mobythevan

This guy got it running, apparently using the optical sensor, although it doesn't seem to be stated 100% in the thread which dizzy was used. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107106

Seeing you say the forum is worthless was the highlight of my day as well, we will probrably both get hit by the same truck, maybe DHL going between CO and LA.

I agree, can we just do away with the forum, everyone says its useless, everyone whines if they don't get a concise technical answer and everyone wants answers pronto. Diyautotune already keeps an install guide for z car.

acceleration and decel enrichments are listed in the sticky guide, but you should be tuning the VE table with accel enrichement disabled according to the tuning manual.

What I would do is slowly bring the car up in RPMS setting in neutral until it starts to sputter, then hold it there and adjust the VE value at that spot to see if you can smooth it out. Just tuning by ear at this point without a wideband, narrowband or some indicator.

On a non-turbo car a narrow band sensor may get you running good enough to drive to work. On a turbo car, do yourself a favor and do not try to tune with a narrow band sensor. When tuning with a NB02 sensor you ask yourself this question: "Do I want 14.7 AFR throughout the entire VE table?" If yes, then use NB02. If you want 11.8, 12.5, 13.2, 15 AFRs or anything other than 14.7 then tune with a WB02. Some people say you can tune different AFRs with a NB02, but people also say that V8 swaps suck, R180 rear end will hold and you don't need an ACT clutch.

actually, z-ya jogs my memory, when I had those errors it was because I was not running the correct megatune version to support the msns_extra version.

I have tried to get rid of the warnings that you show, in particular the Hcut and Overbcut with no luck and I don't understand a thing about the audit file. Let me know if you figure it out. I know I could ask on msefi.com and put it to rest, but I haven't had time. Probably has to do with me not understanding the way the cut limiters work, just like we saw with the soft retard limit this week.

ha ha, my custom heat shield was mounted to the engine so that would have worked. I know what this is like, I have got stuck re-doing the same thing 3 times to get it right. Don't fret and you'll have it set up right before you know it.

I didn't realize until reading this post over at msefi.com, but the soft limit timing is actual timing you enter in the box, not the amount you want to retard when the soft cut limit is reached: GarageWorks wrote: So if you put 10 in the box for soft rev limit retard, it will make the timing 10 degrees any time the soft limit is activated? Not subtract 10 degrees from the value in your map? yes.

I think you mean interpolate between the points. But the stock TPS only has two points, on and off so that wouldn't work. MS does require a varying resistance TPS which produces a varying voltage like you say. I have not investigated yet but I believe you can run without TPS altogether and use MAP for all calculations including accell enrichments. I want to try this on my 454 and avoid using a TPS sensor if possible. I am sure there is more info about not using a TPS on msefi.com but I haven't looked for it yet because I'm not ready to try stuff yet. Somebody here mentioned it, that is why I think it is possible.

Sounds good, I just wanted to make sure you really wanted 35 degrees at idle.

That is awesome, I love reading stories like this. Instead of the whiny stories that someone can't find a widget and don't know what to do about it. Go to the lathe or mill and make it, thats what it is all about. Helps make you appreciate every part that is on the car.

10 degrees is adequate and realize that it only soft limits for a fixed time because running continously with retarded timing under load will cause a cherry hot exhaust manifold and turbo IIRC, since it fires late and will still be burning on the way out if too late. Ask Tony D about that, I remember his story of an aewsome spooling turbo that quickly melted down with wildly retarded timing.

I didn't see an msq file show it so I guess its fixed and you car is running great now?

What don't you know how to tune? Spark table Fuel table acceleration after start enrichment using the wideband meter tuning with autotune tuning manually with a friend using target AFR tables Start steering us in the right direction so we can help. What does the wideband show right now for idle? cruise? under load? Get a friend in the passengers seat with megatune open and drive down the road holding the dot in different parts of the map and he can adjust the fuel in, that works great with the wideband meter and I know you have one.

Thats right, because once I learned how to tune it I changed over to the MSnS_Extra code, which also isn't in the sticky, my settings for it are in the map sharing sticky. 021u code The sticky is very very basic and was written for MSnS original Magnus code. It really should be re-written for MSnS_extra and include real tuned settings for timing and fuel (when I used wideband and 450cc injectors).

I know that someone can quickly show you how to tune and use the megasquirt software. I wish I was closer.

I am confused after reading those two sentences?? I set timing at idle to 23 BTDC, then increase up to 38 BTDC by 3000 rpm, at any place in the timing map I remove 1 degree of timing per psi of boost.

if things are not tuned correctly for idle and the idle drops below 300 or 400 rpm it re-starts the ASE cycle again which causes all kinds of problems. However, if rpms are staying above 500 then you should be OK in that respect.

Remember that the only reason I used a GM HEI module was because the old megasquirt code back then could not do dwell. Since dwell control has been added you can use any transistor to fire the coil. The GM HEI 4 pin module would control dwell well enough on its own to work with the really old code.

Thanks for the update

I have the target AFR table turned on so I think the EGO switchpoint in my setup is mute??

when you are rotating the dizzy by hand you are causing the optical disc of the CAS to pass through the light beam in the dizzy, that is what triggers the megasquirt and causes the center LED to come on.

A long shot, but I had dust get in my AFM and cause it to stick. It would stick open, maybe yours drags and can't open good?