CableSrv

My compressor just arrived yesterday, so probably this weekend I'll be pulling my dash and starting the actual install.

I'm currently in the process of installing a vintage air gen II mini system. Just ordered my jci compressor/mount and awaiting it's arrival.

Yea just talked to Jake and he's agreed there is a problem. He's going to go ahead and send me another Set of HA's for the front and we'll run like that. Hopefully there isn't to much of an issue running 170lb springs all around.

I bought both the water temp and oil temp brass adapters.. the oil will NOT work with normal oil pressure senders as the intake manifold is in the way. However the 12x1.25 brass adaptor for the water worked perfect for my gauges. I ended up using the aluminum bracket by the oil filter and drilling and tapping that for my oil pressure sender. Doing this tho... meant I had to dent my header as it was slightly in the way.

I just wonder if there is a difference between the early model 71's vs the later model? I've already encounted the diff being forward compared to the old models and had to move it back.

RebekahsZ lol if I had the money to do coil overs I would have.. sadly I'm not rich. newzed: she was stock with blown struts and old springs... I would say tire gap was around 3-3.5ins. So I decided to do a suspension overhaul and get new struts and springs to fix the bouncy nightmare it was to drive a ls1 Z with no dampening. A few notes to make first! HA's are perfect! they are not too high as my rear is currently unloaded... I've removed spare tire well and old gastank and installed a summit 16 gallon. So the rear end is really light and probably the only reason why the VA's are not coil binding in the back but are coil binding in the front. I would bet if I sit in the car and fill the tank up to full, it would cause the rear to coil bind as well with the VA's back there. However since most of the floor is cut out and all I have is a empty tank back there... it's probably light enough to sit higher up. I either got defective VA springs or wrong part number? Only JDMWerks can tell me that. I sent him an email on ebay with the pictures and part numbers. Hopefully he gets back to me soon.

newzed I agree.. sadly by the time I noticed their price I had already ordered from jdmwerks. Originally I ordered the stagg struts with vogtland springs... however he said they are completely out of the rear stagg shocks for the next 5 months... I didn't want to wait that long and found a decent price on kyb's that I decided to just buy those and order the vogtland springs separately. However after ordering I noticed that brandcarp sells both for slightly cheaper.....

240z 71 early production version. I've tried VA's in front first and doing so the fronts were coil bind and yes I know what coil bind means. There was no travel left. The back had over a 3in gap so I thought I had them on backwards and decided to swap them so now VA's are in the rear and same issue. The rears however are not coil binding however they are still insanely low.. so much that there is barely any travel left. the VA's on my fronts still leaves me with 0 travel left however the HA's on the rear or fronts gives me 3in gap in fender well.

doesn't matter if I have HA in the rear and VA in the front. As with that configuration my fronts are coil bind and the front suspension leaves .25in of a gap. The VA springs are the problem.

jdmwerks is the guy and when I called him... he initially said that these spring wouldn't work with a ls1 Z... not sure how that's even possible... either way going to call him shortly and see what he says and maybe I just got bad springs.

http://imgur.com/a/i7lYf part numbers are HA 9161031 <-- these have normal ride height... maybe slightly lowered. VA 9161031 <-- these are the ones that are not working at all.. wether they are on front or back instant down to .25 of an inch gap as you can see in the pics.

did you take the waterpump off before you drilled and tapped? or is there some way to not get metal shavings in the radiator flow?

There were no part numbers or instructions in the box. I'm currently using KYB excel-g's for my shocks. I will take my wheels off and see if the springs themselves are marked.

So bought a set of vogtland spring from a guy on ebay and finally got them installed.. However I ended up getting 2 different pairs of springs? One pair was slightly thicker gauge metal and the other seemed to have tighter wind near the end. When I first installed them I used the smaller gauge spring in the front and that resulted in a .5in gap!!! the car looked like it had no suspension left to travel for the front! So figured must have them on backwards since the back is about 3in gap... So few hours later and swapped springs cept now the back is .5in gap and the front is about 3in gap!! Anyone have vogtland springs? Did I mistakenly get one pair incorrectly? Both pairs are exactly the same length and other than size of the wire gauge I figured they were normal.

number 2 4 and 5 please!

curious, how much does a set of fiberglass ones with speaker holes cost?

Put on the new 1in wilwood MC and found out something extremely stupid... apparently I had my brake check valve backwards... So flipped it and went for a drive.. I HAVE AMAZING BRAKES! 280z booster with 1in wilwood is awesome. I also managed to install my new hatch strut and woot no more 2x4 to hold it up. Now I just need to wait for the suspension and gauges to arrive and she should be a great drive!

No joke!! a good chunk of it is suppose to arrive today! I'm like a kid at christmas right now waiting to open my presents.

DARN IT!!

So just bought a huge list of things again. Summit 16 gallon tank with sender and foam. Summit tank mount 3x prosport gauges 2 1/16 tinted (fuel level, oil pressure, water temp) ls1 sender adapters (16mx1.5 to 1/8npt & 12mx1.5 to 1/8npt) stagg shocks and votland springs (these are apparently on back order from stagg for 5 months.... so ended up getting kyb excel g struts with votland springs) Wilwood 1in MC with special adapters vintage air gen 2 mini with face plate and hoses hatch strut since mine is blown Speedhut revolution 4.5 in gps speedometer and tach I have already installed a 8in booster from a 280z and while that seems better I feel I have more pedal travel than before. So trying the 1in mc and seeing how that works. Also bought new front wheel bearings and ball joints.

OH? Just when I finally got the money for it!! How much is my gauges now?

Man for the price of that conversion, you could have bought a gps speedhut gauge that would be way better.

Sweet! Will be in touch within the week to get these guages then.

Looking to get 2 gauges... GR4.5-TACH-02-DM 4-1/2" Tachometer Gauge 8K RPM Shift-light (Dash Mount) Colors: Day - Cool Blue dial // White font Night - Dial Blue Glow Font Style: Eurostile Tick Style: Standard Pointer: Black Blade White (Glows White) Bezel: Stealth Black Window: Flat GR4.5-GPS-03T 4-1/2" GPS Speedometer Gauge 160mph (w/ turn signal and high beam) Colors: Day - Cool Blue dial // White font Night - Dial Blue Glow Font Style: Eurostile Tick Style: Standard Pointer: Black Blade White (Glows White) Bezel: Stealth Black Window: Flat what would that cost me? Also why does everyone go with the 4in gauges over the 4 1/2 ? or the 5 1/2? is it because they want to keep using the original gauge pod? If I don't what is the max gauge size I can get?

If the MSD is actually using a 5 volt square wave, then that would be pretty easy to read and output. And while I agree speedhut does offer some awesome gauges... they are quite expensive compared to what the arduino would cost.