mobythevan

What kind of signal does that sensor put out?

sounds like the perfect excuse to go V8. Most of the time people need turbo upgrades, you OTOH just need an eninge upgrade

I guess the use for this is mainly to have enough I/O to do COP and sequential injection. It would be fun to play with since you will be writing your own code to interface with the extra I/O. Me, I'm happy with wasted spark and batch fire. That leaves plenty of I/O on MS1 for me to do anything I can think of at the moment. This looks a little involved for most people (thats a challenge, any takers:mrgreen:)

I noticed over the weekend that my setup just wasn't running as good as it should, then I realized that the tach in megatune is bouncing around. At idle it is mostly at 750-800 then jumps over 1000 and back. Holding the engine closer to 1200rpm and it jumps as high as 2000. I am going to put a scope on it tonight to see what is wrong. I have the circuit set up to use the falling edge of the LSx crank sensor input(according to the hall circuit for v2.2 pcb in msns manuals). The falling edge is evenly spaced, the rising edge is not. I also tried a couple experiments. One used the LSx crank sensor signal through a 1K resistor directly to the processor pin. This should be OK because the crank sensor outputs a 5v square wave. Still got the same results. I also disconnected the alternator just in case, but still the same. It may be a problem with where I have connected 5volt supply and ground for the cranks sensor. When I solve this one I think I am ready to head to the track.

Its nice when that is possible, I know a lot of people don't have the option to get there engine running or see it running before the Megasquirt install. I just installed the bad LS1 and had to pull it right back out, not fun.

I finally decided to use the knock detection features in the Extra code. I ordered a KnocksenseMS module today from Boris. His website is http://www.viatrack.ca:80/ He said I can wire both LSx knock sensors to the module in parallel. I am curious to see how it works. I had to tell him the bore size for the frequency filter. I want this to work before I install the TV71 turbo this fall.

That is just a startig point, you might end up needing 2 seconds or 20 seconds. Let us know what happens.

I would hold the timing light on it while it goes through the whole dying process. If timing looks good all the way through, even when it cuts out and winds down to a halt, then maybe look somewhere else. Set timing in MS to fixed 10 BTDC to help make this easier. We run the HEI 8 pin module in my friends TPI setup. The only problem he use to have was that the module would overheat because of no heat sink compound on it in the GM dizzy. It would run for a couple minutes, then die. IT has been a long time since I helped him set up to use the 8 pin module, I can go back and look at my TPI install notes. scratch that, I changed my thinking while typing this: You know, your description sounds a lot like ASE settings. I have seen that a lot where the engine starts good, then leans out due to ASE and dies right away. For the first fire up I always set my ASE to at least 10 seconds (not cycles). The default for ASE is in processor cycles and is gone almost immediately after startup.

OK, I got over my whining and bought an LM7(5.3) engine last week. Swapped all the LS1 parts over to it (intake/water pump/crankshaft pulley/oil pan/etc). Got the engine installed in my RX7 over the weekend and it is back up and running on Megasquirt. So I updated the instructions above with a couple new things I learned. I let the engine idle for several minutes and it sounded really good. The MS setup seems to be very close. Next step is to tune with my wideband and see how it drives.

Well, the fun is over. Don't wait on me to finish testing out the LS1 megasquirt setup. You can read the entire horror story and see pictures at the follwoing link. It had nothing to do with megasquirt. Basically I have to find a new engine or block. http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-build-threads/43173-mobythevans-ls1-fc-megasquirt-5.html#post413520

I have done the NA to Turbo dizzy swap with Prox's car. There is an aluminum spacer that sets the NA dizzy up about 2 inches, you need to remove that. Then you need the turbo dizzy, turbo dizzy oil driveshaft. Loosen the sway bar, drop the oil pump, put in the new turbo dizzy driveshaft, keep timing correct and you are set. Helps to put the engine at TDC before starting.

