mobythevan

I misread the post, I thought it was dropping while running. I have seen them drop off all the pressure like that when turned off.

I don't think you'll get much input on this problem until you put a new fuel pump on the car. Running with a fuel pump that drops to 5 psi pressure?? No reason to make it harder than it has to be to get megasquirt running.

Well Doc, I might have to take you up on a helmet. JEGs kinda screwed me. They advertise the helmet as M2005, but it doesn't have any sticker anywhere in or on it. Plus its just a made in china POS. Now I have to pay to send it back to them to get a refund. And I thought ordering it from them would guarantee it would be a drag racing helmet, bastards.

Ok, we are all bummed that our favorites cars didn't make it higher on the list, so my complaint is the supercharged mad max car. That is the movie car I always think of.

I think you have 5 of everything As soon as the car is running I will get those heads fixed and installed. Should be insane. My friend has a nice video recorder, he took some video at the drag strip last summer and it turned out really nice. I'll get him to come by the house and shoot some video when its fired up.

I think I will be ready to fire up the turbo 5.3 RX7 I can't wait to hear the sound of 4 inch downpipe dumping near the tranny with no muffler, very street friendly. This is by far the craziest car I have built yet, I ordered a helmet from jegs in anticipation of being quicker than 13.99 I need to drive it a little so I don't feel bad swapping to my set of ported heads and upgrading to an 88mm wheel in the T6 housing.

The MAP sensor is inside the megasquirt box. You just run a vacuum line to it so your covered there. In that article they are using the 82-83 style 280zx turbo dizzy which means you must control the timing with the megasquirt box because that dizzy does not provide any mechaincal timing adjustment. It is made for computer timing control so it works perfect with megasquirt.

Could it be the same issue that some of the LC-1 widebands had where you are required to have a series resistor in line to the megasquirt? Without the resistor the connection to the megasquirt would draw too much current and cause ??? (can't remember what happened, just remember you needed the resistor)

The fuel pressure should be rising as you give it throttle, so seeing it drop off doesn't sound right(even if it only drops a little bit). Sounds quite a bit like my car when the stock FPR was bad.

ha ha, that brings back memories.

Once you switch to running a turbo re-tune your fuel table. You will reach new areas on the VE table that you didn't use before (on boost).

That is what I did, went and got two neon coil packs for my V8 setup.

I didn't do the Newbie thing, I'm just a mod I can't mess with that stuff. I didn't reply to this thread simply because I haven't done any work with the 76 dizzy to megasquirt, sorry.

If you have the wideband sensor and you wan't to do correction you need to set up the target AFR tables and set the authority and other EGO settings, but you could worry about that later after you have it running.

Here are my thoughts: 1. Your are running PWM, so I guess your injectors are low impedance types, is that true? 2. FIDLE threshold should be a lot lower, like 80-120 degrees maybe. That assumes you are really using a fast idle solenoid. 3. If you don't have a wideband or narrowband O2 sensor then just set the active above RPM to like 7000rpm. Maybe it doesn't matter since the authority is 0. Just make sure it is disabled, looks like it is to me. 4. If your TPS only shows 135 at full throttle I would check and make sure you are really opening up the throttle blade all the way when you push the pedal. Sounds like you are only getting about half throttle. Otherwise you settings look fine to get the car running and then start tuning.

65 for the spark angle should be fine. I run the same gauge wire on both 12 volt and 12 volt switched.

I have run for over two years now and 33K miles on my Talon with V2.2 hardware and never seen the MS need to be re-flashed. If it happens to you I would look into your power and ground to the MS.

Yeah, the the approach I use is open the throttle blade with the screw to make sure it will get enough air to start, idle may be really high but it doesn't amtter at this point. Then adjust fuel up or down until it starts.

I basically used the defaults for overrun settings. rpm greater than: 1700 and KPA lower than: 20 and TPS lower than: *** and coolant greater than: 60 after sec: 0 *** you need to open the calibrate TPS window and get the raw count when your throttle pedal is completely closed. Then add ~3 to that value and enter it into the TPS section, so it won't cut fuel until you are virutally off the gas pedal. Every car will be different for the TPS raw count because it depends on where your throttle position sensor got installed. Mine was setting at 20 when I am off the pedal, so I entered 25. This saves a lot of gas for me. As far as a wideband I just use the LC-1 type on all my cars.

I thought this was another Napoleon Dynamite thread

I think you have to have the wideband sensor and run in closed loop all the time to get the best economy. You also have to have your MAP tuned close enough that the wideband correction is not having to make a lot of adjustments. Ideally the map would be tuned tuned very good for economy and the the target AFR table would be very close to what the MAP does also for economy, then when there are any changes in environment the closed loop correction will quickly keep you at the AFR you originally wanted for gas mileage (like 15.5:1 for example at cruising). Another thing is to make sure your overrun settings are working so that anytime you are coasting downhill or into stoplights the injectors are completey off. I use both of these methods to get good mileage on my car. If you can't buy a wideband sensor you should at least tune the car with one so you know that you are not wasting gas anywhere on the MAP(VE table). Maybe you can find someone locally that has one or go to a dyno.

Yeah, let us know what you ended up doing. It seems to me you just need to make the crankcase vent large enough depending on your engine's amount of blowby.

If you are worried about getting the best gas mileage you will not want to use anyone elses MAP, it just doesn't make sense. You will want to buy a wideband for $200 (LC-1) and connect it to megasquirt. Then run closed loop mode all the time using target AFR tables(from idle to WOT). You can then adjust the target AFR tables to be as lean as you want to run, risking harm to your engine. I run this way on my turbo Talon and I get 27mpg driving to work with a few 18psi bursts each day. I haven't made a road trip with it recently but it will go over 30mpg on the highway with no problem.

I was just being funny, that is why I put the "ha ha ha". Let me know if you didn't find what you are looking for in that link.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112931 Somehow I get the feeling you didn't look through the stickied posts. ha ha ha