mobythevan

Looks good to me for 11psi, ~260hp, ~300tq

More stuff I see When I open the msq it shows 6 warnings(says its writing them to audit.log), never try to start the car when warnings show up, that means you have really screwed up settings somewhere in megatune. For instance I looked through your settings to locate a couple of the warnings, audit.log says stuff like HCUT value wrong, HCUT means hard cut to me, so I went right to the rev limiter settings, BTW this is the first time I have looked in the audit log to find a warning. Found that your soft and hard rev limits were set to something like 24000 rpm, so I set soft limit to 6500, hard limit to 7000. That was easy to find, unless you wanted a 24000rpm rev limit , that did get rid of a couple of the warnings.

Yep, you need to read the tuning section of the manual and then use the calculator to get the correct required fuel value for your injectors and also set the injectors to "alternating" instead of "simultaneous", otherwise your useable required fuel value is going to be too low, causing idle adjustment problems. Follow the tuning guide and just get the engine idling after you fix required fuel. I think you are going to find that your VE table has to change a bunch across the entire table, but start with just idling. Do you have a wideband so you can adjust the fuel at idle?

OK, I looked at the msq file, now I have several questions and advice for you: 1. How did you set up megatune so that it is configured correctly for 024s code? 2. Did you calibrate the TPS? 3. You have not calculated required fuel correctly yet (see the tuning section of the manual), required fuel of 12 in your msq means that you are using stock 280zxt injectors, is that true? 4. Your fuel VE table is screwed up, it has the value 22 loaded in more than half the table, you need to fix that (make it look like the VE table in the sticky) interpolate to fill in the extra spaces if needed. 5. Same problem on the spark table, it has 22 loaded in half the table. It should look like the ignition table in the sticky. This may sound like tough love, but you have to read the tuning manual and the instructions for MSnS_Extra or you are just hurting yourself. I can point out everything to get the car running, but then when one thing goes wrong in the future you won't know what to do. ONE OTHER THING, I don't think the resistor between 11 and 12 is needed with the v3.0 board if you are using the IGBT coil driver, Foundsoul, is that needed as far as you know?

Ok, 3.4 required fuel looks low to me. What size injectors are you running? To get a similar value from the calculator to what you have I had to enter like 60lb injectors.

Yeah, I couldn't find it by searching either. read this post for general timing tuning scroll down to post #6 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91006 Your question on hall sensor for tuning confuses me a little. From my understanding either the v2.2 or v3 megasquirt will work with the optical trigger input. v2.2 requires the pullup resistor, v3 maybe it doesn't need the resistor? You set up your own trigger angle, so you can set it at 78, 59, 53, whatever you want as long as it triggers ealry enough to allow for your max advance. Example: if you want to run total timing of 40 degrees somewhere in your spark table then you need a trigger that happens before 40 degrees, like 50 degrees. The idea is that you set the trigger angle to say 78 degrees, then you entered a fixed angle of 10 degrees just for setup purposes. Then you crank the engine and rotate the dizzy until you see 10 BTDC on the crank timing mark with your timing light, that calibrates the trigger angle, then you go back in and set fixed angle to -10 which turns off fixed angle mode and lets you run from your table again. Then you can fire up the engine and let it idle, megatune shows you what your current spark advance is and you can verify with the timing light on the crankshaft. This may be stuff you already know, but better to cover everything in one thread.

The most obvious thing is that you need the correct type of serial cable, the manaul tells you which one, there are two types.

The easiest way to start on no spark problems with the turbo swap is to divide the problem. Check to see if the yellow/white wire pulses from the ECU during cranking(using a light). That way you know whether it may be a inhibit wire missing to the ECU, or coil wiring that is wrong. Is the GL inhibit wire tied to let the ECU spark?

As for no fuel you need to break out the multimeter and start down the path. Make sure the fuel pump relay turns on, make sure the wire at the relay board has 12volts, then make sure the wire at the fuel pump has 12 volts. Seems more likely that the fuel pump relay never turns on, don't rely on hearing it click on, actually measure the voltage. I'll look at the msq before commenting on no spark.

Before we start into the troubleshooting, email me your msq file that you are using on the car. bryan@srccomp.com

Somewhere on this site is an ignition table from a nissan four cylinder from 240zturbo, James You'll have to look around to dig it up.

