mobythevan

You right about your luck, I just went to spicer to look at the dimensions of the 2-2-1819 part I bought. I am at work so I can't measure anything. Both parts that would work with 1310 u-joint and R200 LSD flange, 2-2-1819 and 2-2-1899 are not in the dimension chart anymore. So I did a search on the part number and they both come up as obsolete. I am glad I ordered mine several months back. Those parts were in that chart a couple months ago, I know because I measured all dimensions on the R200 LSD flange and ordered the part that matched all of them from spicer's chart. The 2-2-1819 part matched all of the following dimensions: Bolt diameter bolt pattern diameter flange overall diameter pilot diameter You could make the same measurements and then go to your local diff shop and ask them if they have a spicer catalog where you can look up the dimensions of 1310 series flanges. And then just hope you can still order the part or cross reference it to a Neapco flange. No guesswork if you measure everything like I did. BTW, I already learned there are not many straight forward answers. I read on different websites that R180 halfshafts and R200 halfshafts (both u-joint) are different. The websites were very sure that you can't use R180 halfshafts with R200. Well, in my case they are the same. I only learned that after I went to the junkyard and paid $95 for a set of 1977 R200 halfshafts and then took them home to see that they are identical to the 1972 R180 halfshafts I already have. Oh well, now I have an extra set when I start breaking u-joints.

I hate to gloat, but I love having a wood stove in the garage. It was about 19 degress this morning. Tonight I will fire up the stove and in about 30 minutes it will be 70degrees. And my wife thought I was crazy installing a stove in the garage, crazy like a fox! It is a detached garage though. I remember laying under my 63 chevy-II a few years ago in the middle of winter, outside on the concrete while it was snowing, trying to remove the automatic transmission. Tranny fluid was running into my coveralls and down my arm. Great memory. That memory alone inspired me to spend to money to insulate and heat my garage.

I have just heard to many stories about pinion flange swaps. Since I want to use the Ron Tyler type mount, and spicer had a compatible flange to get me to a 1310 u-joint it was a no brainer. I am still replacing rusted car, so it will be quite some time before these parts get tested out. But I did test fit the flange, and had measured everything with calipers.

All I know is that I told the shop to order Spicer part #2-2-1819 and I got the correct flange. I never mentioned Neapco or an N part number. Good luck.

Yeah, maybe I am a little dense, but is neapco and spicer the same company. Is there any difference between Spicer 2-2-1819 Neapco 2-2-1819 also, what is the difference between 2-2-1819 2-2-1899 and 2-2-899 ?? are they all the same. I can't find the link back to the spicer chart with all of the info. I guess for some reason i thought Neapco parts and Spicer parts were different. My bad

That is a DANA/SPICER PART 2-2-1819

Yes, the 2-2-1819 part fits the 300ZX pinion flange and accepts a 1310 u-joint. Before I ordered the part I used calipers to measure the pilot diameter, bolt hole size, bolt spacing, etc. Then matched all of these numbers to a suitable spicer flange. At this point I don't see any reason that it won't work, but since i haven't driven the car with it, I would hate to lead anyone down the wrong path. I think it was about $50 for the part. I would also like to hear from anyone that has used this part with the 300ZX LSD diff, just for confirmation.

Earlier this year I was able to get two Hobart Handler 135 units from weiler welding online for $400 each shipped. One was for my uncle. They were really good people to deal with. Prices have probably went up since then. Weiler Welding

I'll have to check tonight when I get home. I have all of the measurements in my notebook in the garage. I am sure it was ~20" though.

ok, cool. Things are going very good so far. I figure four months of work on the rust. I don't have any other projects to distract from this so we'll see. got to replace floor pans, rockers, and rear quarters. I think i am going to do all of the passenger side first, then do the driver. that way the driver side frame will help stiffen the chassis while I have the floor pans out and the rockers out. think i will use the 1x3 inch tubing to stiffen the rockers as i have seen others do.

This weekend I made all of the measurements and cut out the passenger engine frame rail. My suspicions were confirmed when I measured and found that if I use 2.5" tubing and align it with the fender, then the crossmember bolt holes are right at the outside of the tubing. You could fix this by moving the frame rail outward, but then it would portrude into the wheel well. To fix the problem I extended the width of the frame rail at the crossmember location and then built in the pocket so the bolts will still drop in. Supposing I would have just put a pocket in the 2.5" tubing, the bolt holes would have ended up with no steel on the outside to support the bolt. All of this was based on stock locations. My measurement showed that the width of the stock frame rail was ~3" including the lip in the fender well. The outside edge of the bolt hole for the crossmember was then ~.5" back toward the engine. Putting the edge of the bolt hole at the edge of the 2.5" tubing. You can see what I did at engine frame rail Does this sound right? I double checked ten times, but maybe I missed something.

