mobythevan

You can do it easier than that by just running one 6 post coil and it fires at every TDC. If that is what you want. Be sure to read the thread by braap about EDIS. Look in the must read sticky for the link

yeah, no problem, I just always think in opamps.

This was the email I got from Jerry at DIYautotune: You can use either analog output from the LC-1, use a 470 ohm ¼ watt resistor inline with this output, and connect the other end of the resistor to the o2 input on the MegaSquirt. This resistor will limit the current the MS can draw from the LC-1 which can overdraw the LC-1’s DAC and cause problems.

Here is a circuit to get you started, but you need to determine 3 things now, 1. Amplitude of the input sine wave from the magnetic sensor to ensure that a gain of 5 gives you a large enough amplitude for the second stage level detector so it is easy to size your resistors. If you need a different gain let me know and I'll put up the equation. 2. You then need to select Vref, R, and nR to pick a mid crossover point in your sine wave and however much hysteresis you want to accomplish the debouncing. 3. Depending on the rate of triggers from that wheel at your maximum rpm, make sure you do not exceed the slew rate of the 741 opamp, otherwise pick a faster slew rate opamp. This one will output a 0-5v signal at a 10us edge rate. I would think that would be fast enough. I would start with this and measure the magnetic sensor sine wave from the sensor directly, then from the output of the first stage and make sure it is amplified by 5, then pick values for the second stage and measure the final output to make sure it is a useable TTL type signal. It won't hurt my feelings if you do this a different way, but you will never regret becoming more familiar with opamps. you can view a larger image in my photo album.

Interesting, thanks for the heads up.

If I was setting that up I would use an opamp circuit to prepare the signal before running a ttl counter or processor counter, not sure if you are using discrete ttl parts or some kind of micro-controller for the counter. I love op amps and since they say it is a magnetic pickup (not optical which could be made into a ttl signal to start with) that is what I would suggest. I didn't dig on there site to see if they have an electrical specs on the sensor output, so just run an opamp as a threshold detector with adjustable hysteresis at the crossover point and run it on 0v and +5v so its output will be ttl compatible. You may have to hunt around for a stable threshold for that sensor, but then it would be set. Then the opamp can serve the purpose of debouncing the trigger and converting to +5volts. If you like this idea but haven't worked with opamps much let me know and I can try to put something together for a schematic and part numbers, these are very cheap, like an LM311 and supporting parts. Its just my initial thought. Opamps will be the base for all kinds of neat car circuits to condition input signals before passing them to an ECU, like knock sensor, speed sensor, vehicle weight sensors (load cells), accelerometers, thermocouples, etc, etc. I have thought a few times about having load cells on the car to have accurate weight at any time , my dad drove a semi that was set up that way, really neat when it was being loaded. Now I sound like Tony D, Tony where are you, ha ha

So did you crack a piston or what? You better have that 470 ohm resistor in there

Just to add what I have read... I followed a lengthy thread on turbomustang IIRC over the last few months where a guy bought an SS T70 turbo and it worked really good for him. So it seems to be a gamble.

That sucks.

If you do not see any rpm in the main window gauge then you will not fire any spark. If you do not have the relay board then you just use the IDL pin straight off the DB37 connector. You still need a pullup resistor on the IDL wire, but if you don't see any cranking rpm you have have to fix that first. Do you have a pullup resistor on the tach input wire from the 81 CAS?

No problem, to tell you the truth I am not sure how the auto dwell of the 4 pin module works, but I'm sure James on the MSnS site could explain it. I am actually running with dwell control in the MSnS unit. I just know that the 4 pin GM module does provide an auto dwell (which must be tailored to V8 rpm range 0-4500 and GM HEI coil) and the 7/8 pin GM modules do not have any dwell control. Good luck on your setup, sounds like fun.

That is fine, I'm not saying your a dummy or anything for wanting to set up your own power transistors. Since you didn't mention 8 coils, one $12 GM module would have worked nice. If you are running coil on plug are you going to use 4 triggers from MS and fire two transistors at a time, since 4 ignition triggers seems to be the limit? I think we are going to use four EDIS 4 post coils on our 2004 HEMI because it has 16 plugs. There are plenty of circuits on the net for the L293D stepper controller, so that should work fine.

Under the code config options you need to select what type of ignition you want to run. Everything is turned off.

So we got the LC-1 installed in his H-pipe, programmed analog output 1 to be 0-5volts and 10-20AFR. He is running MSnS_Extra024s9 code. Went into the .ini file and selected LC-1. Also changed the gauge settings in megatune so we had an AFR gauge in the main window and the VE tuning window. Worked great, got him tuned up, but didn't have time to turn on the AFR target tables. Have to save that for another day when we upgrade him to 029i code. BTW, we added the 470 ohm current limiting resistor in line as recommend by Jerry at DIYautotune. All went good except we didn't read the instructions and didn't put the terminator plug on the LC-1 so we couldn't get the laptop to connect. Hoping to get megasquirt and the LC-1 on my Talon next weekend. Then I'll get the 3 digit AFR meter built for the dash.

That is where the GM module is pretty nice because it gives you the power transistor and built in dwell control on the 4 pin module for ~$12.

Yes, you can use the ignitor on the car, or the gm module to fire a coil. Just make sure with version 2.2 board that you use some kind of module/ignitor, as it cannot fire the coil directly like the version 3.0 board. If you use the ignitor I don't know how you hook it up, you'll have to ask one of the other guys. There were some good threads explaining how to attach the pullup resistors. Let me know if you can't find anything.

The sticky instructions are for version 2.2 board, I was running version 3 code back then (magnus stuff I believe, not MSnS_extra). Things get confusing with all the different codes and board versions.

I'll drop by

I figured I was banned for my racy comments

You could have burned up the processor, diodes, or 5 volt regulator. Don't feel bad, my friend burned a processor up, he just ordered another chip and was back on the road. Before jumping to conclusions make sure you have 5volts at all the pins of the processor chip, the assembly guide tells you which ones. Also check voltage at the RS232 chip. Then put your multi meter in diode checking mode and check all the diodes on the board(remember the didode D8 may be shorted because the assembly guide tells you to build it that way), won't take very long. If your lucky you only burned up the 5 volt regulator and/or a couple diodes. If diodes are good and 5 volts at the processor socket is good, then lean towards a new processor chip.

what am I missing here? It loads up fine, but won't let me log in.

I almost fell out of my chair laughing when that happened, especially after reading those lines first That is where I want to head with my 4g63, in the 30psi range

still doesn't top the datsun F10 with coffee can ground effects and wooden spoiler, but I think it was made as a joke, maybe not http://www.jalopnik.com/cars/novelties/what-cans-one-modded-datsun-f10-163375.php http://www.doubleviking.com/?p=6135