ha ha ha, I know what you are trying to ask. Yes you are correct, the end of the rotor is much wider than an N/A rotor arm. So that it can account for the entire range of rotation across your advance curve. Go to autozone and ask for a 280zx turbo rotor and look at it, then tell them its not the right part and leave. Then you will smile and say "I knew it"

I am going to link this from the install guide, thanks for the info.

let us know when it fires. I'm always too scared to allow film crews in during the initial fire up

No problem, I know other people have all this info, but they don't write it up for some reason. BUT wait until I get runtime on my setup before we call this good. Of course people that are up for an adventure should be able to take these settings and get there LS1 running. For some reason I couldn't get trigger return cranking to work, even though the trigger return is at 15 BTDC and I set the cranking angle to 15 to match. Not sure about that yet, but I just put it back to time based cranking for now. Thanks to James for putting in the rising and falling second trigger mod. Thanks to Mathew for helping me understand the LS1 trigger positions. Thanks to Z-ya for advice on LS1 coil dwell Thanks to the LS1 for teaching more than I ever wanted to know about wasted spark/wheel decoders/second trigger Ha Ha, just had to have an oscar moment

This seems to be the easiest thing to blow up on a megasquirt. Dwell settings and spark output inversion settings are the two major reasons for blowing these up. I didn't see dwell settings in the pictures above.

Any given engine will require an airflow to idle, you can start by opening your idle valve all the way. If that is not enough air, then you need to open the throttle plate to allow more air. As simple as that. Every engine I start with megasquirt I do two basic things. I have someone else crank the engine from inside the car while I check the cranking timing with a light (without checking timing how will it ever start, just by luck?), and then I operate the throttle blade by hand while they crank it over. That way I can adjust the airflow to get it to start, then adjust the idle screw to hold the plate open. This method works very well, all engines start right away with the required fuel calculated from megasquirt.

That is the same helmet I have had for 5 years. I have put in a lot of time under it and it has worked great. Cost me $169 back when, but at the time it had a bit larger view than the real cheap ones.

And remember, if your a budget guy then Megasquirt goes right on the 4G63 engine using the stock crank and cam sensors. I have run 18psi boost on my talon for 21k miles now, it has been a lot of fun.

Good call, my tractor has a pusher from the back like that. If the fan is flowing correctly, then a lot of the problems at highway speed still come down to air flow and ducting. If you do not seal up everything in the front from the air dam/front inlet to the radiator, not enough of the air will make it through the radiator even if the fan is running at highway speeds. It comes down to pressures in front of the rad and behind the rad. A lot of times the engine compartment becomes pressurized at high speeds with no belly pan under the front, but the pressure below the radiator (between front and rad)is lower , so the air goes right under and around the radiator like mentioned above. Of course you can check all the normal things (rad cap, hoses, head gasket, coolant mixture, blockage, thermostat, system pressure, etc etc), but in the end I belive you need that front end sealed up at least between the air inlet from the front end and the radiator. People might get by with less, but why not fix it good like the factory does on newer cars. I like to look at newer cars to see how they seal up everything with foam, duct everything, just to get ideas for these older cars. I hate overheating problems

If it has always been high and you built the board maybe the wrong resistor was installed on the board and the calibration is off.

OK, to change the authority and step sizes and correction amount, etc You go under the basic settings tab then go under exhaust gas settings. You will have to do some research, but it was my belief that these settings are used to make changes in the fuel to reach your target AFR values. Obviously you want your VE table as close to the desired AFR as possible so the least amount of corrections are needed to reach the target AFRs from the target table. I could be wrong about this, I haven't looked into it lately.

I must be thinking of autotune for setting the correction values and steps, etc. You should use autotune first to get the correct VE table for the AFRs you want, then run with target AFR tables turned on.

Remember to setup up you r correction values also, once you have the target AFR table created. You really want to set up the valuse that tell MS how much correction it can do in total, how much per step and how often between corrections.

Sounds good. When in doubt add ground wires between everything, battery to engine block, engine block to frame, car body to frame (doesn't really apply to z cars) etc etc