mobythevan

Yes, 1K to vref is fine. But you did not say in that response if you have 12 volt power to the coil positive terminal when the key is cranking and running.

No, it actually does say v(5v). I installed the pullup resistor to 5 volts. You must have something else going on. Remember that you need a 12 volt power source to the coil positive terminal. Then you also need to connect up the coil to the HEI module as shown in the schematics. Also, the HEI module must be grounded through the bolt holes (one hole has the grounding ring). Let us know if it still doesn't work.

Yeah, your right.

Wouldn't an 83 CAS dizzy work if you covered one hole so you would have a 6-1 wheel? I'm not familiar with the 81 cas internals to know if you could do the same thing. Just cover the slot that would line up with #1 TDC, or the one prior to #1. It would be easy to put a small piece of copper tape over the slot. Should hold up great.

Read this thread and see if that is the problem with your set up: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129122

Which mode do you mean? FIDLE kicks off or warmup enrichment kicks off? I could understand a problem with FIDLE and maybe the FIDLE circuit or wiring having problems. I can't make any sense out of warmup enrichment changing anything with the tach signal or power supply to the MS. Did this engine setup run correctly before the megasquirt install? Wierd problem. I would definitely put the megasquirt on a stim board and see if it shows the same problem as you move the coolant temp up and down.

The part number for the IAT is in the mega manual, it also has pictures of the open and closed element sensor so you know what you are looking for.

Well, both cars looked like they were well worth the money. I am glad they sold so the temptation is gone. The 260z was the orange car and it looked very nice in the pictures, but had a leaking head gasket. I hope someone from the group got at least one of them.

The orange car looks like it is sold, did someone on here get it?

I always like to listen to each injector with my cheap stethoscope to make sure they are clicking/working. Also, if you haven't done so yet make sure your timing is correct with a light ( I know it won't matter if your not getting gas, but you'll need to eventually). I'm not sure what else.

Are the injectors high impedance type? How do you have them wired exactly? You should measure 12 volts on an injector connector when your not cranking, just turned on. Its a side note, but are you sure you have fuel pressure in the fuel rail?

You also need 12 volts connected to the positive side of the coil. This 12 volts comes on when the key is turned to on or cranking to power the coil. The schematic in the sticky does not show this, but the written section about coil wiring mentions it.

Yeah when I saw the orange one this morning I was almost ready to call, then I backed off... must focus and get my rx7 drag car finished for this season.

Just noticed these and it is taking all my restraint not to buy them, so somebody else jump on this: (these are not my cars) 260z for $500 http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/539211044.html 240z for $450 obo http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/539156110.html

Pics from the weekend. First, the 8.8 install so far: Got the 8.8 prepped by cutting off all those factory brackets and grinding the welds Then welded the granny's mounts for the lower links/shocks and watts link. Stock rear removed. That was the hard parts as far as I'm concerned with the 8.8 install. I did remove the seats and carpet for the next step which is isntalling the hockey pucks and front lower link mounts. I'll get more pics when the torque arm and caliper brackets are installed. Second, the turbo install so far: Driver side front with wiring removed. Driver front after cutting the sheet metal to allow for the charge pipe and inlet air filter. I know some people won't be willing to do this for a turbo install. Top view, the radiator will move towards the pssgr side a inch for clearance of the upper radiator hose. I will rewire the front of the car so the harness no longer goes below the turbine along the driver frame rail. This picture is weird with the angle. The turbo really sets down even with the radiator support. There is plenty of room for the air filter. One last view through the front.

The 1K resistor is correct. It is a small part intended to go on a computer board.