On your web site, under rear quarters, the ZCalQL and ZCalQR and identical to what I got.

OK, I see what the deal is. The fenders and rear quarters I got are the same as "the california Z" kit that showcars bodyparts sells. So anybody have this kit on their car?

You have to get stub axles from an R200 to go into the LSD diff, then you can bolt up the u-joint halfshafts. BTW, those stub axles are different lengths.

I put a quick picture of the stack of fenders on my website. I didn't have time last night to spread them out and take pictures. BTW, does anyone have pictures of their cars with these IMSA type bodykits. I saw one car in the members section but that was it. I am just curious to see air dam and tire types with these flares.

Thanks for the pep talk. I guess I'll attempt to enter the ranks of z-nuts who spend too much of their lives trying to save a rusted shell. I did forget one necessity in the garage, a little refrigerator. It will be cold this winter if I have to walk to the house to get a beer. And if it gets too bad oops, one too many

I went to the junk yard today to get a couple halfshafts and I remembered the guy telling me back in Feb that he had some fender flares. So I asked what they were, IMSA. Turns out he has two complete sets for the rear and three front fenders. I figure he'll want a bunch so he says he will take $100 for a set of four or $150 and take them all. Needless to say, I took them all. Only had my camry, so we had to get creative to pack them in. That just cut a bunch off the price of my swap, since I had planned to buy fiberglass front fenders and rear flares.

Yeah, I just hate to see the car go to waste. I look at this one as the learning vehicle for welding and bodywork. So I am at least going to start hacking on it. It is time intensive not money intensive, so if I reach the threshold of "ok, thats all the learning I can stand" and the car is not finished then.....

ok, got my web page updated with pics of the rust. I know my web page format sucks, let me know what you think from the pics. Is this the typical stuff you guys have been dealing with? Thanks

That is the exact helmet I ended up buying. I love it, works great. The first project i used this helmet on was a stand for my wood stove. It is great to be able to use both hands and know where I am starting the weld. I paid $169 shipped for mine, it was new. Good deal on yours, I know you'll like it.

what about unlimited products. they list two cowl induction hoods, pin on types? www.up22.com Anyone dealt with them lately?

On my 72 240z the worst of the rust seems to be where the body had been strengthened, such as right above the engine cross member bolts. Also where the engine frame and the floor frame meet at the firewall. These spots that appear to have double thickness material have holes over an inch in diameter rusted right through. Of course this just let the water splash from the tires and fill up the frame tubes, lovely. I'll get some pictures of this put up in the next couple days. I'm curious to start removing paint/coatings to see how bad the rust is on the rest of the car.

Tim, I was looking back at an old post when I said I was getting ready to replace my frame rails. That was back in Feb. You said you were at a similar point on your buildup. Well, now 8 months later you are starting your engine and I have not done a thing Well, I moved this summer and had to do a bunch of things to the new house. I have accumulated a bunch of tools, $1500 worth (don't tell my wife). At the new place I have a 24x30 detached garage. I just finished insulating it and installed a wood burning stove. This weekend I am finally going to start cutting out those old frame rails. I am hoping by next spring to be firing off my engine, but I am going to need about $3500 to build it. So we'll see if i can save up that much money by then. Take bets and see if another 8 months go by and I put up a post saying I am just starting to replace my frame rails

I bought the harbor freight compressor mentioned. I am very happy with it. It is much quieter than I expected. I wired my garage this year so the 220V was no problem. I am glad I did not get anything smaller, but I use it all the time.

I don't have the answer to your question, but have one of my own. I have a Weiand xcellerator single plane intake. I bought it before Holley took over several years ago. I would like to build the z engine with a single plane but I am not sure if I should buy a new one. Only save ~$150 by using the old intake. This one had an RPM range of 2500-6500 IIRC. I would like to run a set of AFR 195cc heads, 9.5:1 comp and the magnum 292H cam. The cam has the same RPM range. Think there are any advantages to other single plane intakes?? The runners seem to be more straight on this intake than the victor jr. I notice the victor jr has range starting at 3800. Thats a little high for what I intend. 2500 willl work good.