Looks great, I got my EDIS8 module and coils in. I didn't get the connector for the module. That seems like the only piece I am missing now.

Standard MSI software does not run spark. So load it with MSnS_Extra. If you buy an assembled kit have them load it with MSnS_Extra. MSnS_Extra works on MSI v2.2 or V3. It does not work yet on MSII processor. Hope that helps, be sure to check through every setting and every section of MSnS_Extra in Megatune, there are a lot of things, when in doubt use the Bowling and Grippo defaults which have a marker by them in each section of Megatune.

The 1k 1/4 watt resistor you mention is for the GM HEI module, since you are using v3.0 board, the IGBT pin can drive the coil and you don't need the resistor or GM module. The fuel pump relay power seems to be popular for powering the LC-1, you can do that. Or you can pull it from anywhere else that is on during running and cranking, or just running.

I knew you were crazy already. Good job on the swap.

The dwell determines the amount of time the coil is charged between each spark, so it will certainly have an impact at high rpms. It is much better to run with dwell settings than to use the minimal HEI IMO. Sounds like the rich mixture is hard to light off. Looks like your on the right track.

Definitely post the datalog and msq on the http://www.msefi.com MSnS_Extrra forum and here. Those guys may be faster to scan logs and settings to point out possible problems. The HEI module can charge the coil good well over 5000 rpm in 6 cylinder application. Mine worked to 6500rpm. My initial thought is that your AFRs are off at WOT at 5000. Even though the VE location may be the same for 3/4 throttle versus full throttle at 5000 and full boost in both cases, the amount of fuel delivered changes because the TPS reading will change. You don't have a wideband do you?

Use a 5v source for the pullup like with the GM module. MSI comes in two flavors, v2.2 and v3.0 v3.0 has some added features that are nice like the coil drive tranistor on the board. MSII I thought was a daughterboard that plugs into a v3 board and upgrades the processor, but MSnS_Extra code is not supported for that processor yet. So I would stick with MSI in either v2.2 or v3.0 and use the MSnS_Extra code. MSII does support GM TPI nicely and supports the fast idle air controller in a TPI setup, so if you are going with a chevy V8 TPI install MSII would be good.

Someone with v3 proofread my responses, because I haven't built one, but think my answers apply Comments in message: Run three injectors from inj1/inj2 and three injectors from inj3/inj4, that way you split the load across the two injector drivers. CLT ret to engine ground is correct. Use a 470ohm current limiting resistor to connect your LC1 to O2 input. LC1 wire to one side of resistor, other side of resistor to O2. Make sure switched 12 volt is on during running and cranking The 12 volt can come from the extra inector terminal, that is OK Looks good, let us know.

I still think you want the 1K resistor to pullup on the FIDLE to the base of the transistor like it does to the "G" connection of the GM hei module(not inline lik you show it). Yes, if pin 4 (180 degree) is the 4 slot output then everything else looks correct. I personally like to buy the megasquirt v2.2 from Jerry at DIYautotune unassembled for $134. That price rocks Run either 024s13 code or the newly released stable code 029q Better to stick with 024s13 because there are less options and less confusion.

On a v3 board pin 36 on the DB37 connector is for coil control. This how a coil connects to v3 board, nevermind the VR inputs: Coil + always goes to constant 12 volt. Coil - goes to your tranistor which temporarily connects coil - to ground to fire the coil. If you want to use the tranistor in the dizzy, then connect pin 2 to ground (transistor emitter), connect FIDLE to pin 1 with pullup resistor (transistor base), and the coil - is already connected to the transistor collector according to that schematic. Connect coil + (pin 7) to 12 volts on during cranking and running. Then stock resistor and ignition module in the schematic would be removed. That should give you the correct way on all three setups, v2.2 with GM HEI, V3 with VB921, v2.2 with stock dizzy transistor. Now get that thing ordered.

Ha Ha, lets see what Phil is willing to pay

If I read your schematic correctly you have version 3.0 board for Megasquirt?? If that is true then you don't use GM module or transistor in dizzy becuase it is already on your board? Just want to make sure. Otherwise if you have version 2.2 megasquirt board you are on the right track with the GM module.

Yes use the transistor in the dizzy if possible, cleaner setup. That is the transistor to fire the coil.