Got some work done on the car over the holiday break. Got the powerglide and 4k converter installed. Got the z06 550 lift cam installed, new springs, new timing chain. Installed turbo oil drain fittings on both sides of the oil pan for flexibility. I will only use one of course, but wasn't sure which side I would be mounting the turbo when I installed them. I am waiting on the 8.8 granny kit to arrive and I will be installing that next. In the meantime I spent about 4 hours working out the trubo install plan and here is what I came up with(I am really happy with the way it is going to work out): Put the turbo on the drivers side where the battery use to be(move battery inside passenger compartment). The turbine inlet flange is then out where the alternator use to be(move alternator to passenger side). There is a lot of room in this area to merge the hot pipes and mount the wastegate. The charge outlet points straight down and goes through the sheet metal below where the battery use to be. The charge pipe runs in front of the radiator and comes back through by the passenger headlight(great for adding FMIC). This keeps the charge pipe out of the engine compartment to help congestion. Passenger hot pipe goes below the water pump inlet and across below/between the lower pulley and electric fan. Driver hot pipe leaves enough room for the 3-3.5" down pipe from the turbo to exit the drivers side of the engine compartment. Heat shielding for wiring harness and brake booster/MC. New fuel line down passenger side of car to stay away from exhaust. Remove driver headlight and cut sheet metal for cone filter on inlet of turbo. Turbo oil feed from tapped spot above oil filter(OEM oil cooler location). Turbo drain to ½†fitting installed in oil pan 1 3/8†below top of oil pan. Flex coupling between hot pipes. Mount for turbo. This leaves room for radiator hoses, electric fan, alternator mount on pssgr side, downpipe on driver side, etc. Start by using 2.25†dia hot pipe for each side (this is still as large as the truck manifolds). Losing the driver headlight is not a big deal for me since I don't need it at the drag strip, only need one headlight.

Which board version are you planning on for MS1, the v2.2 board or the v3.0 I always use the v2.2 boards, but the v3 has the coil driver so you don't need the HEI module, just fire the coil directly.

Somebody at work sent me this link, thought you guys might enjoy. http://jalopnik.com/cars/detroit-auto-show/2009-chevrolet-corvette-zr1-revealed-officially-334923.php

Could the inside of the chambers and piston be carboned up? Could a seafoam treatment clean it out and help with the pinging?

Ok, finally saved up enough money for the ford 8.8 torque arm solid axle kit from Grannies. Just got off the phone with Grant and the conversion kit with caliper brackets is on order. I have the t-bird 8.8 diff already. The only thing left to order is new axles. Here is the pic from their site:

I don't know??? If the MAP and boost gauge jump around I would still think it is a boost leak, it just happens when the temperature is just right and a coupling opens up? When you did the boost leak test did you pressurize the intake above what boost you run? If you run 14psi, pressure test to say 24psi just to see if something is marginal. I realize it does it at 5psi, but under a certain set of conditions. Just thinking out loud.

That is really neat. It reminds me of a book I just read, "Trustee from the Toolroom" by Nevil Shute.

I run 850cc low impedance injectors on my 2.0 4g63. I don't have problems with idle, but I do have some problems tuning very light cruising, where not much fuel is required. My AFRs tend to bounce around from 11 to 16 in that range and I can't do much to make them steady. The car runs great even though the wideband readout shows that the big injector doesn't allow fine adjustment. In all other aspects they work as any other injector would(idle, wot, partial throttle, etc). I did the suggested trick of smoothing the VE table around idle. I have driven the car nearly 30K miles with the large injectors and never regretted putting them in. Shortly I will be running 1600cc injectors on the 5.3 V8. Hopefully it will idle, but it is more drag built so I don't care to much.

This is a different type of craiglist story, but.. I was looking for some weight equipment and went to this guys place to buy his bar and weights. I show up and he is state patrol. So I tell him that my brother-in-law is state patrol. He asks what my brother-in-law's name is so I tell him. Oh, I know him, we are good friends. He then proceeds to call the brother-in-law on the speaker phone. He tells him "Hey, I've got somebody here that says they know you", then I start talking on the phone and it goes like this: (keep in mind that the brother-in-law knows I build fast cars) me: "Hey, whats up?" brother-in-law: "Who is this?" me: "It's Bryan" brother-in-law: "What did you do? What car are you driving? You had to be doing something really bad to get pulled over by this guy, he never pulls anyone over." Me and the other guy are ROFL at this point. Then we explained the real story. Just another craiglist encounter.