CableSrv

And just got back from my HR rep saying they will pay me less than what I thought I was suppose to get back for my college courses... so I'll only be getting 2k back instead of the 2.6k that I thought... so now I really have to do the Q45 swap on the cheap.

problem is you are using the 930cv's which in another post have been proven to fail due to the ball cages getting fatigued at around 400 something HP. Plus your kit is 3200.... I will however be buying your R230 companion flanges once I get my money. Sadly I'm on a very tight budget of 2600 to get a full Q45 setup done. Question is do you also have the axles that will pair up with your R230 companion flanges? if so how much are those since you don't advertise them.

Sweet! I'm currently planning to do the Q45 upgrade so I'll have a strong rear end for future upgrades to the engine. End goal is around 550 or so HP.

I already bought my suspension... Don't need to upgrade that again anytime soon. And while it would be nice to have coilovers not really important right now. Since I'm already planning on buying the 27 spline cromoly R230 companion flange... when I get another chunk of money I can buy the chromoly 27 spline stub axle from them too. So not to worried about the Q45 stuff.

Just got a response from Troy back. Says he's not comfortable with anything above 400 on his cv's.

If I had access to the tools he has and the waterjet that he uses to cut all his parts.. I wouldn't be worried about getting this done with what money I have

right now my tires are my weakest link being 195 series... but I want to upgrade my wheels to 16x10s with some proper rubber... which means my next weakest link is my R180 and halfshafts then my 240z stub axles. Is there any known CV option for the R200 that can support 500+ hp goals? If not then, it answers my question of using a stock R200. So that means Q45 for me. Is there anyone out there that makes cheaper companion flanges? or adaptors? for the Q45?

So I wonder if Troy Ermish's CV's are the same? If your's didn't hold up to the 430tq then will his? I've sent him an email about it asking if they have any info.. Right now unless I can find a good cv for a stock R200, I might be leading to the Q45 diff with their cv's... sadly it's just a much more expensive route. Some have reported running over 500hp to a stock R200 without any issues... so I can only assume the beefier R200V from a Q45 should be able to handle more.

From everything I've read on hybridz, the Q45 from 90-96 uses a short-nose R200V and the later years use a R230 I believe. However The question is will a long-nose or short-nose R200 handle my HP goals?

I'm doing an upgrade soon to my rear end as having a LS1 mated to my stock R180 using the stock 240z stubs and half-shafts are bordering dangerous destruction soon. I don't plan to do drag strips ever. I'm trying to budget as much as I can to support about 550-600hp/tq. So I've looked at the Q45 and 300zxtt diffs and everyone talks about the R230 being almost impossible to break... but no one talks about the Q45? I know it's much beefier than a longnose R200... but how much HP/TQ can one of them sustain? Would my goals of around 550-600 be to much for it? or should I aim for the R230? or would a stock longnose R200 from a 280z work with that type of HP/TQ? I know I at least have to replace my 240z stub axles to the 280z to get 27 splines... I also know that my stock 240 half-shafts are my first weakest link. So I need to upgrade to CV's as quickly as possible, however the 280zxt cv's won't support my 550+ hp goals and with the guy from wolf creek dying... not sure I can get those cv's anymore.. or if they can even stand up to 550+ hp/tq. Then there is Troy Ermish cv's but what are they rated for? Can I get away with a longnose R200 + Troy Ermish cv's with 550+ hp/tq? If not then I really should plan to get the Q45 or the R230. If I have to get the Q45/R230 can I have my late R180 mustache bar re-drilled? or do I need the R200 bar to get re-drilled? Right now I'm thinking Q45 if it can support my hp/tq goals with the Arizona Z mustache bar and dog bones.. or just dog bones and re-drill my mustache bar. I have around 2600 coming to me soon.. so trying to plan around that and still have some money left to do a few other misc things. Q45 Diff shouldn't be to hard to find at a junk yard in DFW as well as 4x axles. the R230 on the other hand... I have not seen many z's at any junk yards... I will be mixing and matching between T3 and AZ parts. 280z stub axles (found on ebay) 160 T3 front diff mount 150 T3 axle service 480 (is there an alternative to this? it's quite expensive. I can build my own if I can buy the actual axles themselves... also do these come with endstops?) AZ mustache bar 239 AZ dog bones 329 chequeredflag R230 companion flange 490 (is there an alternative to this? it's quite expensive) Q45/R230 (need to find at junkyard) Q45 cv x4 (need to find at junkyard) Q45 driveshaft for modifying my ls1 driveshaft (need to find at junkyard)

