mobythevan

I wouldn't expect the sensor to be bad if you bought a new one. You can measure the resistance across the sensor at room temp and look up the sensor curve in the megamanual to see if the resistance reading is correct. Did you build the megasquirt yourself or buy a pre-assembled one? Wrong value resistor installed in the coolant sensor circuit??

Randy, Glad to hear you are up and running. I know how these projects can drag out. I wonder if my FPR was screwed up. That tune wasn't rich on my car, but the FPR was stuck in the beginning and then I never replaced it, so it could be? Or maybe I hold stock in Conoco, the world will never know.

you have to calibrate if you use the nissan CHTS. The calibration values are in the sticky and you use easytherm. Are you using the CHTS or GM coolant sensor?

sounds like the wrong version of msns.extra.ini file for the version of megatune you have installed. You always have to copy the .ini file into the megatune directory (don't remeber which directory off hand).

its on the way

If you download my o21u settings from the map sharing sticky I think it will have the 12x12 tables. You may have to install 021u on a pc temporarily to view the file. Don't load it on your megasquirt though, just use it on a pc to look at the fie settings.

Stock coil or stock ignitor? Or both? If you have a v2.2 board it cannot fire the coil directly. The FIDLE wire must fire an ignitor/module that in turn fires the coil. See the schematic above in this thread that shows how a GM 4 pin module is used to fire the stock 280zx turbo coil.

Bow to the king, baby. ha ha

The map sharing sticky and install guide both contain various base maps. Let us know when your up and running.

you could get a dsm. I've got $1500 in mine and it is a blast as a daily driver. Reliable? ehh, not sure about that, but fun.

PM prox and ask him how we hooked up his injectors. WE used the stock resistor pack, but I can't remember now if we only run one wire for power. IF there is only one wire in the harness then I am sure we only ran one and didn't worry about the current draw being too high. See what he has to say about that specific question. If you want to know specifically which wire to use for the CAS I would PM Tony D. on that one. The specific wire for the fuel pump? I can't remember. I cracked open the car schematics and tracked it down to a connector under the glove box, by the passenger door and then connected that wire to the relay board.

Prox, that will work fine using the voltmeter. I just wanted a display that was a little bigger and more custom looking. I have started construction of the circuit in breadboard format. I have just run out of time this week. My wife's business is really going well, so I am adding two more 10x20 loafing sheds and various other projects. I'll let you guys know when it is working, I have the LC-1 in hand now.

Yeah, just turn off O2 correction below 10,000rpm until you get a sensor.

Ok, this may be one ugly picture, but it has served its purpose for this very question many times.

No, megasquirt does not use a MAF sensor. It uses a MAP sensor which is built into the ECU. You just run a vacuum line to the ECU. Megasquirt does not need the O2 sensor to run. I never used it because I ran with a wideband sensor and manually wathced AFRs(so there was no closed loop correction on my setup). Just turn O2 off below 10,000rpm. FWIW, I started my engine first with the stock ECU then changed to megasquirt. But I just want to avoid misinformation about megasquirt.

The zxt does not have an IAC(idle air controller) as far as they are talking. To them (DIY auto) an IAC is either a stepper controlled or PWM idle air controller. The zxt has the AAR (auxilary air regulator). That is the bosch part with 2 pin connector and coolant running through the base. It only needs a 12volt signal while the car is running and then the bimetal valve slowly closes as the coolant heats up. It gives you a real basic fast idle function. My car worked great with it, but I did not have AC and other things that drag the idle down.

Cavitation occurs when the pressure of the liquid changes so much that the liquid vaporizes/boils so you get air in the water around the impeller. So you lose pumping ability. Why he says it occurs more in reverse flow I am not sure.

ok, I'll get you guys headed back in the right direction, here is a short paragraph from grape apes site.

Is this what you are after? Wasn't sure after reading the thread. Tony D made this nice ascii diagram:

The only thing I know of that MSII provides and Extra MSI does not is GM idle air control (stepper IAC) Extra MSI only does FORD pulse width modulation idle control. It would be nice to have the stepper control, but I want NOS injector staging, water injection control, and knock detection that the Extra MSI provides for my current projects. Thats right, I said NOS, might as well play with everything

So that location may not work then. Sounds like somebody needs to log AFRs with megasquirt and see if the middle of the plenum works better. A good experiment would be to log AFRs and move the sensor from the "pop off runner 6" location to middle of plenum and then before the TB and see if you get results like Drax's and then put up the graphs so we can all look over them. Who is up for that?

So it seems that the arguement over placement has boiled down to a comprimise between heat soak and placement as close to the cylinder as possible. Right before the TB being the best place for the least heat soak. And middle of the intake manifold being the best overall location with possible heatsoak. I guess my question/statement in line with z-ya would be: It seems that the time of most concern for IAT is under boost, and it follows that under boost there will not be any heat soak issues because so much air is moving by (and has been for some time). I believe the heat soak issues only happen after the car has set for a few minutes and you fire it back up, or maybe sitting at idle for a period of time. Ideally we would have an IAT on every intake runner just before the injector and a wideband on every exhaust manifold runner. The question still remains for water injection: Will water/alky mixture damage the GM IAT sensor? Does anyone have proof of that? Has someone been running for a while with water/alky injection hitting the sensor? -

If you have to retain the AFM, MSnS_extra029 does have settings to use a MAF, so maybe it is possible to use the stock AFM with it????

in the picture it is labeled as an "aquamist fast acting valve" http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/waterinj.html

MSnS ignores IAT once water injection is started until you drop below a set psi. I am not sure what that means fully, does it just ignore IAT so water injection doesn't turn off based on IAT or does it actually ignore it for fuel correction. I believe the former, anyone else looked into it further? Now, how did you slip that in there without an edit showing up??? I could swear there was no other reply after z-ya