G-Tech

i have had experience with them. i ordered stub axles that were supposed to be 4-6 weeks, ended up being over 6 months. i did end up getting them. couldn't always get ahold of them but they were "ok" to deal with on the phone. they have they're stub axles made from someone else and i guess that manufacturer was the reason for the delay i was told.....definitely not the quickest people but i did get my parts and have been happy with them. that was my experience.

looking for a good set of weather stripping for a 280zx t-top car. i really need the pieces that mount to the car and go all the way up and around the t-top. i wouldnt mind also if someone has the weather stripping that goes on the doors. please let me know if you have or know where to get something. i know of a few places that have them for the older z's but the 280zx ( s130) is not as common. thank you

zcar is definatly the better place for stock cars. you wont get your money out of it if you mod it plus you wont wanna sell when you just put alot of work in it....280zx turbo"s are getting harder to find in original shape. if you can aford to be patient you"ll find the right buyer

ive ran hooker cast manifolds on mine. work great til about 400hp. they were pretty heavy compared to a tube header. as far as what else you can fit depends on what model your running? i have a 280zx (s130). if thats what you have i can help but im guessing your not. i know for all the older Z's there are a few options. there is even long tube headers if money is not a concern.

They look like they would work. I thought what I did with the SBC mounts and the LS adapter plates made perfect sense in theory but it didnt. It worked but took more work than I thought it would...I said before I like dirty dingo stuff. I bet those would work well

i never actually busted a cv-joint. when i did the upgrade for the stub axles i just made the switch to the 300zxt cv's. i run the quaife rear diff for 5 yrs now. i think ive talked to you about wheel hope before. its a pain with the s130's. ive had an Ls in for a few years now. runs 11.9 @118. 1.85 60ft. 13.2 is pretty good for the 6cyl. mine ran 16.7 with the 6 in it. Any way, im thinkin $100 ($75 plus $25 shipping). i also have one that needs to be re-booted that ill sell for $75 total instead if that helps. my car used to squat so much that the boot would catch on the bottom of the car and tear. just so we are clear, they are an 83 280zxt cv-joint. i forget which side is longer so just let me know if you need the longer or shorter

i used jtr small block chevy mount kit and Ls to sbc adapter plates. i did some modifications to them that i talked about on the previous page of this thread, pictures too. subhuman had another idea that probably worked that he also talked about. there is nothing that will just straight up bolt in. for the tranny cross member i also used jtr for a 5-speed trans.and had to make an extension plate for the extra length of the t-56. good luck, and dont rush it. there is alot of lil obstacles you will just have to be creative with. let me know when you get stuck on the next thing.

ive got a few sets. went threw the same problem with stub axles. im running 300zxt cv joints now. i dont know how this works as far as communicating on the web. i have paypal. i have a 83 zx that i need some black interior pieces (center console,door panels). it has a Ls in it so i dont need any drivetrain parts, dont know what else you got? message me and we can talk. always willing to help

thank you but not really what this thread is for...tryin to help with info for 280zx (s130) Ls swaps. a 280z is a different animal..thank you for the thought though.

what is the link for "bigwillie67"???? i saw 280z stuff. didnt see any zx stuff

Definitely the farthest I've seen someone take an s-130...Good job!!!! I don't have much to say. I have the same clutch and I love it, soft pedal but grabs firm. Chatters just a lil crushing slow threw a car show but not too badMaybe we have talked about it but I did get a willwood clutch master cylinder that helped alot. I had to make an adapter plate for the bolt holes to line up but it was pretty straight forward....Keep it up

if you dont want to get in too deep and your car is an automatic, i would agree a R200 will do you just fine. if its a stick shift you"ll want to step it up a lil from there and mayb address the half shafts and stub axles.

i really like the original idea of this thread. might try that out. i did the s14 coilover swap. i had k-sport coilovers. the problem i had with that was the 240sx has alot less travel. i have a LS motor in mine so it likes to squat. i was bottoming out the coilovers hard. only got about half of the original travel...if your running a stiff setup or not alot of power they will work fine but you wont get too low of ride hieght with them. ive since had 420Lb. springs custom made and had them made with a 2in drop. squats just the right amount now. here is how bad it was when i just had some eibach springs.

wow!!! that sucks. they were good for those oem parts.

that is a good friend for sure. hope you get it all back to new again. do you know what caused the brakes to fail?

