mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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yeah, that looks pretty good since they state it is a straight through cable.
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Not necesarrily, serial cables come in both fashions, cross over or straight through.
Parallel AFAIK just means that there is more than 1 data line in the connector. A serial cable on has one data line and a parallel cable may have 12 or 16 data lines for example.
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I went and looked at it, it doesn't give a pinout. It will work as long as none of the signals cross over? Let us know if you get one.
As long as you could return it if it doesn't have all the connections, then I would try it.
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I don't believe that the MS can do this yet, you still need a WB system (innovative lm-1, lc-1 etc) to do this. They are working on a PWC that will be able to hook up directly to the WB sensor, and do the calculations.
To reiterate both points:
Megasquirt can use a wideband unit's output to correct fuel providing a closed loop mode(target AFR tables in MSnS_Extra), but Megasquirt cannot control wideband sensors directly so you still have to buy the controller and wideband sensor.
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What do you use for the trigger into megasquirt on this engine? Is it an optical CAS in the distributor like the 83 280zxt? You basically work with one number if you have a simple trigger input like an optical crank angle sensor.
(you try to eyeball your trigger to occur around 50-60 degrees BTDC on the crank, I think the install guide talks about how to do this)
Set your timing to fixed 10 degrees and then vary your trigger angle until you measure 10 degree BTDC on the crank. At that point if your trigger angle is less than 50 you will probably want to move the trigger sensor a little earlier (rotate dizzy on 280zx setups), you always like to trigger around 50 or more degrees early so you have allow yourself around 40 degrees of advance with some headroom. Confused?
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haha, those joe mama MBC suck
, I have one on my talon and then ball slipped by the spring and shut the output side permanently, had to take it apart and put the ball back in the correct place. I kept adjusting and adjusting and guess what, always too much boost, until I fixed the ball. Verify the ball is working correctly like the others say and use a compressor or something. -
to turn off accell anrichment you set the TPSdot threshold (v/s) real high, usually for normal driving it is around 1 v/s, so you set it to say 30 v/s, then you would have to push the pedal like you were superman to break the threshold. Then while driving you have to push the pedal in slower to accelerate, or you may notice dead spots or stumbling, but that is pretty easy to do while tuning.
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There are ways I believe to mess up the processor eprom (like BIOS on a PC) so that you can never load or communicate again unless you put the processor in a programming station and redo the basic eprom file. Worst case I guess you could ask Bowling and Grippo if you can mail back the processor itself and have them verify/reprogram it again? It hasn't happened to me yet so I am not 100% sure, but if you lost power during the middle of code update??
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I don't see why that wouldn't work, I guess if I was worried about hurting the crane unit, I would make a quick test setup using 12 volts and a toggle switch to fire an HEI module and make sure it works at least manually, one spark at a time, use a current limiting resistor for the test setup (like the schematic in the install guide shows for megasquirt triggering the HEI module).
Also, the HEI module rpm limit is higher on a 6 cylinder than 8 cylinder, see my reply over on zcar.com
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I guess it's time for a break or time for a drink.
Take a break and things will clear up. Read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance if your bored, it gives a person a new outlook on why we are working on vehicles to start with. Avoid the "gumption" traps where you lose all your drive, ambition, focus. Or beer will help just as good
We all have to vent, now lets get your car running.
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This guy got it running, apparently using the optical sensor, although it doesn't seem to be stated 100% in the thread which dizzy was used.
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Seeing you say the forum is worthless was the highlight of my day as well, we will probrably both get hit by the same truck, maybe DHL going between CO and LA.
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If no one else is running this, I am surprised we even have a Megasquirt forum.
I agree, can we just do away with the forum, everyone says its useless, everyone whines if they don't get a concise technical answer and everyone wants answers pronto. Diyautotune already keeps an install guide for z car.
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acceleration and decel enrichments are listed in the sticky guide, but you should be tuning the VE table with accel enrichement disabled according to the tuning manual.
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What I would do is slowly bring the car up in RPMS setting in neutral until it starts to sputter, then hold it there and adjust the VE value at that spot to see if you can smooth it out. Just tuning by ear at this point without a wideband, narrowband or some indicator.
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On a non-turbo car a narrow band sensor may get you running good enough to drive to work. On a turbo car, do yourself a favor and do not try to tune with a narrow band sensor.
When tuning with a NB02 sensor you ask yourself this question: "Do I want 14.7 AFR throughout the entire VE table?"
If yes, then use NB02. If you want 11.8, 12.5, 13.2, 15 AFRs or anything other than 14.7 then tune with a WB02.
Some people say you can tune different AFRs with a NB02, but people also say that V8 swaps suck, R180 rear end will hold and you don't need an ACT clutch.
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actually, z-ya jogs my memory, when I had those errors it was because I was not running the correct megatune version to support the msns_extra version.
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now, i've learned as well as any here that just flat out asking for answers isn't really the way this community works, but i figure it's worth a shot, because i feel close to getting this ish up and tunable.
I have tried to get rid of the warnings that you show, in particular the Hcut and Overbcut with no luck and I don't understand a thing about the audit file. Let me know if you figure it out. I know I could ask on msefi.com and put it to rest, but I haven't had time. Probably has to do with me not understanding the way the cut limiters work, just like we saw with the soft retard limit this week.
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ha ha, my custom heat shield was mounted to the engine so that would have worked. I know what this is like, I have got stuck re-doing the same thing 3 times to get it right. Don't fret and you'll have it set up right before you know it.
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I didn't realize until reading this post over at msefi.com, but the soft limit timing is actual timing you enter in the box, not the amount you want to retard when the soft cut limit is reached:
GarageWorks wrote:
So if you put 10 in the box for soft rev limit retard, it will make the timing 10 degrees any time the soft limit is activated? Not subtract 10 degrees from the value in your map?
yes.
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Can't I set up MS to expoliate(sp?) between points on the stock TPS? (I don't know if I'm stating this correctly) Does MS require a variable resistance reading from the TPS or what? Like a signal voltage that varies with the resistance of the TPS?
I think you mean interpolate between the points. But the stock TPS only has two points, on and off so that wouldn't work. MS does require a varying resistance TPS which produces a varying voltage like you say. I have not investigated yet but I believe you can run without TPS altogether and use MAP for all calculations including accell enrichments. I want to try this on my 454 and avoid using a TPS sensor if possible. I am sure there is more info about not using a TPS on msefi.com but I haven't looked for it yet because I'm not ready to try stuff yet. Somebody here mentioned it, that is why I think it is possible.
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Sounds good, I just wanted to make sure you really wanted 35 degrees at idle.
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I had fun doing it, learned a ton, got to use some actual machine shop tools, learned about some about some other cars, and got some hands on experience, good quality time working "on" my car
That is awesome, I love reading stories like this. Instead of the whiny stories that someone can't find a widget and don't know what to do about it. Go to the lathe or mill and make it, thats what it is all about. Helps make you appreciate every part that is on the car.
, I have one on my talon and then ball slipped by the spring and shut the output side permanently, had to take it apart and put the ball back in the correct place. I kept adjusting and adjusting and guess what, always too much boost, until I fixed the ball. Verify the ball is working correctly like the others say and use a compressor or something.
Replacement DB37 cable
in MegaSquirt
Posted
here is the text from the manual: