mobythevan

"Tony D" with the space

Actually I wasn't thinking it through on the first post. As long as either speed of the pump provides enough flow to build the same pressure in the fuel rail(depending on injector duty cycle at any given spot) then you wouldn't need to do anything special. The only time you would need different VE tables would be if the fuel pressure changes because of the PWM. I bet that won't happen on a stock engine. I would be interested to see if you could run the pump at half speed all the way through WOT and still get enough fuel. You could use a fuel pressure gauge that you could log with megasquirt to see if the pump can keep up with the engine at the lower speed.

Use the second VE table when pump is in hi mode maybe. Are you using this because your injectors are so large that it won't idle with the pump running full voltage? Just curious.

You might try talking to Tony directly to see what else he has to say about the 81 cas.

I thought you could upload it right here on hybridz as an attachment to your post.

Soft/hard rev limit set to 4K, Dwell not set right above 4K, just a couple thoughts. See if you can post the msq file.

The installation sticky has a quoted area from Tony D. that explains what is required to use the 81 CAS.

You should use the TPI distributor and coil setup for now. That is very easy to do and greatly simplifies the setup instead of doing EDIS. I have set up 3 TPI engines using the stock dizzy/8 pin HEI and they seem to run great. However, we don't rev them much over 5K. I notice in your list you have an 8 pin HEI pigtail. If you doing EDIS then you won't need the 8 pin or TPI distributor at all since you will likely be plugging the dizzy hole with just an oil pump shaft and then using an EDIS trigger wheel and coils.

That is the main reason that I still order the MSI v2.2 unassembled kits for about $140. They still do everything I want and work fine for me. I had to add several circuits for the LS1 setup, but if you want to be cheap that is the price to pay.

On my rx7 I ended up with a similiar problem. I ran the charging wire from the alternator which is on the pssgr side over the fuse on the driver side, then back to the battery on the pssgr side. A lot of extra wire. I used two larger wires in parallel, don't remember what gauge they are. A single one of them is as big as the original charging wire on the rx7. I figured that gave me double the capacity of the origianl rx7 which probably only supported a 55-65 amp alternator.

good one. The last time I heard anything from him his LS7 had just blown up because of oiling problems.

I haven't seen any posts from sleeperz for a long time, maybe I just missed them?

One time I would recommend using a relay board is if you plan to do a lot of experimenting. Maybe using an engine or ignition setup that has little support. It gives a nice place to probe all the signals with a scope and make quick changes to the wiring.

I'll be up in Denver tomorrow night to watch the cars. Its too bad about the crash. We talked with Doug Kalitta last year for a couple hours after the races were over, also a really nice guy.

I bet the majority of this problem is caused by the low res injector control in MSI. You also have to re-tune if switch to hi-res MSI code. MSII has much much finer resolution than the MSI hi-res code.

Got the car running again, a cam sensor wire had come loose. I picked up a BOV this morning. Now I can move ahead with a pump gas tune at 8psi to hold me over until I can get the dual walbro setup installed.

I started and drove the car on June 7th, then went on vacation for a week. Got back and drove the car again on June 14th. Then basically let the car sit for a couple weeks while I caught up on other house projects. Went out to start it for my dad so he could check it out, rev'd it twice and it just died. I am not getting a crank signal to MS. I borrowed a scope from my friend today and will try to get it running again this weekend. I have not installed the wastegate yet. It is building boost around 3500-3800 rpm. The car sounds awesome with the Z06 cam. It surges at idle like a blown monster truck engine because the injectors are too big. So a little more work, but it is darn close now. I need a BOV. I alsoneed a second fuel pump so I can move to E85. Hoping to see it make around 700hp at 14psi on E85.

It makes perfect sense that it detonates between 4k and 5k then quits, that says your engine flows the most air in that range. You should find if your VE table is tuned well that it is higher in this area, it is the engines most efficient range. You need to run less timing in this area. So your timing would dip between 4k and 5k then rise again above 5k. After reading the whole post it seems that you drove the car with the carbs in colder temps and now with the EFI in warmer temps. Where is your air filter located with the EFI setup? On the oil comsumption thing I can only say that my friend was using oil like crazy and it turned out to be two things on his engine: 1. The turbo was leaking like crazy into the intake pipe and he had white powder on his plugs. His intake pipes/intercooler had quarts of oil in them down low. 2. All his pistons had broken ring lands, but he showed varying compression results.

I got my single 76mm T6 for $125 new, just keep an eye out and who knows what you'll find. I run a 4" downpipe out of the rx7 engine bay which is much tighter than the 240z was. I run it out on the driver side with the steering and brake booster all in the way. It upgrades to an 88mm wheel in the same housing which is what I plan to do this coming winter along with the ported heads setting in the garage. If that won't run with a supra I don't know what will

Yes, you can hook it up that way without damaging the inejctor drivers. It would work fine to log an engine with megasquirt. Just connect as many pieces/sensors as you want to log. Megasquirt does not need a tach input signal or any particular combination of inputs to work for logging. Just power it on and log with a PC through megatune. Configure the megasquirt for your oxygen sensor (wideband or narrow band).

You installed a 1K resistor like the schematic above shows? You need the resistor or it won't trigger anything.

I just wanted to make sure I understood that fact correctly since I am getting ready to change to E85.

Are you guys sure about the AFR, because I think it is easy to get confused if you are not using lambda values. I was told if your wideband gauge is set up for gasoline it reads 14.7 at stoich (when all oxygen is burned). It also reads 14.7 with E10 when all oxygen is burned even though stoich would be some lower number like you say 14.13. I think if you work in AFR you really have to change your gauge calibration everytime you change fuel if you want all the numbers to make sense in the end. Or you take the standpoint that even though the gauge reads 14.7 with E10, it really means you are running 14.13.

You mean like this(from the megasquirt installation sticky): DIZZY WIRE COLORS!!! if you use the wire at the dizzy, versus after the 4 pin round connector: Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side Red (12v) B/W White (MS trigger) G/B Green (not used) G/Y Black (gnd) Black

Good to hear.