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. I knew something was interchangeable. Hoping I could help, guess not this time

yeah I did the install myself, the lifetime warranty is if a professional shop does it. I would've paid the money if I slowed down and read the fine print. thank you though. I know they r pretty bulletproof, just wondering if anyone has found the limits of one.

I have 27 spline stub and companion flanges for a 280zxt and r-200. you need just the outers? I think they r interchangeable from a s30 and s130

looking good!!! kinda jealous even. I went pretty far when I restored mine but a rotisserie I did not do. When I got rid of the spare tire the bottom of the tray was rotted so I had to cut some out ,then I just welded in a flat piece of 3/16 or 1/4 to have a flat surface. just secured a plastic batt box in after that. Keep plugging away, it seems like it never ends but one day the list will finally get smaller. if you do it right the first time (like your doing) you"ll have a brand new 280zx when your done and wont have much to do but drive the hell out of it and maintain it. awesome to see another s130 getting the full treatment. keep us posted on progress and ask any questions.

Im wondering who else has a Quaife rear diff. and how has it been for you, has anyone found the limits of one? I've had a quaife rear diff. for 5 years now. It's in a 280zx with LS swap with a R-200 and 3.54 gears. Started with a small block Chevy and 300whp, now has a LS motor at 400whp and has a 6speed stick shift which I know is harder than an auto.also has 300zxt CV joints and 300m 39spline Stub axles. I've broken stock Stub axles but the rear diff has been awsome for me.Just wondering how long it might hold up?...

Here are mine. I like 17's cause I can still have a side wall on the tires. I had Honda wheels with adapters until I took a wheel off one time and found that I had broke a rear stud and didn't even know it, leaving me with 3 studs which made me feel very unsafe. So I spent the money on custom Boze wheels that are worth every penny. 17x7 and 17x8,225/45 and 235/45, 0-offset on both.

it is nice having a s30 chase Ryan Merrill, you have lots of options. that wouldn't work in a s130 chassis.it take some serious notching of the pan for the power steering rack, no way the engine would be low enuff, and it limits what headers you can use and that's already a problem with a s130. I sure didn't want to spend the money that I did on an oil pan but sure glad I did now that its done.

sounds like you have some educated advice subhuman. think i will take it too....as far as what nismoluv asked, ive seen some do the universal joint done, it would help to get the header to exit towards the fire wall. but the passenger side i didn't have room for it to exit towards the fire wall with the starter and brake lines in the way, so you would still have to run 2 different headers. also the steering shaft is so short as it is, i didn't feel safe having a universal joint. right now i have billy boat "stepped" shorties for a c5. the primaries are 1 5/8 which my tuner said it would be better with 1 3/4 but i couldn't fit them. i bought every shorty header out there and just returned them as i determined they wouldn't fit. i still had to mod the ones i have by re making the primary closest to the fire wall (which u can see in the pic)and denting in the back side by the collector a lil bit.. here are a bunch of pics. I drilled and tapped threw the shaft so I could cut that ear of for room and I also got rid of the rubber joint so that I could put a smaller diameter solid mount to get room. the manifold I had originally I cut out a patch and had a plate welded in from the back side to get room for the shaft

When I cleaned up the wire harness I just cut the wires that I did't need right at the computer. still running all the Datsun stuff off the old computer and have a PSI harness and Camaro computer for the engine. She even still talks to me. So I would definitely suggest just leaving the Datsun harness for whatever you can and just running the motor off a separate harness.