mobythevan

For you guys that are following my neighbor dispute you probably rememeber that the restraining order part went to mediation at the end of October last year and an agreement was signed by both sides and it was wrapped up. However, the neighbors still had the harassment ticket they got issued on me and today is finally the pre-trial for that. It was referred to mediation but she refused to go. So, happy valentines day and I'm off to see if a plea bargain is given to me by the prosecutor. I am 99.9% sure that if I plead guilty to anything I will receive a lawsuit from here for missed work, attorneys fees from the restraining hearings, etc. If I go to trial I risk 6 months minimum jail time if found guilty. That is a pretty big risk for me to take, but sometimes you have to stand up for yourself. All I can do is issue a counter claim if she sues me and keep moving along.

I was running 11.0:1 AFRs in boost, but I didn't care if I lost some power to be a little safer. Seemed to run real good to me.

if you don't want to read the whole article here was the bottom line:

oven vs microwave cassette vs CD analog vs digital camera carb vs EFI You can put EFI on a SBC for the same price as a new carb ($400) reasons to have a carb 1. You can bolt it on in 15 minutes and go (good if you don't understand EFI) 2. You race the car and don't care how it runs outside the race rpm band.(this is where most carb'd people are, I have to believe) IMO, if the car is a daily driver put EFI on it and you will be happier in the long run. Sometimes it sounds cool though when your carb is loading up, like you have a really lumpy cam.

and buy electrical solder with flux in it already, same goes for de-solder wick/braid, if you need that, get it with flux already on the braid.

I want to try zguys recommendations of the bleed hole and the o-ring for the ball to seal against. It may be a couple weeks before I get back to that, I have to check some other things out first on the car before adjusting the boost again.

OK, after spending several hours today messing with the MBC on the Talon I think I see one shortcoming to some of the MBC designs. Other people have undoubtedly noticed this but I haven't seen it discussed, and I know the poor operation bugs bastaad to death. The type I had on my datsun was the grainger type which had the threads for the adjustable part on the outside of the housing so the threads don't interfer with the springs movement. The type worked good for me, other than one time it got debris on the ball and one time the hose got pinched off. So in other words I was happy with the grainger type. The Talon came with an un-installed cheapo controller that the PO bought for his planned upgrades. So I installed a boost gauge today and installed this cheapo type which is not made like the grainger. It has a bolt that threads into the housing where the spring resides. Undoubtedly the threads will interfer with the spring. The spring is large enough in diamter to get caught and drag on the threads inside. After several hours of adjusting this thing I could not get consistent results. One time it would hold steady at 12psi, no spike. Then I would back it off 1 turn to lower the psi and it would spike to 14psi then settle at 12psi?? I gave up on it for now, but wondered if some of the varied reports on the MBCs out there can be correlated to the design of threads inside the housing vs. threads outside?? I dunno

Its also a V4

in this case it was a co-worker that wanted to sell the car and knew I liked to work on turbo cars.

Got the new commuter car running last night and drove it in today. It had the usual bent valves, slipped timing belt. So I had the head rebuilt and replaced ALL the timing belt components. It seems to be running good now and everything on the car works. Pretty fun for $900 + $650 in repairs. I also noticed it has limited slip AWD. Now I need to get the exhaust swapped and the new IC mounted.

No, the stock injectors are smaller than that, I don't remember exactly what they are. The wideband will move around a little. At idle I would see it hitting like 13.1 then up to 13.6 or 7 then in the middle some where. You want it to update as fast as possible. The idea being that the ecu uses the fast update rate to correct fuel input if the ecu supports closed loop wideband operation. To get started tune for like 13:1 at idle, 14:1 at light throttle and 12:1 under load. If your cruising at 55mph it should read around 14:1 Then you floor it, it should immediately go to 12:1 and stay there until you back off the throttle.

Membership at World Gym? I had one that got stuck on my BW T5, cheater pipe took care of it once I got everything aligned to fit under the car, then pipe only moved a couple inches, but it was enough to break it loose.

Is that "A" painted in there on the original post?

How is he measuring that?

With aftermarket pistons, the deck clearance may be more, he would really have to give precise measurements for the head gasket thickness, head gasket bore and piston to deck, but 9-9.5 is going to be real close I'd say.

I get 9.17 static CR using 4.03 bore 3.75 stroke 70cc head 12cc dish .025 piston to deck .040 head gasket thickness 4.100 head gasket bore

that is too much

the rule of thumb: torque heavy engines are fun to drive on the street, daily drivers

I didn't know until after a couple weeks that I had become part of the most hated car group on the planet. I bet vanners didn't get this much flak back in the day, well maybe they did.

I don't know if fuel runs down the pipe with this hooked up wrong, but the most obvious is the cranking enrichment wire to the ECU gets connected to constant 12 volts and the things puts way too much fuel in. That wire is only suppose to get 12 volts during cranking, not running. That may not be it, but I wired that wrong on my first swap and will never forget it. I believe that is the yellow wire in PLUG #2 labeled as the "start signal" in the 280zx turbo swap wiring guide.

assuming no detonation like he said, I wouldn't expect the ring lands to go first. These theoretical threads are fun anyway.

I remember reading threads about the crankshaft breaking, but that is the only blow up stuff I remember reading on the forum in 3 years. See if somebody who broke a crankshaft turns up in this thread.

Let me re-phrase: What do the actual parts of the dual pickup look like? Does it have a slotted wheel or does it have a metal star in the center that spins or a flux capacitor.

I used it with water running through it and had good luck tuning cold starts.

what is the z31 dual pickup wheel since you brought it up. If it is a slotted wheel then the system is optical and will work easily.