CableSrv

Don't think I can let my car be down that long. Since I'm using it as my daily for work.

how does a mail order tune work? do you mail in your pcm and he updates it and then mails it back?

I don't have the rear o2 sensors. Those were deleted from the pcm when I had the harness made. Chevythunder gave me a stock tune, minus vats, and all the egr stuff.

That's what everyone seems to be pointing too. So looks like saving up to get a tune done.

I went with 4.5in for the 2 main ones, however they still require the old bezel of the old gauges. Not sure if the 5.5 ones would fit without that? I simply just took the 3 screws out of the old black scoops and removed the old gauge and then used tubing to press fit the gauges in.

Phantom using my bluetooth obdII reader, it shows that it's running in closed loop mode which should be normal o2 sensors for fuel map. I only kept the front 2 o2 sensors so, I can see how removing the egr and cats could cause some fuel readings to be off... just didn't expect it to be this bad. I know, just wasn't expecting that as a requirement to getting this installed and running. I always attributed it to a "get more hp thing" rather than help fix fuel efficiency issue. Considering when I get this done, I'll probably end up gaining some HP/TQ which as you put it, will eventually cause my u-joints to shatter. At some point in my future, I do plan to do cv's and a R200 with lsd.

I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road.

I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road.

I went with speedhut's gauges for speedo and tach. Honestly love them and they cost about as much as the damn cableX cost. As for the others? You generally don't need a clock because aftermarket radios have them... or voltage/amps. Simple oil pressure and water temp and fuel level is all that is really needed. However I have a bluetooth obd2 reader so that I can see what my voltage is if I ever need to while on the road.

ugh.. that's like another 500 bucks to spend

Even to a stock engine? I mean really the only mods to the car are 3in exhaust and cold air intake from JTR. I just assumed that a stock tune shouldn't be this bad.

so far so good, but it could be because I'm using 195 tires that are easy to burn out rather than put strain on the rear end.

Checked with my obdII bluetooth sensor and still only running that one fault code for crank sensor relearn. Other than that everything looks normal. It shows it is running in close loop mode using O2 sensors for fuel trim. O2's are running anywhere from .1v to .8v

I'm still on the stock R180 that came with the car. Plugs don't looked fouled at all. Engine temps are normal at around 210F. One of my plug wires seemed a little loose but doesn't seem to change how the engine sounds. Either way I pushed it further in to make sure it was a solid connection. Exhaust still smells super rich Sadly I don't have the money currently to do a full on tune.

Phantom do you consider 17 mile trips short? That's my distance from home to work. I don't drive it hard at all! Only maybe once or twice a week do I actually stomp on it. This is the pcm that chevy thunder gave me with the newer style harness. I think it's a 99 pcm? I'll check my plugs tonight to see if they look fouled at all.

at about 50mph I'm cruising at maybe 1k rpms in 6th. I try to keep my shifts under 2.5k rpms and only go above that on slightly spirited driving.

So been driving her for a bit and there seems to be a rather big issue. I'm getting maybe 9-10mpg on this engine. The only code being thrown last I checked was the crank relearn code since I put a 99+ pcm on a 98 engine. LS1Tech said this code would not put the engine in limp mode... but why am I getting such shitty mpg ?

YAY!!! Congrats on a running ls1!!

TomoHawk, are you talking the inner seal to the hatch or the outer seal? I need both REALLY BADLY! Texas just got a crazy amount of rain and she's leaking

On my 5.7 ls1 it does seems like it's richer than normal. I've had a professional harness made so not sure if that could be it. She still runs REALLY strong, just seems like she's just a tad rich. Might be because I've upgraded my exhaust to 3in and have JTR's cold air intake? I might just need to get my pcm tuned on a dyno.. but that's expensive.

Man it's been awhile since I've done an update!!! So did a rattle can paint job, installed new carpet, and got a stereo + amp being installed this weekend. I will probably take some pictures/videos of everything I've done so far and post them up soon.

They are not needed. Either cap them off or fully remove them. The ls1 alternator is internally regulated and won't need to use the datsun's regulator. So that big box that plugs into the alternator can go away as well as all that wiring.

The kit should have a few wires that need power.. and a few wires that get grounded. Any engine harness cable that needed power, I added to my starters + terminal post. Your body harness uses the white/red for main power which should come from the starter of the old engine. The white/red from the alternator is your old charge cable. if your new harness has a new charge cable then you can effectively remove the white/red from the alternator. Otherwise keep using it. the black/yellow is your starter solenoid wire. it's what tells the starter to actually turn the engine over. starter + terminal should have a cable going to the battery, the alternator, and a ignition 12v wire starter solenoid terminal should have a black/yellow wire connected to it alternator should have a engine harness single wire clip that plugs in, and a charge cable that goes to the battery + I suggest you make a few extra grounds while you are at it. I grounded the heads, alternator, and block. You can ignore or cap off all the old coil/distributor wiring as it is no longer needed.

Woot! When I got my chevythunder harness I was totally excited!! so close to being able to start her up! HURRY UP CAN START HER!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_um6es6c0Vw They look awesome!