I have a Tig welder. My original goal for the car is around 500-550hp. With AFR heads and a good texasspeed cam and fast 102 intake, it's pretty easy to get to the 500 range NA at least from what I've seen on ls1tech.com I was originally planning on finding a junkyard R200V and 4x axles + drive shaft and buying T3's front diff mount for the R200V. However what has stumped me was the inner halfshaft section as moser no longer produces the shafts that the original post talks about. That and we apparently no longer use an adapter but instead use a new companion flange.. so Not even sure what size length I need? The mustache bar I can get redrilled for the R200V. And I was planning on using Chequered R230 companion flange with the upgraded 280z stub... (later down the road buying chequered's billet 27 spline stub) I don't plan to drag race, but I do plan to have some spirited driving and some track days. I never really cared for drag racing at all and probably will never be doing clutch dumps either. So far my stock halfshafts/R180 have put up with the LS1 but for how long is a big question. I don't think I want to get caught going to work and having my rear end grenade on me. Right now I'm stock LS1 hp/tq however I do plan to upgrade and figured might as well upgrade my rear end for my end goal of how much HP I want so that I don't have to revisit it.

NewZed I'm not trying to be difficult, however you are trying to claim I have not absorbed any info at all which is incorrect. I'm simply going based off what I've researched on this site and others. By all means if you have more accurate information please post it. SleeperZ I agree that T3's solution is awesome, however I don't want to go their route simply because I don't want to have to replace my rear suspension again when my suspension is already in good condition. Chequered solution is even more expensive and does not facilitate the R230 or R200V differential. And is based on the 930cv design which has me worried. And is still based on the R200 which I don't have and will still need to find one which is rare in LSD form at least in texas it is. I have been trying to follow the normal R230/R200V swap, but due to the site outage some information has been lost. Not to mention the loss of Ross from modern has set this upgrade back a bit. Thankfully Chequered was able to pick up where Ross left off, but the halfshaft/axle part of the CV does not appear to be listed anywhere. Moser does not seem to make these anymore and DSS just quoted me 600 for the pair. T3's 480 price tag for the cv rebuilt has me cautious simply because I think they are relying on the Q45 hubs which I will not be relying on so not sure if their axles are the same as how Ross had designed the upgrade. There are a few things I'm concerned with using Chequered's R230 companion flange vs the length's posted in the Q45 swap thread. In that thread they were using Ross's old adapter that mated to the 240/280z stub/flange. Does this new companion flange match the same dimensions that Ross's old adapter did? or does this flange mean I have to buy a different length axle vs what was posted?

Also the R230 uses the same 6 bolt style CV stubs as the R200V from a Q45, so the share the same axles minus their length which is why I have to have custom axles made to a certain length.

I'm full aware that the Q45 is not a diff, however it is a known swap that uses a R200V that shares much of the same type of CV's that the R230 use which is why most people talk about them the same. I also understand that chromoly is an over used word, however that is only talking about ChequeredFlagracings stub axles and companion flanges. I'm also fully aware what years they come from and know exactly what to ask for when it comes to T3's front mount. The only issue I have currently is finding the actual axles as moser no longer makes them and DriveshaftShop just quoted me 600 for the pair of custom axles. As for the 930cv I'm only going based off what other users have reported on this site about the bearing cages failing at above 400hp. considering it's a shared cv design, I can only assume most 930cv designs will have the same fault, but I could be wrong. Either way Chequered wants 3200 just for the CV's not including the diff or mounts, which would do me nothing since I still need to upgrade my diff from a R180 open style. Hell even T3's system is cheaper than Chequereds and comes with diff mount, and new hubs, and new coilovers/camber plates.