G-Tech

Im sorry,I dont even know what car it was for.i will remember to make a note of that when I have to replace it some day... some of the auto stores are nice enuff to just let you go in the back and look at their selection of hoses.just take measurements of what you need. if you buy one and it doesn't work just return it and try another. that's what I had to do.i know each end was too long and i just shortened it.

sorry for the extra post here but the pic of my steering shaft shows that I drilled and tapped threw it to put a screw threw it then what the picture doesn't show is that it allowed me to cut that ear off so that I had more clearance. there is pics of 2 different options for headers, both of which still had to be modified before they would fit. I also made a solid aluminum spacer to get rid of the rubber piece on the shaft. I made it smaller diameter than the rubber piece for more spacing.

an iron block might make it a little nose heavy but the power of these swaps are so much fun over the 6cyl. my alum block makes my car 2918lb and almost 50/50 weight, I actually have 20lbs more on the rear of the car. my bell housing for the t56 hangs an inch lower than my pan so you could go a little lower if your modifying a oil pan. so if you are on a budget you could try modifying a pan, the canton one just fit perfectly and has baffles for oil slushing around. the biggest issue will b headers and making the engine sit as low and as close the fire wall as possible. the rear ends are pretty dependable but I have a quaife rear in the r200, I would definatly use cv joint out of a 280zxt or 300zxt is even stronger. and the rear springs are really soft for the power you will have. im up to 420lb springs in the rear and 250lb in the front and it has a real good balance. I was snapping stub axles cause I was having wheel hop issues due to either the toe in when it squats or rebounding from bottoming out the struts. but once I got the car to not squat so bad the wheel hop seemed better. I also got 300m stub axles from modern motorsports. lots of fun it is having it all done though, the car really rips. here are some pics of things like steering shaft mods and stainless 1x3 frame ties

And you if u use a pan with a deeper rear sump it hangs below the bottom of the car so that's not too good either. You can go a little wider with the rear sump but that's it. It really was the perfect fit.nothing for this swap was budget friendly but that's what happens when nothing is made for the s130 chassis

It's a canton 13-270a. It's like $500 bucks but it was the best one that allows the motor to sit really low. It works awesome. You can't have a stroker motor cause the front sump is so shallow.anything else I can help with just ask...do you have a 280zx your doing the swap on? 13-270A - GM LS1 5 1/4” DEEP AL F-BODY RACE BAFFLED PAN (13-270A)

the 280zx doesn't seem to get any attention from parts manufactures when it comes to LS swaps. it took a lot of work to get mine done and I know who ever else has it done had to do the same. im just curious to see how many are out there and id love to see the different things people have done to get past certain road blocks such as mounts and headers. I know I had a lot of issues with mounts and oil pans and especially headers. if I can help with any issues I am more than happy to share my build. I modified JTR motor and trans mounts for a SBC to work with my LS. I used a stupid expensive oil pan from canton to get the motor low enuff. it has a very shallow front sump to clear the pwr steering rack. headers I originally used a manifold on driver side and block hugger on pass. side. now I have Billy Boat shorty headers for a c5 that I still had to modify. again, please post yours. how many of us are there?

I really hope this post can inspire some 280zx owners to do the swap. there isn't many that have completed this swap. the car is very dependable. 2918lbs. 50/50 weight. runs 11.9 @116mph in the 1/4 mile. and I beat on her all the time. awesome swap to do. im very willing to help with any questions.

:1983 280zx :L33 5.3 aluminum block bored to 5.7, ls2 dart heads, forged piston/rods,ls6 intake 406whp :RPM t56 trans rated for 750hp :R200 w/ 3:54 gears and quaife internals :modified JTR mounts for SBC to work with the Ls motor :special Canton oil pan to get the motor low enuff :headers are the biggest problem, I modified Billy boat c5 shorty headers :made my own dual 2 1/2 to single 3 1/2, all stainless, had to use oval pipe to get over sub frame :my grandfather purchased the car in 1984, then my dad had it and I bought it from him in 2004 started with a SBC swap in 2008 but it made the car nose heavy and I still felt it was out dated. in 2010 the Ls swap was done.im jealous of all the stuff the older Z's have for Ls swaps, zx's have nothing : A friend and I fully restored the body and painted the car from blue to black :Arizona z car brakes :techno toys front shortened coilovers :custom made 420lb rear springs (very needed to reduce squat) :whitehead performance 300m 39 spline stub axles :300zxt cv-joints :Boze custom made rims 17x7 and 17x8 :shaved side markers, antenna, side trim, rear wiper, custom taillights :aeromotive fuel system, modified gas tank to be gravity feed. : on and on and on, ill just stop there everything done by myself and help from friends and family. many,many long nights and dedicated hours. And a wife that supports me taking the time to do it. BUILT NOT BOUGHT!!!

so bottom line is the stiffer springs didn't allow it to squat as much. I have not had wheel hop issues since I did the stiffer springs.

I have a 83zx with a ls1 in it with 400whp. I was having the same problem with the wheel hop which was causing me to snap stub axles. a guy explained to me as the car squats it toes in causing it to lose traction, as the suspension unloads it gets grip again causing it to squat and repeat the vicious cycle. I also feel it was because I was bottoming out the struts which cause the rear to bounce back up...I have poly bushings, quife rear diff, whithead performance 300m stub axles (which took 8 months to get), with 300zxt half shafts and I have had custom springs made a couple times and now im up to 420lb springs. the car still rides pretty good and it only squats a lil bit. it runs consistent 11.9@116mph with 1.75 60FT times. the car hooks so good with 235 wide tires. I hope this helps. I am curious exactly what you did to move the rear subframe back. I have been wanting to do that for years.

i just tried that exact pan. it didnt work.it makes the motor sit too high,and the bottom of the pan sits lower than the bottom of the car. the front of the pan needs to be thinner and there is plenty room for a longer sump. unfortunatly the one that worked great was a canton 13-270a($450 bucks). expensive but it worked awsome. glad to see im not the only one atempting this swap. mine will be done by may. ill post pics when i figure out how too.

im putting a ls6 in my 280zx with a t56 trans. i am wondering if i can use the stock master cylinder for the t56? if not, what are the other options? i know people have used tilton masters i just dont know what one exactly. thank you for any help i can get