mobythevan

That clears up several things.

I believe that is it, just turn it on. You could use my values I guess, like they say it is only for resets whcih should not occur ever on a normally operating megasquirt installation.

Do you mean the spark table value that is highlighted while idling shows 28, but you timing light reads 20? Remember that the table is interpolated so if the previous cell is 16 and this cell is 28, but your rpm or map is in between you will get a value in between. And, the megatune dial gauge will be showing the interpolated value from the spark table. So it sounds like you are working OK. To verify you can always set the entire table or at least a portion of it to a fixed value of 28 and make sure the megatune gauge shows that and the timing shows that.

The limits are only used as a bandaid for unwanted processor resets. Because I am at high altitude (my normal kpa reads 77) I have the settings at min=60, max=103. The bottom line is that if you are having resets you need to fix that problem, but these settings might at least help you get back home. Here is the text from the extra manual which doesn't tell you much:

I get a bad feeling from reading this thread. You seem to be running out of patience already and you haven't got the megasquirt ECU assembled yet. There is much more work to do and many things to understand with installation and tuning. Please do yourself a favor and slow down a little. Take the time to learn each piece. There should be tons and tons of info on the internet pertaining to soldering parts and removing them, explaining what solder wick is and how to use it, explaining the amount of heat to put in a part before destroying it. We don't mind answering questions, but we want to see you put in an honest effort as well. And please combine your posts into one next time (edit as mentioned). It is really annoying to read ten afterthoughts in different posts.

Sounds typical to me. I made a test bench where I could add pressure to the wastegate on both the diaphram input and the exhaust input so I could model any system pressures. When you do that and you assume the exhasut pressure equals boost pressure (which is what the manufacturers of wastegates assume for setting up initial spring values) then you will find that the smaller springs open under exhaust pressure. Like you see an 8lb spring will open under say 12 pounds of exhaust. The answer is simple, you have to run the wastegate spring that is closest to the boost value you want, this was mentioned earlier in the thread. Now, an exception to that is my talon where I run the 9psi factory wastegate, but run up to 18psi with MBC and I don't see any problems with it pushing open from exhaust pressure.. I think it is due to the smaller area of the wastegate puck, so 18psi on a tiny WG puck like the talon is not much total pressure. However 18psi on my 60mm wastegate puck/valve is much more total pressure that the spring has to hold. Begs the question, what wastegate are you using(internal or external)?

Are you sure the boost controller is not leaking?

text from the manual: I interpret that to mean the trigger occurs in the middle of the tooth.

yes, don't block off at the TB for leak test. You want to see if the intake gasket is leaking, injector seals at intake, check valves, etc.

soft rev limit maybe. ALso, a visual inpsection for a boost leak is not really good enough. When I pressurized my intake system on my talon it had a ton of leaks and even had one coupler that would hold until like 18psi then open up. I had check valves leaking, leaks between pipes, leaks in the throttle body, it was ugly. But after I fixed all of that stuff so it held pressure I get 18psi boost in all gears. Different car and engine, but the theory still applies.

and the tach info from Phil:

Here is the link to the original thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102244 I saved the jpeg re-linked it for this thread in case the original poster loses it.

Give me two minutes and I am going to sticky the MSD wiring picture and the link to the original thread. EDIT: the MSD wiring info is stickied, but it doesn't look like it talks about dwell, so you might want to add your findings there when everything works.

nah, have some fun while your still crazy enough to.

I don't think that is true. If you look at 029y4 or 029y5 you can select spark outputs A,B,C,D,E and F. So MSI extra looks like it supports up to 6 coil drivers. Of course you still have to add all the supporting hardware circuitry.

Yes, that is the spacer. I used it to run a 700r4 on my 5.3 last year. I am now using it to run a powerglide behind the 5.3

Yeah, the GB wire runs from the dizzy to MS. One end of the resistor taps into the GB wire, the other end of the resistor attaches to a 12v source.

1. Looks like you won't need the L28et ignitor, you will be using the IGBT on the megasquirt board to fire your coil. 2. Sounds like you got it, just connect the resistor between 12volts and where the GB wire connects to megasquirt. 3. 18awg should be fine 4. Run half of the injectors from each pair of wires. Like injectors 1,3,5 on 32,33 and injectors 2,4,6 on 34,35. That spreads the load on the fuel rail, but I don't think it really matters how you group up the injectors. Look through the MAP sharing sticky to see how people set up their injectors (usually alternating vs simultaneous).

That is a good detail to point out, it should eliminate several things. Are you using the ford module to run the EDIS or the MS box?

Which weighs more, a ton of z cars or a ton of feathers?

Here is something I recommend for everyone using a v2.2 pcb(that is all I use). I noticed after a bunch of testing for noise problems that the 2.2 pcb in no way connects the circuit board ground to the aluminum enclosure. The enclosure tends to gather a lot of noise and ends up causing weird behaviors. I verified the noise with a scope. I always solder two wires from the ground plane of the pcb to the big threaded lugs on the DB37 cable connector on that is placed on the PCB. You will notice that the connector itself is physically connected to the aluminum case with the two hex shaped screws. However, the big lugs that pop though the PCB don't connect to ground. You can grab your multi meter and measure the resistance from the case to PCB ground, there is no connection. So add a couple wires to ground everything and a ton of noise will be gone. I have seen it and documented it but I am not sure I posted about it before. The kind of problem you are seeing seems to me to fall in the bucket of flaky issues: bad solder joints, noise, bad components, bad power/gnd connections to MS, etc. FWIW I run the v2.2 pcb in my daily driver. I have changed code version and changed settings numerous times over the last two years and 40K miles without ever seeing a single problem with losing settings. Same thing with my friends daily driver and my rx7. So check over your board carefully and all connections for power and ground. Was the board soldered by a supplier or an individual? Hopefully you can find it, nothing is more aggravating than having to re-load on the side of the road.

Is this a v2.2 pcb or v3.0 pcb?

If it is the FP relay and not the main power you might also check that the processor is all the way in the socket on the MS board. Also check solder joints for the processor socket if the solder job is in question. My friend had one that he didn't get the processor plugged in all the way and it had what appeared to be noise related resets until it was pushed in the socket properly.

I wired one up wrong, luckily it didn't fry. That is convenient to live close to them!

Read the wiring instructions closely. They are not color coded intuitively.