mobythevan

2800cc 6 injectors stock injector size(can't remember, are they 260cc) AFR 14.7 Anyway that works out to 12 on required fuel

something else you might consider since you would like to go speed density, might as well be able to program fuel and spark easily(the next logical step is to install 2 stock 280zxt turbos, that is what we are doing): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101901 We installed TPI on two different 350's now with megasquirt and they both kick butt down low. One is in a 37 rod and the other in a 76 stepside truck. Both installs were retro-fits and required milling out the center four bolt holes because it was too hard at the time to find the earlier TPI manifolds. It was relatively easy to do the bolt hole mod.

Thanks to Metro for taking these screenshots of his setup. The biggest difference with Metro's setup versus the install guide is the use of the 83zxt distributor in the install guide. His car is setup as follows: v3 MS board Stock injectors Aeromotive RRFPR, just 1:1 ratio like stock Stock Fuel Pump, at about 40psi 240sx TB 1g DSM BOV Grainger style MBC @ 10psi Ignition: '76 VR distributor with mechanical advance locked, set as far counterclockwise as possible GM 4pin HEI running out of D14 (LED 17) and not FIDLE MSnS Output Settings Spark Settings VE Table Spark Table Constants Cranking Enrichments After Start Enrichments Warmup Enrichments Acceleration Enrichments I will try again to attach the zip file with the msq, let me know if this doesn't work. metro_024s9_msq.zip

I think the z31 ecu swap is easier, but I have never done it. I say run MSI with extra code if you decide to use megasquirt. MSII will control huge injectors better (high resolution). If you plan to run 1000cc injectors or bigger go with MSII.

cleaning rag stuck in the pipe? I am going to stick with the foreign object theory that veritech started.

msefi should have some guidelines for setting dwell in MSII on a generic coil, probably GM. I would start with those settings and see if the coil is getting hot, or spark is too weak.

yeah, like you said, just make sure you know that is the case. I have seen several threads on other sites about "some" of those cheap turbos and they are definitely not made on the same equipment, or have the same quality control. So just be careful, any of those places could have changed their quality control by now.

Boy, all I can say is that I had a 260z engine that the dizzy would not lign up correctly and it turned out that the timing chain was not installed correctly, so make sure that you know the timing chain is correct. I monkey'd around and slotted the dizzy so the timing would be correct and then fired it up and the valves where hitting the pistons. That was back in the beginning before I learned to check my basics when something doesn't lign up. It bent one valve. Bleachzee already said the timing could be off on the chain, did you have a chance to check it?

That is a quality turbo that you linked the second time, I was able to find a rebuilt garrett turbo for about $450, so it is possible to save a little money. Just be careful on those cheaper units, sometimes they seem to work for people, sometimes they don't.

I scrimp in a lot of areas, but I have never bought a cheap ebay turbo and I wouldn't recommend doing that to anyone. A Turbo plus external wastegate plus BOV for $385 + $60 shipping does not sounds like something I would try, but if you do try it at least give a report of reliability/quality here on the group. It is always interesting to see what happens to these as they get 5K,10k, 20k miles on them. Try as I might I cannot find out on that link what the turbine specs are, they only say that it is a TO4E compressor in a 70A/R compressor housing. You need to know what the turbine A/R is for sure. Search a little more on turbo sizing based on your horsepower goals. I bought a TO4E 57 trim 60AR compressor with T3 63AR turbine that was clipped and I was very happy with that at 300-375hp level. To do it over again I would have went with the TO4E (50,57, or 60) trim in 60 AR compressor housing with T3 63 AR turbine stage III wheel. I think that is a pretty typical old style turbo choice for most people on here. They just vary between the 50,57,60 trim compressor wheels and stage 1,2,3 turbine wheels. Then it bolts right on to a stock turbo engine with only a spacer needed between the exhaust manifold and turbo and support upwards of 450hp at the crank.

I would go into court with these thoughts: If he didn't radar you or follow you to determine speed, then what is his case?? Driving too fast for unposted conditions? Again, what was your documented speed? Are his eyeballs calibrated, if so maybe he works at baseball games calling pitch speeds in his off time. But then I don't do very well in court so....

The speed density system uses a MAP sensor to measure maniflod pressure, that sensor is located on the Megasquirt computer and you just run a vacuum line to your manifold. Using the MAP sensor is that standard way to go with megasquirt. With the Extra code you can possibly run a MAF meter instead, it allows support for MAF.

That was in the ultimate turbo FAQ, it also has a better description in there:

I got the files from metro so I will be making a new stick so everyone has access to MSnS_Extra024s9 settings in an easy fashion.

The thing that happens most often with the rich problem is that one of the yellow wires should only get 12 volts during cranking, it provides a cranking enrichment. When I first did the swap I had it hooked to 12 volts all the time and it ran so rich is would choke you in the garage with the door open. the plug #2 start signal as shown below is what I am referring to:

My injectors are soooo big (for olderthanme ) Any correction at all , even one tick (.1 msec without high resolution code) puts me out to lunch at idle or cruising. So maybe I could get the target AFRs in those areas to match where the car really runs and it wouldn't make an adjustment there. Or the other option is to only adjust above 3500rpm, but that would only work for autotune right, once the target AFR table is turned on I can't select any portion to ignore??