mobythevan

A new MSII plus cable from DIY is about $480 so that seems like a decent deal if it doesn't get pushed up too far.

just razzin you, I think I read the posts out of order

You can drive it all the way to Colorado then give it to me, we don't have emissions checks. :mrgreen:

huh?

I am using the tach circuit in the first post to drive the tach in my 86 rx7. I know that doesn't help much for the datsun tach, but one thing to note is that I don't quite get the correct reading. At 2500rpm in megatune my tach reads like 2800rpm. I think it is noise so I am going to try adding a capacitor to the line. Just in case you guys see results like this.

I remember being nervous about all of it. I would recommend reading as much as you can stand and then dive in. One thing for sure, you will learn a ton from using MS. Just be careful with the ebay auctions, make sure it was built by a reputable person.

If you type in 20 degrees fixed angle do you see that show up? Can you email me your msq file? I have been on vacation for the last week. We should be able to figure this out, especially since you are close to me.

If you cannot afford to buy a wideband then you can search around on the web a little bit to see how to tune with the narrowband. I tried to do it, but it didn't work well for me. I was using a one wire NB though with no heater. I would think you could tune most all of your table to stoich 14.7 with the narrowband, then richen up around idle, richen up in the powerband, etc. But I wouldn't run any boost if I was only tuning with a NB, that is just me. Lots of people do it and lots of people replace pistons and headgaskets.

The stim board connects directly to MS in place of the relay board. It provides power and stimulus for all the inputs so you can use megatune to see if everything functions correctly.

I know what you mean. I have spent months to find some problems, so I figure anything that is found in less than a week is an easy fix

You could probably start with someone elses accell settings from the map sharing sticky (if any are in there for MSII). I always tune the accell enrichment by hand/feel. Add a little and test, add a little more and test. I am not sure if that is the right way to do it.

good find and thanks for the update.

That jump in pulsewidth is due to accelleration enrichment. If you look at the enginebit code in log it is 17 during the high pulsewidth, 17 tells you that accelleration enrichment is on. You must have the accell values really high. I believe the tuning guide says to turn off accell enrichment while tuning the VE tables. Get them tuned first, then go back and set up accell enrichments.

Crack it open and follow the directions in the assembly guide to check the power circuit. You will have to do this if you assemble a MS yourself anyway. You can get a cheap $3 digital multimeter at harbor freight.

Before the tach signal comes into play you should hear the fuel pump run at initial power up of the MS(for couple seconds). Do any of the three LEDs light up? Does megatune connect to the MS? You may have to measure for 12 volts on the power regulator of the MS board to make sure it is getting that far.

good one, at least you found it quickly.

Can you take a data log of it for us to look at?

The short answer is NO. MS will only compensate up to the authority limit you have set in your EGO settings. You set up iginition events per correction, step size and authority. If it needs to correct 80% to meet the AFR you put in the table and your authority is only 50% then it will never make it.

Remember that your fuel pressure in the rail is independent of megasquirt. That pressure is based on the fuel subsystem (pump, fpr, clogged filter, etc). Increasing fuel in megasquirt only changes the time the injectors are turned on/off. What is the history of the pump and fpr? Are they both stock? The fuel pressure in the rail should be higher when you unplug the vacuum line to the FPR (same situation as turning the key on so the pump runs, but not starting the engine). When the engine is started and the vacuum line is connected to the FPR then the pressure should drop. If this is a stock pump and stock FPR then follow the directions in the manual for checking fuel pressure.

NO, don't do anything with your FIDLE wire, it will not be used. Just connect the AAR so that it gets voltage when the car is started. It will heat up on its own from the coolant that flows throught it, plus the internal electric heater. This will give you more airflow while the engine is coming up to temp, exactly what you want. Then just tune you warmup enrichment table in megatune. That is all, it is a nice simple solution. I used it on my car and it worked very well. Don't confuse after start enrichment with warmup enrichment. After start if just for the few seconds when you first fire a completely cold engine. The pistons immediately heat up and then ASE decays away in a few seconds, but warmup continues to provide more fuel up to around 160 degrees.

An update to the LS1 megasquirt notes was that the .01uf cap needs to be installed directly on pin 11 of the processor (to gnd). The tach input pin (14) already has a .01uf cap on it from the original circuit.

In that case you can use a GM coolant temp sensor and locate it in the thermostat housing, re-tap one of the old sensor threaded holes that is there to 3/8 NPT.

That is a nice looking setup, very cool

cut a hole in the airdam to fix cooling with the big FMIC blocking the original flow. Mocking up location for the odyssey battery. Couple pics of the 8.8 sitting on the ground. I got my oil drain line installed on the turbo. I finished all the hot pipes last week and went to install them last night but realized didn't have a T6 turbine inlet gasket. I put that on order. Last things to fire up: 1. Install plug wires 2. Connect fuel lines to rail/FPR 3. Install battery tray 4. wire dropping resistors for injectors 5. connect wideband to megasquirt I have not installed the wastegate on my hot piping yet, but I am going to fire it up and test a few things first. Then I'll get the WG installed. There is no danger of accidentally building too much boost with this setup during testing. Here you can see how the flex joints are installed for each side of the engine. The pssgr pipe goes low under the pulley, the driver side goes up and then down the front of the engine. Both sides use the same type of stock stainless manifold, I bought two sets to get two matching pieces. I don't remember mandrel pipe loosing much flow at all on a 180 bend like you see in the pictures. I am waiting on the T6 gasket and then I'll snap a couple pictures of how the pipes route inside the engine bay.

Trying to get the car running, it is so close I can taste the exhaust fumes. Other than that, BBQ and a few repairs around the place.