Definitely not worried about numbers and my car is cable driven not DBW. I'm hoping the guy that is their tuner is aware of all the tricks needed to enhance the engine. But will bring up the IAF thing and see what he thinks.

So it's offical! Next monday I have a scheduled appointment with SNL performance to get a dyno tune and hopefully clean up some of my issues.

At some point probably around 550 either cam/heads or super charger. I think I like the idea of raw power tho.. so probably good cam/heads. With that said, I think the R230 is my best solution. There was a guy on ebay selling a used one for 125 but unknown miles and missing the input/output shafts. Not sure I wanna buy a R230 with unknown condition. Rest of them look to go for around 350 online. Hell the most expensive part of a R230 swap isn't the actual diff... it's the damn companion flanges/stub axles!!! chromoly 39 spline version is 830 + 540 for the flange. Then I have to somehow still source the cv's which shouldn't be too hard finding 4x 300zx cv's Last night I got my 24in louvered glass pack arrive and cut out a straight section of my exhaust and added it in. Definitely removed a good chunk of the drone and loudness that was just too much. She's still has a mean growl but definitely not ear shattering. I have an appointment in the next hour to swap my front windshield and my rear hatch glass weatherstrip. Then time to make an appointment to get a dyno tune!

wow! so far only a year on mine!

Tell me about it... mines running, but nickel and diming me here and there. New weatherstripping, new head unit, speakers, carpet, front windshield.... Eventually tho she'll be gorgeous.. just for now.. she's functional and fast.

4.5's is what I'm using. Also order them from the guy on our forums as you get a pretty hefty discount. I believe his name is ihiryu ?

I saw that post about the 8.8 IRS frankenstein that was put together. Honestly, I like the idea of a R230 out of a Q45 or the 300ZXTT. Tho I think people have discovered that it's not really a R230? that it's a shortnose R200?

Honestly I was at some point thinking of doing a R230 with CV's so I guess I really need to log everything I need to buy and get that as my next major buy. Saved up enough for a tune and adding a resonator to my exhaust. Hopefully that'll calm her down. Will also be getting new weatherstripping and new from windshield.. old one is pitted beyond crazy and has a pretty big crack in the driver side. Also took some pictures of her fuel cell and the crap spray paint. http://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd

ROFL

I'm kinda wondering about the whole diff honestly.. because if I was an open diff.. shouldn't I get one wheel burnouts a lot? Yet when my tires spin.. both are because my back end slides out a bit. In fact now that I think of it, every time my tires have spun, my back end stepped out a bit, which should indicate that both tires are spinning? The PO already welded the front diff mount to be solid. So makes me wonder if he did also welded up the diff?

However I'm on the stock R180 with halfshafts.. do you think it'll hold up to the ls1 vs an r200?

So far I have not experienced any wheel hop from the rear end. Tires just break loose and spin... however my tires are horribly balanced and need to get re balanced.

More than likely won't ever see a drag strip. I don't think I'll ever be doing clutch drops. However.. a few wot's in first/second for wheel spin might occur...

I just ordered a new resonator for the exhaust as a single straight through muffler is just not enough... way to damn loud. Once that gets installed, I'll take it to texasspeed and have them dynotune it. I'm just worried that with the extra HP, I'll hurt my half-shafts faster... ugh need to get CV's quickly! anyone know of a cheaper way to get CV's than with ermish-racing's cv's? That's about 850... I just need something that I know will hold up with a stock ls1 for now. MM is no longer so no clue how to get adapters to build my own.

I think I'd rather have a dyno tune... At least then I know my fuel map will be correct for what I'm running. Plus I won't be without my car for a week.