CableSrv

Being a huge arduino person myself this sounds awesome. But you would have to figure out the pulses that your MSD puts out to translate that into stepper motion. Unless they've already written a library for that translation? I will now be ordering me one of those and seeing if I can interface it with the ls1 ECU and read off the tach pulses.

Looking at the summit 16 gallon fuel cell with sender and mounting looks to be around 230? plus misc metal to make a frame?

And on another note of crap that sucks... after modifying the stock 71 tank to have a sump... I did not add baffles for braking... so under moderate/hard braking I get fuel starve issues.... at this point I think I might as well just go fuel cell and be done with it.

At first I didn't know, but as soon as I opened the hood it was very apparent. It wasn't spewing oil like a fountain or anything but enough came out to soak the down pipes of the headers and cause smoke. Luckily I wasn't far from home and hopefully didn't cause any major damage. I still had a good amount of oil left. Oil smoke is what let me know something was wrong...

Took her on the highway and a problem came up... the stock ls1 oil sender snapped off during rebuild and completely forgot about it. All that was holding back oil pressure was that tiny little yellow plastic disk... and the least to say under full throttle joining the highway it blew... lost some oil but took her home quick. Found a m16x1.5 oil drain plug from napa auto and used that to replug that oil pressure switch. Ended up having to add another 2.5 quarts of oil back in. Hopefully that shouldn't have hurt the engine. Engine still sounds solid but you never know when you start losing oil. Other than that, I really need to cover the trans tunnel where the shifter is... so much hot air comes in from there.

She's fully legal now!!! Felt great driving her around! Tho no ac in Texas sucks! Suspension is way to soft, hatch vibrates due to no weather stripping, and heat comes from the shifter hole badly.

unfortunately he's not local.. good news is the guy from chevy thunder is in san antonio!! which is a few hours drive from DFW! So once I'm legal I could probably take it to him to get fixed for free.

I have not got that sorted, however from reading ls1tech.com, it doesn't seem to matter as it does not affect the engine running at all. My pcm was already modified from chevythunder to remove all that. However this can't be done via mailing in my pcm. This has to be done on the car locally to fix it. Either way so close to being legal. This friday I'll be going get insurance, inspection, and registration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QR3mAvUL4q4

Added my stock sway bar with polyurethane bushings and makes a world of a difference!

my hi beam selector switch broke last night after I finished relays.. can he replace that switch? or does it just clean and send it back?

That would be awesome if you did! I wonder tho if the stalk would fit our steering column? or is the s13 smaller?

So given our cars are 40+ years or so old now, these old switches and levers are worn out and hard to find for a reasonable price. Even if you do find one restored.. it is still using old technology. Almost every aspect of our cars now has some form or another of modernized upgrades. From headlights to suspension, you can upgrade your Z to be more modern... but the steering column switches! I think it's time we start looking into finding a replacement or design a new one ourselves. I'm going to start taking measurements of the column and see if it's possible to make a new switch system. I have a 50x50 cnc router that I made long ago, and can probably use that to make new parts. (I currently need to retrieve it from storage tho as I recently moved..) Either make new parts using modern switch technology, or find a replacement steering column switch from another car that could be adapted with a bit of wiring. Lets discuss what options we have and see if we can all make the Z a better car than it is!

Grats on your progress!! mines almost ready to be legal to drive!!!

YUP! wired everything up using the EZ-wiring 12 mini kit! The only thing really holding me back from making this legal is horn gauges? (using obd2 bluetooth with cell phone for digital gauges) hi beam indicator? insurance inspection registration.... I need to add relays to my headlights tho, and plan to today. I have parts on order to get my stock 18mm sway bar remounted. And have a bluetooth obd2 plug so that I can use my phone as digital gauges to pass inspection, until I can actually afford gauges. After reading ls1tech about my crank position sensor P1336 code, many are saying it does NOT affect the engine at all (as long as no other codes are present) and it is only used for misfire detection. Most say I should just have a tuner remove the DTC for it and that way I never get a code again.

