mobythevan

nice one, heh heh

Looks like you guys got a bonus tip about using/not using heat tape on the downpipe from Klaus. Wonder how much difference that really makes??

I just tried it and it says "you've been banned"

I would email that pic to Klaus at innovate and let us know if he recommends you to use the heatsink. He should give you a quick answer for that distance, which is easy to see in the picture. I would like to know straight from the expert.

Yeah, sounds like you have a short. A wire perhaps that has worn through the shielding and shorts intermittently at the firewall maybe, or under the seat. Do you still have the box under the seat? Is there a rubber grommet where all the wires pass through the firewall?

Excellent, thanks for the tip. I wondered about the IAT placement. Bernard, I will control the water injection with MSnS so I don't think I need anything else, just a relay for the pump. I forgot about that when I saw your post earlier. I checked the water injection page for MSnS and it also uses a fast acting valve to pulse the injection nozzle along with the fuel injectors.

I'm always up for another DIY project. Are these email plans or snail mail plans?

I figured it out scroll clear to the bottom and look left where it says posting rules in there it says smilies are on/off click on smilies text and it takes you to the FAQ window with the entire list atleast its the manual way but hey I'm a smilie

ha ha, you shouldn't be shutting off your car anyway. Drive it 24/7 seriously, did you find the problem yet?

If you just want the VE map itself, install a copy of extra code on your pc (not on your megasquirt box) and open up the .msq files we have here and just write it down so you can manually enter it in whatever version you want to use. I think the sticky shows a screenshot of my origianl fuel VE table. That may be the easiest way to get a VE entered to get you started.

Just to make sure we are all on the same page, all wideband O2 sensors have there own heater run by the wideband controller. They do not need any heat from the exhaust to work. It is important that they are not close enough to the engine to see more than 900 degrees because that overheats the sensor and the reading will not be accurate. When in doubt use the heatsink from innovate. Some narrowband sensors do not have a heater and must be close to the engine to use the exhaust heat. A single LC-1 wideband setup is capable of running the megasquirt and an AFR gauge because it has 2 outputs as mentioned.

Your on the right track, find someone with a wideband or go to a dyno so you can use the dyno and wideband to tune. LC-1 for $200 is the cheapest wideband option other than that.

This is an aluminum elbow, so welding was out for me. No I need to get the injection kit/pump on order.

where does this line come from? It is in the article: Women, far more than men, are likely to act out their behaviors in real life, such as having multiple partners, casual sex, or affairs. What studies back that up?

MSnS_Extra code on MSI v3.0 hardware will also run the ford EDIS system

zero, it is a locked/computer control distributor so there is no mechanical advance

From everything I have researched I put the wideband about 3 feet downstream from the turbo. It is not a concern to be farther away unless you have exhaust leaks or you need ultra fast wideband updates (which the $35 bosch sensor has been argued to be slower at responding than the $120 bosch sensor anyway). I don't believe in the response time argument for street applications. just my 2 cents Of course position the sensor so exhaust condensation won't puddle up on it (put it on top of the pipe, or top portion)

ok, and I'll be the noob to ask, how do you see all the smilies so you can put them in posts? I swear I have looked everywhere when I reply, like right now???

I ordered the LC-1 wideband today. I got the parts in to build the display, more updates to follow.

Yes, I plan to use the stock knock sensor on my Talon install. It does require building a seperate circuit, a fairly involved circuit. Look on the MSnS_Extra website to read more.

Lucky, mine reads 77kpa

yep, ford EDIS wasted spark ignition system. MSnS_Extra can run this type of ignition. Uses a crank trigger and gives you distributorless ignition.

I don't have a water injection kit yet, i just wanted to pop in a fitting while everything was apart and I only have a 3/8npt tap. SO I went ahead and added it. It is plugged for now and if I don't end up needing it, no big deal. Thanks

I will be drilling and tapping a 3/8 NPT hole right before my TB today for an air temp sensor. It would be real easy while everything is apart to drill and tap a second for water injection. I plan to run that shortly, is a 3/8 NPT hole OK, will that let me get a nozzle in there? And is right before the TB OK? I will be running a water/methanol mixture. I could search up some of this, but if you help me out on this one I can get everything finished today.

Here is a hard to read table of mine, I was running by Scottie-GNZ's rule of thumb. Get all timing in by 3000 and then drop 1-1.5degree per psi. Helix timing is lower for sure under boost. At 3K and 160kpa I'm at 26 degrees, he is at 23. Helix 14 degrees at 4500 and I'm at 24 degrees. I didn't have any pinging on 91 octane, but higher altitude. I thought at the higher rpms like 5k, 6k the engine wouldn't be loaded as much so more timing could be run? Mine was stock turbo engine running 14psi max,even though the table goes higher t3/t4 with npr IC and 12:1 AFR under boost(more like 11:1 right when boost first hit). EDIT: 14psi at my altitude gave me about 14psi+11psi=25psi manifold pressure, 25/.145=172kpa So I only ran up to 172kpa in my table MAP 220-5-20-18-18-18-19-19-19 180-5-20-18-20-20-24-24-24 140-5-20-20-22-26-30-30-30 100-5-20-26-30-34-38-38-38 90-5-20-26-30-34-38-38-38 70-5-20-26-32-36-39-39-39 50-5-20-26-32-36-40-40-40 30-5-20-26-30-34-38-39-39 rpm.4-.6-1.5-2-2.5-3-4---5 rpm in k