Woo!! got my wipers finally wired with park! Apparently the EZ 12 kit only has a wiper power wire and that goes directly to the wiper, while the 3 other wires from the switch are the grounds. Using the honda wiper diagram with the relay for park it was pretty easy to match up http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/26561-honda-wiper-motor-upgrade-for-the-240z/ blue/red = purple wiper power wire black = chassis ground rest is the same as the above link for wiring in the relay. The only difference is the black wire that comes off the wiper motor itself, should just be tied to the chassis where it is. I simply left about 4in's worth of wire and added a ring terminal and attached it to the metal right next to the mount point. Now my wipers work perfectly and still park!

As RebekahsZ said, it's simple. There is an o-ring in place to keep fluid from leaking, but it's only locked in by a small pin. Knock that out and push your new fitting in, then reuse the pin to lock the new fitting in. Done! Might I suggest that while you are working on that part of the transmission.. if you haven't already.. purchase a remote bleed clutch kit for the t56.. While the bottom hole is the clutch line from the MC, the top line is where you fill it... and not sure if you noticed where that line exits at under the trans tunnel.. but lets just say it's a total bitch to get to if you try to flush the fluid for the clutch. I have my remote bleed run up next to my tilton mc, so it makes bleeding my clutch stupid easy. Oh and RebekahsZ.. I got lucky I guess... I only had to bleed my clutch once and it's perfect!

Hmm, I'll contact John and see what he says. JoeK, I would love a tune but that's 500 bucks I don't have atm.. and would rather use that 500 bucks for gauges!!!

So I finally got my bluetooth obd2 plugin that I can use with my cell phone and see all my info. (water temp, fault codes, rpm, speedometer, and others) Apparently i'm displaying a P1336 crank sensor error. It seems using a 99pcm on a 98 motor that the pcm needs to relearn the motor... but unfortunately you need someone with a Tech2 or efi live tool to tell the pcm to relearn. I do not know anyone with this, and most dealers will not touch a car that is hybrid. I'm at a wall on what to do... anyone in DFW know someone with these scan tools that would be willing to take a few minutes to let my pcm relearn the motor?

the left piece is used to attach the side vent pull cables. There should be one on each side by the door hinge area. The other I'm not sure about.

yup! will replace my shoes once the SS lines come in so that I'm not bleeding over and over again.

http://lightningmotorsports.com/russell/russell-street-legal-brake-line-assembly/686550/i-103524.aspx these are on sale for 58 bucks.. I could not pass that up as everything I'm finding was 80 bucks or more for SS.. and Russel is a damn good brand!

RebekahsZ: Sure did!! man there was a lot of bubbles. Pedal definitely feels much better and brakes engage however after they engage you can tell they still have some give to them.. probably old worn out hoses. I think I also need to replace my rear shoes. So found my old 18mm front sway bar however have no mounts at all for them so going to have to shop around to get those.

So using the syringe method, I could reverse fill my brakes master cylinder... there were bubbles... and a lot of them. So MC was riddled with bubbles. After that I double checked my fronts and no bubbles there so decided to test it. With car on I can feel when the pedal causes the pads to engage and that push is pretty firm and quick which is good, however after the pads have engaged pedal pressure feels really squishy, this I have to attribute to 30+ year old brake hoses. I recently replaced pads and had my rotors turned so it can't be that part. So either SS lines or buying new factory hoses.

Thanks! can't wait till she's really drivable!

RebekahsZ, weird in almost all the cars I've worked on.. SS brake lines have definitely always changed the feel of how the pedal is. No more squishyness? I do agree that I need to rebleed them. I'm going give up on my mighty vac and try a reverse bleed technique using a syringe.. but only after I completely rebuild my MC... I think there is gunk and it just needs an overall cleaning. I also think my booster may not be fully setup right... as the PO before me already did so many shitty changes.. I wouldn't doubt that this is also one of those I don't know what I was doing things from him. So stock brakes, but front sway.. K so I need to find a new front sway bar.. When I got the car, it was missing one of the mounts and hanging off.. I think I might have actually thrown that sway bar away.. I'll need to check.. if not then I'll see if I can just order a front swaybar. and yea.. gauges.. man it would be nice to have actual gauges.